Air

iTrader: (12)

Ok i am planning on getting a wideband soon, but in the mean time i wanted to hook up a narrowband i had

so i got a crappy old o2 sensor (works though) and spliced into the purple wire on it, ran that wire to the back of the gauge

also got electricity off of the gauge fuse in the fuse box (no dimmer for the AF gauge, im gonna need to know how to make the dimmer work when i get my other gauges)

grounded to a screw somewhere under the dash.


When i first crank up and idle, the light chills at stoich

then afterahwile, it sinks down to lean and then just disappears.

when you really get on the gas, it shoots up too rich (in conjunciton w/ the tach almost) then goes back down to when you let off

so,

A. what did i hook up wrong to make screw up like that
and

B. where is the wire i tap so i can have the dimmer work for a oil temp and fuel press gauge

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

sounds like the usual useless narrowband gauge activity. Mine bounced around like that too except at WOT. Then it went rich.
So did you mount another O2 sensor to run the gauge off of???? Im alittle confused how you set things up.

As for the dimmer wire...any wire that goes to a dash light...might be grey...thats what they were in older gms. It will have around 12v...and will drop with the dimmer switch.

Justin

Air

iTrader: (12)

yeah i have a extra o2 bung for the wideband thats coming, but for now i just put it in an exisitn o2 hole so i didnt have to run the other wires (that i dont know what they do) for it.. so i just spliced the purple wire of the rear 02 for the passenger bank. (i odnt have cats)

it seems to work perfect when i first start it up, but after awhile it just acts stupid. I dunno what is goin on

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

It seems to act perfect during intial stat up because the O2 sensor isnt warm enough to do anything. Once it warms up, its voltage flips back and forth.

For instance. I have a scan gauge in my car that shows O2 voltages for both banks. When I first fire it up, they both say 450mV. After a short time they start moving around... then soon they are gonig all over the place. Anywhere from around 100mV up to 800something. Thats why those narrowband gauges are more of a light show than anything else. It works to show full rich or lean...thats about it. Someone correct me but when the O2 shows stoich...the voltage is like 450mV. Hence the dead in the middle of the gauge during start up.

Im waiting on the Autometer Phantom series wideband gauge to be ready for purchase so I can use the wideband to tune. I have a narrowband now that I was using with my 305 TPI motor (single wire o2 sensor). I havent hooked it up to the LS1 set up yet. Just figured its a waste of time.

Justin

v8hunter

iTrader: (2)

I have learned a bit about how the narrow band sensors are supposed to work from tuning my s/c truck. In general normal driving (not wide open throttle) your ecu is working on constantly maintaining about a 14.7 a/f ratio for best mileage. A narrow band sensor will bounce from rich to lean fairly quickly back and forth and back and forth about .1v to .9V during this time.

When you are at wide open throttle the voltage will go to a relatively constant reading like .8 to .9 volts (I can't remember exactly) and will be at about 13 a/f ratio.

Realistically for tuning...narrow band sensors are nearly worthless as they are not very accurate and a motor is worth too much money to tune this way. The next step up is tuning by using an EGT gauge, but still not nearly as good as a wide band. I use an innovate lm1 wideband (both truck & car) and I am pretty happy with it as it will tell you where you really are for a/f. This one is nice as you can move it from car to car as it gets power from your cigarette lighter.

I hope that I helped clear things up a little

Air

iTrader: (12)

ok yeah

i know narrowbands suck, liek i said im waiting on a widebadn and figured id plug this guy in while i waited

never realized they were this retarded