silverLS199

iTrader: (1)

i have 85k on mine and i dont know wuts in it (just bought it recently) if it doesnt have synthetic in it then wut shud i run in it

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I dont think it had a thing to do with the oil. A rod does not just break and go through the block upon initial startup just because of the weight of the oil.

ChocoTaco369

oil doesn't cause damage. it prevents damage. however, mobil 1 5W-30 water prevents damage much less than GC 0W-30 does. even if mobil 1 5W-30 protected 10% less - and trust me, the actual number is much higher - assuming all parameters equal, a 135K mobil 1 motor would look like a 150K GC 0W-30 motor. mobil 30 weights protect like ****. if you use it, i urge you to send your oil away for analysis, then run GC 0W-30 and send that oil away. you'll never touch mobil 1 30 weights again.
over time it does. if your motor is very high mileage, there's a decent chance it's going to throw a rod eventually, unless something else gets it first. using a better oil from the getgo would have helped prevent this. if you weren't using that water mobil 1 markets as oil, you could still have several thousand miles left on that bearing.

it's all speculation, but if you would have run a thicker, better oil since day one, it probably wouldn't have happened. it's too hard to play the blame game on what the actual cause was, but between the '98's crummy oil pump and using a mobil 1 30 weight oil, it likely happened before it should have.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Well each to his own then. Mine has 97k on it, I just highly doubt it had anything to do with oil. And had it just spun the bearing the rod probabnly would not have gone through the block. Keep in mind this happened right when i tuned the key in the morning, it was on no more than 2 seconds. I havent tore it apart yet, but I suspect rod bolt failure.

ChocoTaco369

well, do yourself a favor. replace all the bearings and swap out that oil pump. it seems like the 01-02 models don't throw bearings like the older 4th gens do...but maybe it's because they're not old enough yet? who knows. anyways, i'd swap the oil pump and switch to a better oil, like GC 0W-30 or mobil 1 5W-40. after that, you should be in business for a long time.

Rob98LS1

iTrader: (5)

160k hard driven miles in my '98, using that water M1 10W 30 and runs like new. what shitty oil if you ask me.

brink

I use M1 5w-30.. been using it since i bought the car.. it has a piston slap.. but it had it before i put the mobile 1 in there anyways.. it starts every morning and rans low 13s.. im happy with my mobile 1!

the car only has 20k miles by the way

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

Mobil 1 5W-30 here. just turned 50K miles today. No problems burning oil here. Oil/FIlter changes after 4-6K miles depending on how it looks.

BTW it sees track use almost daily lol...if you added it all up probably a whole 6-8K of those miles were at WOT..

Although, there is mild piston slap the first 2-3 minutes after a cold start...but that was there since the car was brand new...

BLKWS.6

BS. M1 10-30 has a CST at 100*C of 10.7
Castrol 10-30 is only 10.1 M1 is no thinner and no thicker than any other 10-30 oil on the market.

BLKWS.6

LS6 oil pump, better block design, and to a lesser extent, better rod bolts play a big roll.

DarthQuaider

Yeah well I heard French 10w30 is way thicker than that German bullshit, and African oil is even better if you can manage to get your hands on it.

DarthQuaider

What is all this **** about going and finding european oil???? If you want thicker oil then buy thicker oil, why does it have to be from europe? Hell just pour some molasses in the bitch, that'll protect it.

BLKWS.6

Sigh* dammit I hate living in shreveport.


Okay...go check out the CST (measure of thickness) of German Castrol, which is a european formula, because it was created to meet the standards in Porsches, ect. ect. and you will find it is thicker than most oils that are not "european formula". Even though they have the same "weight" on the bottle.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I think my rod bolts broke on cyl#7, the hole is low on the block like they came undone and the bottom part of the rod went through the block. The oil PSI was plenty high too, as it always is in my car. I cant think of what else that could have happened except breaking a rod bolt.

00fxd

Brad, Keep us posted on whet you find. Crappy deal. Who needs that $#!t. You don't even get to have a "Blew up racing a Ferrari story". Oh well you wanted to go through that engine anyway....

Rob98LS1

iTrader: (5)

haha that's always a good way of looking at it... upgrade time baby.

BigDaddyZ28

For a period of time back when they were still making our camaros, Castrol and GM had a special offer available at the time of purchase...

If you paid a little extra $$$ to swap out your oils/fluids with Castrol products and then continued to use Castrol products, GM and Castrol would warranty the powertrain for 100k miles. The offer was only available at the dealer at the time of purchase and they did NOT specify that it had to be 'German' Castrol either...

I use the Non-German, Castrol Syntec since day 1 and have had NO issues at all that were related to lack of proper lubrication...

A search will give more info about this.

1998z28ss

I get slightly annoyed with all this talk about oils. Every thread I read makes me agree with my father more and more, oil is oil is oil is oil. How could mobile sell an oil advertised as a "30 weight" if it truely isnt a 30 weight. I think this would be quite the issue if it was true. But I have always wondered why they say "Mobile 1 only" for our motors in the owners manual and on the oil fill. My dad says its because the synthetic is thinner so it helps keep mileage up, the same thing with running ATF in the t-56 versus gear oil, economy.

TransAminal

Its an old myth that all oil is the same. If you understand anything about lubrication and wear properties, you would never make such an inncaccurate and generalized statement.

Synthetic provides a whole range of benefits over conventional oil, anyone who argues otherwise is misinformed. Synthetic has better lubricating properties, meaning less friction in the motor as well as less wear. It also has more additives, lasts longer, and itsn't affected by heat as much as regular oil. If you ran 2 engines to 200K miles, one with synthetic oil and one with dino oil, and tore them down at the end, the one with synthetic would have considerably less internal wear, deposits, and it would also be much cleaner. Those are substantial benefits, not just to aide in "economy".

Many manufacturers list synthetic oil only because they don't want people putting garbage WalMart oil in their precision machined, close tolerance engines and then having to pay for warranty repairs. Performance vehicles are meant to be driven hard, thats why you need a high performance oil, which is why they require synthetic. It just makes sense, some people are just too ignorant and stubborn to accept that.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

I Pray my 98 doesn't spin a bearing or throw a rod. Hell it barely has any piston slap at almost 124K. But I beat the **** out of it and it will probaly happen at some point... I'm more worried about my stock trans at 124K.