gonefishn1212

why didnt you buy a hard top to begin with?

vtirocz

If any sponsors would do a t-top to hardtop conversion, could you please provide a ballpark quote?

Thanks,
Jim

greysteel_M6

iTrader: (5)

hardtops just have a cover, sheet metal I'm assuming that's spot welded over the t-top frame. IMO would be a simple conversion. Just find a wrecked hardtop fbody, take off the liner and drill out the spot welds, then transplant it onto the other car. Don't know why you would want to though t-tops are pimpin.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

because he wants structrual rigidity over "pimpin".

300bhp/ton

I seriously doubt the hard top offers any noticable difference for street use. If its an all out circuit racer with a stripped interior, 600bhp and massive slicks on each corner then maybe.

If yousimply want better handling buy a Lotus Elise.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i dont think its neccessiarly handling that is in question here its the rigidity of the body. i have a buddy that has a 2001 Z with t-tops and he has dimples right behind the sail pannel on the quarter where the hatch and sail pannel meet. and he just has minor bolt ons. i have roughly the same mods with a hard top and relitivily same mileage as him on my car and 0 diples. also his interior squeeks and rattles more than mine. when he gets on it you can hear the t-tops squeeking a little.

vtirocz

BWW3588 is right. I'm looking to improve the rigidity (especially over rough roads). I think driving over very rough roads or hitting a large pothole puts more stress and deflection on the frame than just launching from a stop or road racing on a smooth course. I don't hear any creaks when launching at the track, but I definitely here creaks over large bumps in the road.

The t-top cars feels like it's going to fall apart when driving on rough roads. I think that the hardtop car, with 2 structural members on each side of the roof, would help significantly... the cross section of these members actually looks very stiff and it's welded in place. However, I never rode in a hardtop 4th gen F-body to compare.

Thanks,
Jim

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

the only squeeks i have comes from the passengers seat. some how where the back meets the ***, its loose, and when no one is sitting there it squeeks and drives me nuts. other than that its quiet.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

What are you doing that warrants needing that extra hair of torsional stability? Hardtop isnt gonna make that big a difference and its gonna cost you an arm and a let to convert it. I would find a better way to stiffen the car up if i were you.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i would trade tops with vtirocz if a reputiable shop could be found to do it.

vtirocz

This is a daily driver car that I occasionally take drag racing (maybe twice per summer). However, even with BMR weld-in SFCs you can feel 1mm or so (my estimate) of deflection between the t-top/roof gap and t-top/windshield pillar gap. Those two braces on hardtops would basically eliminate this deflection, thus significantly increasing torsional stiffness. I just want the car to feel more solid when going over rough pavement and railroad tracks. I guess that's just personal preference. Also, I don't think it would cost that much to do if I could get all of the parts from another car.

bww3588: I would trade my t-tops, etc for your roof + 2 structural beams. From the write-ups I've seen, it does not look that hard to convert from hard-top to t-tops. Not sure how much a shop would charge to do this though.


Has anyone else on LS1TECH done a t-top to hardtop conversion?

Thanks,
Jim

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i wouldnt know. there is a write up on how to do a HT to TT conversion. i imagine it would be the reverse. ill try to find the thread. from there it would be a matter of finding a body shop to do the swap. your roof is black right? vtirocz?

vtirocz

bww3588,
Yes, my roof is black (white car w/ black roof). I need to do a little more research on this, but definitely very interested in the conversion. Let me know if you hear of any body shops (located in the mid-west) that would do the conversion.

Thanks,
Jim

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i live in chillicothe, ohio so i was thinking a shop somewhere either in ohio or indiana. id prefer to find someone who has done it before. i have to worry about them leaking. i want to find a good shop that can do it right so they dont leak like a sieve. i wouldnt mind driving to indy as long as the shop is reputable. ill check with some bodyshops around here to see if they can do it. if you want to do the same for over there that would be cool. what color is your interior? im assuming black since you have a white car.

SladeX

I'd get subframes before changing a t-top car to hardtop. It's just not that much of an improvement in rigidity. I test drove a lot of 4th gen f-bodies, some t's some hardtop and while I ended up with a hardtop, I noticed no difference in the little "creaks" and groans that occur going slowly over uneven surfaces like traintracks etc.

Once you stiffen up the suspension with some good shocks, I'd invest in subframes next as the creaks tend to get worse after that.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

both of us already have SFC's. i just want t-tops and he wants a hardtop.

vtirocz

SladeX: You're saying hardtop cars would 'creek' over rough roads the same as t-top cars? As far as the creak I sometimes hear, I actually haven't verified 100% that it's not a suspension bushing that's making the noise, or if it's a dash creak. The dash materials GM used are so cheap that even the slightest chassis deflection causes some mild creak noises.

BWW3588: I just sent a reply to your PM. Let me know if you find a ballpark quote for the conversion.


Is there anyone in the Indianapolis area that has a hardtop 4th gen F-body I could ride in to make sure I want to go through with the t-top to hardtop conversion? I would be very unhappy if I went through all of this work and there is no noticeable difference in chassis rigidity + I loose the t-tops.

Thanks,
Jim

DrEvyl

iTrader: (5)

Here's another vote from someone that owns both a t-top car and a hardtop car that says it's not worth it. Just put SFC's on the car and call it good. The bars that connect the A-pillar to the sail panel are tack welded in two tiny little spots, and offer very little improvement in rigidity. SFCs or a cage will offer you much more of a benefit.