ChocoTaco369

don't be jealous

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

HAHAHA

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

You can always use a forged bottom end, but if you are unsure of going FI in the future don't pull the trigger on it just yet. Your compression will rely on your choice.

Marky Mark

Well I'm looking for the FI either as my first mod. Or sooner or later after...I looked around today for a 93 octane pump, and I found out about a 30 - 45 mile drive away. So that's kinda of a downer for me. But hopefully I'll be getting a place down there after school for the Art Center. But only time will tell.

Well the SS I'm looking at has about 50,000 miles, and the only aftermarket parts are an SLP lid. So as of now I'm still deciding between the N/A or FI setup, plus SLP LM's.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Narrow it down, and let us know.

300bhp/ton

Well n/a and FI or total opporsits and require you to mod in different ways. Changing route part way will be costly

If you are in CA my opinion is FI is the only way. Due to the restrictions impossed on you an n/a setup will be very limiting.

I'd say get Fbody, get a nice catback (SLP LM is GREAT but loud. And with cats has zero rasp). If auto get a decent stall. Then get some CARB legal shorty headers and hi-flow cats then slap a Procharger on there and up the boost. 7psi should be fine on stock internals and give over 450rwhp.

You can also port your TB for free (see sig) and if it's a pre 2001 car get a Ls6 intake manifold.

If you want more power all you need to do is buy forged pistons/con rods and up the boost and tune accordingly.

Some decent S2 or S3 Lq9 heads would make a great addition for higher boost setups and you could even swap the cam for a blower cam and still be emissions legal.

There's no real reason a boosted 346ci LS1 can't make over 650rwhp on 91 octane and still be street/emissions legal in CA.

SOM02WS6

91 vs 93 really isnt that big of a deal. I say get the car and learn how to drive it before you go nuts making all this power you dont know how to use........

Marky Mark

I'm thinking of going the route for FI. But I'm deciding if I should get the S/C right of the get go with SLP LM's, and an SLP lid? Or just go out and get an N/A setup since my car is going to be stock when I pick it up. LS6 intake manifolds only fit on pre 2001's?

ChocoTaco369

300bhp/ton

You really should do the exhaust first. This is because it reduces back pressure and allows exhaust gases to escape faster. With boost this is very important.

Example:

Stock LS1 with 7psi if you add a decent exhaust and shorty headers your boost will drop due to less back pressure (the air flow cfm will be the same but pressure won't) and you'll make more power more safley.

However what you can then do is re-pulley the blower back up to 7psi this will increase the cfm flow rate and produce even more power again.

When you order you supercharger you tell them the mods you have and they ensure you get the correct pulley for your setup.

The lid and several other mods are a waste of money if you plan on FI as they are not compatiable. This is why it's key to decide which route to go as you can seriously waste a lot of money on n/a which simply can not be used on FI.

Get it drive it like it.

Add full exhaust (catback, hi flow cats, mid pipe and headers).
Do any suspension/chassis mods you like
Ls6 intake and ported TB
Stall if auto
Gears (optional) but be warned with a manual you will increase the risk of breaking the rear 10 bolt axle

Supercharger kit and tune.

There really is no decision, you can do a full exhaust including all the bits for around $400 if you wanted where as a complete supercharger kit is going to be nearer $4000. Do the supporting mods first and get the motor in a state to add the blower. Only worry about forged internals if you are wanting to run more than 7psi and are aiming for over 500rwhp.

98-00 Fbody's have Ls1 intake STOCK
01-02 Fbody's have LS6 intake STOCK

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

We really can't tell you anymore than we already have in the last 40 posts.

Marky Mark

So go with the supporting mods first? Well I know this is kinda off topic, but how does the Cobra run off the S/C without any supporting mods or a new rear end? Or is it because its only pumping out roughly 390 HP? And the my SS would need supporting mods, and a new rear end to with stand the 480HP+ with the S/C?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Those cobra's are just a pulley swap away from being 460rwhp.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

That cobra also has an 8.8 rear. Much more forgiving on the power.

Marky Mark

Oh, so the cobras are pretty much built up for that much power out of the box. Alright thanks...

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Why do you think that they are damn near 40k? haha

Good supercharger w/ a warranty = bad ***!

Rede

iTrader: (2)

I don't meen to be thread , but if you look at the January (correct me if I'm wrong) issue of GM High Tech Performance, you'll see Mighty Mouse's 9 second Formula running a single turbo and belting out 1000whp.

And he's using a 12 bolt too incase there's still a fued about 12 bolt being< 9"

I don't know if you have your heart set on a s/c setup, or just any kind of forced induction...


I'm also not sure if someone clairified it or not, but cali is uber strict on emmision laws. I think that's what was ment about the 50 states legal s/c setup.

However... if sticking with a s/c setup, could he not use someting like a Preditor programer with two different tunes?
One for 91 octane at low psi for DDing... and a second tune saved for hitting the track on c12 or whatever your flavour in the states.

A guy here at our local track does it on his '06 Mustang GT.
He's using a Saleen brand (no its not from a saleen mustang ) s/c with smaller pully. He's running 600whp with the rest of engine being completely stock.
Runs LOW 12's and even pulled off a 11.99 on low profile Z-rated rubber He drives an hour and 20 minutes to the track, pops the trunk and pulls out his 5 gallon jug of 100 octane. Dumps some into the tank, programs the car and in less than 10 minutes he's ready to tear it up.

Marky Mark

Oh, so the cobras are pretty much built up for that much power out of the box. Alright thanks...

300bhp/ton

Gonna assume by Cobra you mean 2003/4 Terminator?

And yes they can make more power for less mods. You'll want to upgrade the IRS with at least a brace, new shocks/springs wouldn't go a miss and better brakes. But thats standard on any car you want to make quicker.

The Cobra uses a T56 6 speed manaual the same as in 6 speed Fbody's basically. For serious drag racing most swap the IRS for a solid rear.

The down side is the Cobra will cost more to buy. So you need to look at the overall picture.

Personally I really like the Cobra and would have no second thoughts about owning one.

Induction, exhaust and pulley + tune will make it similar to a reasonable h/c Fbody in performance/power. Add a ported blower and its a bit a head.

You can then go for a twin screw blower swap (Whipple or Kennebell) but you'll need to look at fueling and the $$$$ will start and rack up.

The 4.6 DOHC motor in the Cobra, while massive on the outside is actually a very good engine and due to being multivalve can make the best part of 700HP for street use with a decent blower.

ultimatley the displacement advantage of the Ls1 means it can in theory produce more HP, but being OHV 2v also means it's specific output isn't as good and its amazing how close the 4.6 can run it.

But if money is no problem then the Ls1 can be increased to 402, 427ci or bigger.

In CA I;m sure the Cobra is the easier car to make faster and stay legal. But depending on the age of the Fbody you could easily buy one and mod to over 500rwhp for less money than the purchase price of the Cobra.

Marky Mark

Yeah, I would love to get the cobra, but the manual just isn't for me. Can't do a swap to auto? Can I? But as of now I found a good 2002 camaro ss going for $18,550 with roughly 50.000 miles.