What does it take (mods and $$) to build a RELIABLE mid 10-second LS1?
02-26-2007 | 11:24 PM
#41
Honestly, unless you wanna rely completely on a 1.5 sec 60" every time, you're looking at around $20+K to get everything you need to run a truely reliable 10sec car that will be truely streetable...
02-27-2007 | 07:14 AM
#42
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 1
From: Sandwich, IL
IMO cheap us under 10K. So all these 15K, 20K, 25K+ setups are not cheap. While my list was under 20K worth of parts there is considerable labor fees that bring my particular project to 20K. Maybe a little more. I'm hoping for a reliable 10 second car. By reliable I mean the motor can handle several seasons while the transmission lasts 2-3 with nothing but a refresh every spring.
We'll see how it goes. If I start having too much tranny problems then I'll be swapping to a 4L80E or TH400 which means even more $$$
We'll see how it goes. If I start having too much tranny problems then I'll be swapping to a 4L80E or TH400 which means even more $$$
02-27-2007 | 04:32 PM
#43
Here's the fastest Cam-only thread. Any questions and I think PM'ing these guys is where you'll find the best advice. These care are def making the most out of the least.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/187330-fastest-cam-only-cars-list.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/187330-fastest-cam-only-cars-list.html
03-01-2007 | 09:45 PM
#45
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 2
From: loudoun county,va
Boss man you proved yourself wronge with your own post...
Read the title of this thread.
RELIABLE 10 Second car.
4l60e in a 10 sec daily driver = not reliable
10 bolt in a 10 sec daily driver = just plain dumb...
They kind of converters that are built for 10's cost $1000 all by themselves.
The right parts to build a reliable 10 sec daily driver will be more then 20,000 bucks
Not a sermon, just a thought...
Read the title of this thread.
RELIABLE 10 Second car.
4l60e in a 10 sec daily driver = not reliable
10 bolt in a 10 sec daily driver = just plain dumb...
They kind of converters that are built for 10's cost $1000 all by themselves.
The right parts to build a reliable 10 sec daily driver will be more then 20,000 bucks
Not a sermon, just a thought...
Originally Posted by darrensls1
This is the only thing you posted that I disagree with. With an auto the parts can be below 20K. Here's how:
LME 408 Iron shortblock capable of 700 to the wheels $4300 shipped.
ETP 240 heads $2500
gaskets & head bolts $100
Timing chain $100
fast 90/90 combo $1100
Cam $450
SLP oil pump $160
Fuel pump $110
42# injectors $300
Underdrive pulley $200
Belts $50
Lid $100
Pacesetter LT headers & ORY $500
Hooker catback $300
NX 150 wetkit + safety devices $1,000
So far the total is $11,270. Now lets look at suspension:
LCA $120
Panhard bar $130
SFC $250
Torque arm $330
STB $100
That brings the new total to $12,200. Now lets look at the Transmission:
Performabuilt level 3 with a 3500 stall & 24K tranny cooler $3000.
There are three reasons I would specifically buy this transmission. One is you get the converter at a good price. Two is you get a one year warranty. And three is because you do NOT send them a core.
Now the total is $15,200. But we have to add $400 for a dyno tune as well as $300 for a pair of drag radials. That brings the new total to $15,900.
Almost done. If you're not going to drag race at a 1/4 mile track then your GTG. If you are then we need some safety devices to run 10's legally.
6 point roll bar $300.
Pair of quality racing seats $300
Helmet $100
5 point harness $70
Fire Jacket $60
Fire extinguisher $60
DSL $100
That should be everything to allow you to run as quick as 10.00 and brings the new parts total to $16,890.
Now I know what you're thinking. 10 bolt is a goner. Maybe and maybe not. The key here is to preload the drivetrain prior to launching and use drag radials. Even a full weight car with 1.6 60's can hit 10's on spray with this setup. Now the trick to being streetable is all in the cam and stall. 3500 stall + TSP 233/239 or maybe a custom cam in the 236/240 range could get the job done for street/strip performance and driveability.
You might also be thinking that the 4L60E will fail. If you don't spray through the shifts and keep the rev limiter at 6500 (or less) it should handle 10's just fine. Cablebandit went into high 9's on his 4L60E awhile back.
So we were at about 16K in parts under the assumption that you can keep the 10 bolt alive. But look at what we did in the process. We built a motor from the ground up. We also took out a working 4L60E and replaced it with a built one. You now have a working LS1 longblock motor and a working 4L60E transmission (with a stock converter) sitting around collecting dust. Ebay or bust
I figure you could sell both for about $2000 which you can deduct from the parts total (making it $14,890) or you can put it towards installation fees on whatever you can't install yourself.
LME 408 Iron shortblock capable of 700 to the wheels $4300 shipped.
ETP 240 heads $2500
gaskets & head bolts $100
Timing chain $100
fast 90/90 combo $1100
Cam $450
SLP oil pump $160
Fuel pump $110
42# injectors $300
Underdrive pulley $200
Belts $50
Lid $100
Pacesetter LT headers & ORY $500
Hooker catback $300
NX 150 wetkit + safety devices $1,000
So far the total is $11,270. Now lets look at suspension:
LCA $120
Panhard bar $130
SFC $250
Torque arm $330
STB $100
That brings the new total to $12,200. Now lets look at the Transmission:
Performabuilt level 3 with a 3500 stall & 24K tranny cooler $3000.
There are three reasons I would specifically buy this transmission. One is you get the converter at a good price. Two is you get a one year warranty. And three is because you do NOT send them a core.
Now the total is $15,200. But we have to add $400 for a dyno tune as well as $300 for a pair of drag radials. That brings the new total to $15,900.
Almost done. If you're not going to drag race at a 1/4 mile track then your GTG. If you are then we need some safety devices to run 10's legally.
6 point roll bar $300.
Pair of quality racing seats $300
Helmet $100
5 point harness $70
Fire Jacket $60
Fire extinguisher $60
DSL $100
That should be everything to allow you to run as quick as 10.00 and brings the new parts total to $16,890.
Now I know what you're thinking. 10 bolt is a goner. Maybe and maybe not. The key here is to preload the drivetrain prior to launching and use drag radials. Even a full weight car with 1.6 60's can hit 10's on spray with this setup. Now the trick to being streetable is all in the cam and stall. 3500 stall + TSP 233/239 or maybe a custom cam in the 236/240 range could get the job done for street/strip performance and driveability.
You might also be thinking that the 4L60E will fail. If you don't spray through the shifts and keep the rev limiter at 6500 (or less) it should handle 10's just fine. Cablebandit went into high 9's on his 4L60E awhile back.
So we were at about 16K in parts under the assumption that you can keep the 10 bolt alive. But look at what we did in the process. We built a motor from the ground up. We also took out a working 4L60E and replaced it with a built one. You now have a working LS1 longblock motor and a working 4L60E transmission (with a stock converter) sitting around collecting dust. Ebay or bust
I figure you could sell both for about $2000 which you can deduct from the parts total (making it $14,890) or you can put it towards installation fees on whatever you can't install yourself.
03-02-2007 | 01:16 AM
#46
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 2
From: Philly
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
4l60e in a 10 sec daily driver = not reliable
if the 4L60E is behind a blower with stock shift points, it's going to be even more reliable yet. the 4L60E's biggest enemy is RPM's, then heat, then power. keep the RPM's down, keep it cool, keep your fluid and filter fresh and your 4L60E will likely live, assume it's built right.
03-02-2007 | 05:28 AM
#47
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 1
From: Sandwich, IL
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Boss man you proved yourself wronge with your own post...
Read the title of this thread.
RELIABLE 10 Second car.
4l60e in a 10 sec daily driver = not reliable:
Read the title of this thread.
RELIABLE 10 Second car.
4l60e in a 10 sec daily driver = not reliable:
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
10 bolt in a 10 sec daily driver = just plain dumb...
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
They kind of converters that are built for 10's cost $1000 all by themselves
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
The right parts to build a reliable 10 sec daily driver will be more then 20,000 bucks
$16,890
-$500 (not buying performabuilts converter)
$16,390
+$1,000 (for brand X converter)
+ $2,000 (12 bolt)
$19,390
-$2,000 (proceeds from selling a working LS1 LB/4L60E combo)
$17,390
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Not a sermon, just a thought...
03-03-2007 | 08:46 PM
#48
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 2
From: loudoun county,va
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
i'm going to argue this. there are a lot of guys on this
site running a 4L60E with 10 second cars.
site running a 4L60E with 10 second cars.
ALOT? You sure about that?
Lemme ask 2 questions, you get answers to them and I'll call it a day.
1. How many times have they had that "reliable" trans rebuilt since they started running 10's? (they are automatically disqualified if they have only been 10's once on a perfect DA day. we are talking a true 10 sec car.)
2. How many are reliable DAILY DRIVERS? (not stripped to bare metal race cars.)
Originally Posted by darrensls1
Not true. Rossler, FLT, Performabuilt, RPM (I'm sure there are others but this was off the top of my head) can build stout 4L60E's. Can they handle 9's or faster reliably? No. But 10's is no problem because it's been done.
Every single trans company you have listed (and alot that you have not) have built transmissions for our glen bernie 9-10 sec club,
NONE of them have lasted more then a few passes... Most didn't make it doen the 1/4 the first time.
Originally Posted by darrensls1
In a M6 I agree. In an automatic I disagree. That would depend
on how the cars being launched. If the car sees track time and 60's are below
1.6 I would say it's a ticking time bomb and start saving now. If however the
60's are in the 1.6-1.8 range and you always preload the drivetrain before
launching then I say rock on baby!
on how the cars being launched. If the car sees track time and 60's are below
1.6 I would say it's a ticking time bomb and start saving now. If however the
60's are in the 1.6-1.8 range and you always preload the drivetrain before
launching then I say rock on baby!
Show me a 10 sec f-body that 60' is higher then 1.6 (better show 2 just to prove it)
I was cutting 1.5's back when I ran 11's....
Originally Posted by darrensls1
Absolutely not true. People have used TCI, Midwest, Fuddle
in 10 second cars before. Not to mention the fact that even a Vig3200 or
Yank SS3600 are under $1,000 and are commonly used in 10 second rides that run
built 4L60E's.
in 10 second cars before. Not to mention the fact that even a Vig3200 or
Yank SS3600 are under $1,000 and are commonly used in 10 second rides that run
built 4L60E's.
I dont know midwest and fuddle, havent had first hand with either so they are a ----.
Vig's and yanks.... Do me a favor sometime... call either of them and tell them you need a purpose built converter for a 10 sec car...
See how much they quote you... then add tax, and hit me back...
It can be but it does not have to be as I have shown. Even if you insist on the 12 bolt and a $1,000 converter we have:
$16,890
-$500 (not buying performabuilts converter)
$16,390
+$1,000 (for brand X converter)
+ $2,000 (12 bolt)
$19,390
-$2,000 (proceeds from selling a working LS1 LB/4L60E combo)
$17,390
$16,890
-$500 (not buying performabuilts converter)
$16,390
+$1,000 (for brand X converter)
+ $2,000 (12 bolt)
$19,390
-$2,000 (proceeds from selling a working LS1 LB/4L60E combo)
$17,390
Your still missing alot of stuff..
K-member / A arms - $1035.00
4 adjustable race shocks - $800
300 lb front springs to handle the added weight of the 408 - $100
Relocation brackets - $100
Drive shaft loop - $100
Drag race Sway Bar - $375
Serious Drive shaft - $300
Tuning (since when can you do all this with out tuning? ) - $400 (I'm being nice and not including dyno time)
wheels and tires to stick a 10 sec car to the track - 1500
Thats $4700 in **** that ANY 10 sec car should have that you completely forgot.
Thats $22,090 using the "budget" parts you listed...
Look ... I am not trying to be a dick here...
Like I said.. There is ALOT more to it then most people think about...
When you include the trial and error stuff over the last 5 years in my ws6, I have over $50,000
invested in it, and that does not include the 30,000 bucks it cost to buy the car new...
It will run tens... It sees the ocational local trip on the street... But even with what I have invested, I would never call it a RELIABLE 10 sec DAILY DRIVER...
Last edited by jaberwaki; 03-03-2007 at 08:54 PM.
03-04-2007 | 07:50 AM
#49
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 1
From: Sandwich, IL
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Show me a 9 sec car running a 4l60e. Show me one that doesnt rebuild it once every 2 months if not more.
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Every single trans company you have listed (and alot that you have not) have built transmissions for our glen bernie 9-10 sec club,
NONE of them have lasted more then a few passes... Most didn't make it doen the 1/4 the first time.
NONE of them have lasted more then a few passes... Most didn't make it doen the 1/4 the first time.
Note some in there are still running the 10 bolt too.
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Your painting yourself into a trap....
Show me a 10 sec f-body that 60' is higher then 1.6 (better show 2 just to prove it)
I was cutting 1.5's back when I ran 11's....
Show me a 10 sec f-body that 60' is higher then 1.6 (better show 2 just to prove it)
I was cutting 1.5's back when I ran 11's....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/etdb_slip.php?id=1909
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
TCI convertors have no trust from me... I have seen too many break in 11 sec cars.
I dont know midwest and fuddle, havent had first hand with either so they are a ----.
Vig's and yanks.... Do me a favor sometime... call either of them and tell them you need a purpose built converter for a 10 sec car...
See how much they quote you... then add tax, and hit me back...
I dont know midwest and fuddle, havent had first hand with either so they are a ----.
Vig's and yanks.... Do me a favor sometime... call either of them and tell them you need a purpose built converter for a 10 sec car...
See how much they quote you... then add tax, and hit me back...
http://www.converter.cc/converters/street/GM/1/main.htm
$675 and even with tax and shipping it would be less then 1K. But that's neither here nor there.
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
even if I gave you THAT much... (and I definatly do not agree with useing the cheapest parts you can scrape together...)
Your still missing alot of stuff...
Your still missing alot of stuff...
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
K-member / A arms - $1035.00
4 adjustable race shocks - $800
300 lb front springs to handle the added weight of the 408 - $100
Relocation brackets - $100
Drive shaft loop - $100
Drag race Sway Bar - $375
Serious Drive shaft - $300
Tuning (since when can you do all this with out tuning? ) - $400 (I'm being nice and not including dyno time)
wheels and tires to stick a 10 sec car to the track - 1500
4 adjustable race shocks - $800
300 lb front springs to handle the added weight of the 408 - $100
Relocation brackets - $100
Drive shaft loop - $100
Drag race Sway Bar - $375
Serious Drive shaft - $300
Tuning (since when can you do all this with out tuning? ) - $400 (I'm being nice and not including dyno time)
wheels and tires to stick a 10 sec car to the track - 1500
Originally Posted by darrensls1
But we have to add $400 for a dyno tune as well as $300 for a pair of drag radials.
DSL $100
DSL $100
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Thats $4700 in **** that ANY 10 sec car should have that you completely forgot.
Thats $22,090 using the "budget" parts you listed....
Thats $22,090 using the "budget" parts you listed....
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Look ... I am not trying to be a dick here...
Like I said.. There is ALOT more to it then most people think about...
When you include the trial and error stuff over the last 5 years in my ws6, I have over $50,000
invested in it, and that does not include the 30,000 bucks it cost to buy the car new...
It will run tens... It sees the ocational local trip on the street... But even with what I have invested, I would never call it a RELIABLE 10 sec DAILY DRIVER...
Like I said.. There is ALOT more to it then most people think about...
When you include the trial and error stuff over the last 5 years in my ws6, I have over $50,000
invested in it, and that does not include the 30,000 bucks it cost to buy the car new...
It will run tens... It sees the ocational local trip on the street... But even with what I have invested, I would never call it a RELIABLE 10 sec DAILY DRIVER...
But as in life there are no guarantees. My list (adding the 12 bolt to it) gives you enough power to run a high 10 on motor, enough streetability to be tolerable in traffic and addresses the weak links in the transmission & suspension that need to be addressed for a high 10 second car.And for the record I am not trying to be a dick either. We just have a difference of opinion and will have to agree to disagree.
Last edited by darrensls1; 03-04-2007 at 08:09 AM.
03-04-2007 | 03:33 PM
#50
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 2
From: loudoun county,va
Originally Posted by darrensls1
You must have missed a few things because I did mention the drive shaft loop, tires and the tune
M/T Street radials have been known to hook almost as good as thier slicks. And DSL was short for driveshaft safety loop. As for the rest of the list I don't think they are neccasary for a high 10 second car pulling say 1.5 60's.
The ones they are talking about are 15" ones that go on drag light rims....
That means you still left the cost of the rims out..
You also did not include skinny rims and tires.
If you do not include those then you are going to need even MORE power to get into the tens.
As for not needing the rest... good greif you could not be more wrong...
A serious drive shaft will save your cars ***... You honestly think the stock aluminum DS can handle the power a 10 sec car makes???
Good luck with that...
Sway bar.... Now you are just not being safe at all, you have any idea what happens when the stock sway bar
starts flexing off the line under serious power??? Your car goes side ways and you get to introduce your bumper
to the jersey walls at the track... or better yet, to the car in the next lane...
Please do not lead people wronge with this stuff.. you may cost someone there ride if they listen to you.
As for the relocation backets, shocks, springs and K-member . ALL of these parts have a dramatic effect
on how your car sticks the launch. You honestly think all there is to traction is heating up a set of drag radials???
Gimme a break... Again it comes from reading, not doing... I spend the first 3 passes on a track day
adjusting my suspention so I am not blowing my tires off for the first 100 feet of track.
The list you put together will not see 10's. It will be LUCKY to see the end of the 1/4 mile without seriously damaging something.
You have NO recipe for traction.
You do not have a complete hardened parts list.
You want him to feather out of the hole to keep from breaking the parts you missed, but give no recipe for making it up on the big end.
What you gave a recipe for is a mid 11 sec grenade.
Take your list to the drag race section.
Tell everyone there you have the recipe for a reliable 10 sec daily driver.
See if anyone there agrees with you.
03-04-2007 | 03:45 PM
#51
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 1
From: Keller, Texas
Originally Posted by not7fifteen
Here's what'd Id say, listed by how important they are
1. Most important - A new rear, your 10 bolts going to break at 10's with a M6 - $1500
2. You're never going to hit 10's without insane power off street tires, so DR's or Slicks - $500
3. Clutch - stock clutch won't hold - $400 -??
4. Full bolt ons (full exhaust, lid, ls6 intake, free mods, etc.) - $2000
5. Power adder - be it Nitrous/blower/turbo - depends on your funds - $600-???
6. Cam or heads/cam to suit your power adder - $400 - $3000
7. Built block for more reliability or more boost/n2o...$1000-??
8. Misc.. Weight reduction/set of light wheels/aftermarket suspension $100-???
MOST IMPORTANT - after all this you will need a TUNE - $400-???
This isn't including labor...Which depending on the part, the install can cost just as much or more.
Basically how fast you go depends on how much you want to spend?
I'd say at least $10,000 to have a RELIABLE dd that can bust out a 10 at the track. Or do a budget build/self installs and I've heard of cars with $2-3K in them hitting 10's at the track with a big shot of juice....
1. Most important - A new rear, your 10 bolts going to break at 10's with a M6 - $1500
2. You're never going to hit 10's without insane power off street tires, so DR's or Slicks - $500
3. Clutch - stock clutch won't hold - $400 -??
4. Full bolt ons (full exhaust, lid, ls6 intake, free mods, etc.) - $2000
5. Power adder - be it Nitrous/blower/turbo - depends on your funds - $600-???
6. Cam or heads/cam to suit your power adder - $400 - $3000
7. Built block for more reliability or more boost/n2o...$1000-??
8. Misc.. Weight reduction/set of light wheels/aftermarket suspension $100-???
MOST IMPORTANT - after all this you will need a TUNE - $400-???
This isn't including labor...Which depending on the part, the install can cost just as much or more.
Basically how fast you go depends on how much you want to spend?
I'd say at least $10,000 to have a RELIABLE dd that can bust out a 10 at the track. Or do a budget build/self installs and I've heard of cars with $2-3K in them hitting 10's at the track with a big shot of juice....
now take almost all of thoes prices and double/tripple them. i thik most of toes prices are bare minimum you will pay and that even taking your time and shopping around/swap meets and such. good luck with your plans
03-04-2007 | 04:37 PM
#53
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 2
From: Philly
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
ALOT? You sure about that?
Lemme ask 2 questions, you get answers to them and I'll call it a day.
Lemme ask 2 questions, you get answers to them and I'll call it a day.
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
1. How many times have they had that "reliable" trans rebuilt since they started running 10's? (they are automatically disqualified if they have only been 10's once on a perfect DA day. we are talking a true 10 sec car.)
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
2. How many are reliable DAILY DRIVERS? (not stripped to bare metal race cars.)
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Show me a 9 sec car running a 4l60e. Show me one that doesnt rebuild it once every 2 months if not more.
03-04-2007 | 05:18 PM
#54
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 2
From: loudoun county,va
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
yes, a lot. there aren't many people running 10's on this site to begin with, but out of the ones that are and are running an auto, a lot of them run 4L60E's.
I have found 18 that run 4l60's
at least 5 of them have been thru several broken ones before the one they currently drive.
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
look in the street racing and kills section. a lot of the 10 second LS1 drivers ride their cars on the weekend.
By any standered you are descibing a recreation car(one that is driven only on weekends , only on nice sun shiny days)
As for the 9 sec car running the 4l60... I found one. I have no word yet on how many he has been through.
Long story short is this.
With a 4l60e you are rolling the dice. You MIGHT hold up running tens.. You might(probably) not.
But by that standered how on earth can you call that reliable?
There was a few people who have jumped out of planes and their chutes did not open, they got incredably lucky and lived.
But would you go around telling people it was you dont need a chute to sky dive?
Is it possable to build a ten second f-body for 16,000 using a 4l60e trans and a 10bolt and it not brake? YES...just about anything is POSSABLE.
Is it PROBABLE ? Let me put it this way... if you do get this to work... Buy a Lotto ticket... cause your one LUCKY SOB...
By the way..... Either one of you wanna race?
03-04-2007 | 05:49 PM
#55
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 1
From: Sandwich, IL
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Yeh I missed that you said tune and DSL, but you are WAY off on the tires...
See this comes from READING and not doing... the M/T SR's can stick almost as good as ET streets, but not in 16-17 inch form
The ones they are talking about are 15" ones that go on drag light rims....
That means you still left the cost of the rims out..
You also did not include skinny rims and tires.
See this comes from READING and not doing... the M/T SR's can stick almost as good as ET streets, but not in 16-17 inch form
The ones they are talking about are 15" ones that go on drag light rims....
That means you still left the cost of the rims out..
You also did not include skinny rims and tires.
I am building a street/strip car not a track only car. I think this is why we have opposing views. I can accept a 1.6 60' where you can not. I can accept a little finese on the launch where you want to build a car that pops the front tires two feet in the air.
Apples to oranges as far as the application of the vehicles.
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
If you do not include those then you are going to need even MORE power to get into the tens.
As for not needing the rest... good greif you could not be more wrong...
A serious drive shaft will save your cars ***... You honestly think the stock aluminum DS can handle the power a 10 sec car makes???
Good luck with that...
Sway bar.... Now you are just not being safe at all, you have any idea what happens when the stock sway bar
starts flexing off the line under serious power??? Your car goes side ways and you get to introduce your bumper
to the jersey walls at the track... or better yet, to the car in the next lane...
Please do not lead people wronge with this stuff.. you may cost someone there ride if they listen to you.
As for the relocation backets, shocks, springs and K-member . ALL of these parts have a dramatic effect
on how your car sticks the launch. You honestly think all there is to traction is heating up a set of drag radials???
Gimme a break... Again it comes from reading, not doing... I spend the first 3 passes on a track day
adjusting my suspention so I am not blowing my tires off for the first 100 feet of track.
As for not needing the rest... good greif you could not be more wrong...
A serious drive shaft will save your cars ***... You honestly think the stock aluminum DS can handle the power a 10 sec car makes???
Good luck with that...
Sway bar.... Now you are just not being safe at all, you have any idea what happens when the stock sway bar
starts flexing off the line under serious power??? Your car goes side ways and you get to introduce your bumper
to the jersey walls at the track... or better yet, to the car in the next lane...
Please do not lead people wronge with this stuff.. you may cost someone there ride if they listen to you.
As for the relocation backets, shocks, springs and K-member . ALL of these parts have a dramatic effect
on how your car sticks the launch. You honestly think all there is to traction is heating up a set of drag radials???
Gimme a break... Again it comes from reading, not doing... I spend the first 3 passes on a track day
adjusting my suspention so I am not blowing my tires off for the first 100 feet of track.
How is that? Picture the car on a dyno pulling 475 rwhp. I think we can both agree that is no stretch for a 408 with ETP heads, custom cam and a fast 90/90. Now add to that mix:
Originally Posted by darrensls1
NX 150 wetkit + safety devices $1,000
1). Do NOT spray out of the hole. Wait till second and spray the rest of the run.
2). Do not spray through the shift(s). Use a window switch to cut off just before a shift and the 4L60E will thank you.
Hello tens.
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
The list you put together will not see 10's. It will be LUCKY to see the end of the 1/4 mile without seriously damaging something.
You have NO recipe for traction.
You do not have a complete hardened parts list.
You want him to feather out of the hole to keep from breaking the parts you missed, but give no recipe for making it up on the big end.
What you gave a recipe for is a mid 11 sec grenade.
Take your list to the drag race section.
Tell everyone there you have the recipe for a reliable 10 sec daily driver.
See if anyone there agrees with you.
You have NO recipe for traction.
You do not have a complete hardened parts list.
You want him to feather out of the hole to keep from breaking the parts you missed, but give no recipe for making it up on the big end.
What you gave a recipe for is a mid 11 sec grenade.
Take your list to the drag race section.
Tell everyone there you have the recipe for a reliable 10 sec daily driver.
See if anyone there agrees with you.
But if I make tens, if I don't grenade everything, if I do manage to accomplish my mission then I be sure to let you know that too
We still need to agree to disagree.
03-04-2007 | 06:04 PM
#56
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 2
From: loudoun county,va
Originally Posted by darrensls1
I tell you what I'll do. I'll tell you if you were right or wrong. This setup (other then I'm using ETP LS7 heads and LS7 intake) is going in my car. If I don't make tens or I blow up my car then I'll gladly admit I was wrong
But if I make tens, if I don't grenade everything, if I do manage to accomplish my mission then I be sure to let you know that too
.
But if I make tens, if I don't grenade everything, if I do manage to accomplish my mission then I be sure to let you know that too
.
I will ask you with everything in me... Please reconsider the stock driveshaft. I dont want you to get hurt or worse, just to show that I was right. Its not worth that...
I have seen REALLY bad accedents at the track when a fast car loses its driveshaft at mid track/ mid shift...I cant stop you, but I hope you reconsider...
As for letting me know what breaks and what does not, I would love to keep a log on it. Best of luck to you... I hope you prove me wrong.
I will ask one other small favor....
Until you do prove me wrong (or right) please dont advise people to run a set up you have not tried...
Hurting your self or your car is bad...
Hurting someone else or thier ride is much worse...
03-04-2007 | 06:09 PM
#57
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 1
From: Sandwich, IL
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
I will ask you with everything in me... Please reconsider the stock driveshaft. I dont want you to get hurt or worse, just to show that I was right. Its not worth that... I have seen REALLY bad accedents at the track when a fast car loses its driveshaft at mid track/ mid shift...
I cant stop you, but I hope you reconsider...
As for letting me know what breaks and what does not, I would love to keep a log on it. Best of luck to you... I hope you prove me wrong.
I will ask one other small favor....
Until you do prove me wrong (or right) please dont advise people to run a set up you have not tried...
Hurting your self or your car is bad...
Hurting someone else or thier ride is much worse...
I have seen REALLY bad accedents at the track when a fast car loses its driveshaft at mid track/ mid shift...I cant stop you, but I hope you reconsider...
As for letting me know what breaks and what does not, I would love to keep a log on it. Best of luck to you... I hope you prove me wrong.
I will ask one other small favor....
Until you do prove me wrong (or right) please dont advise people to run a set up you have not tried...
Hurting your self or your car is bad...
Hurting someone else or thier ride is much worse...
I do appreciate your concern even if we don't see eye to eye. And I intend to prove you wrong
03-04-2007 | 07:04 PM
#59
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 1
From: Sandwich, IL
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
I hope you do..... Then we can race
We are both on the east coast and it is going to be a street driven car with plates so I might be willing to make a trip to Virginia to see the sites.I'll let you know when my car is done and tested at my local track.
