to each their own, Spec Stage 3 can hold more than the LS7.

People dont like Spec Stage 3's becuase they get jumpy and dont break in their clutches properly and they then they last about half as long

The only advantage the LS7 clutch has is that it is a solid disk instead of the Stage 3. That just means it might be a little smoother when engaging gears,etc.

And i f your not going to be making the kinda power that a textralia is designed for....well, its not worth the money.


LS7 clutch is a very nice, HEAVY *** clutch but its not as good as the SPEC.

Ask the drag racing guys which clutch they use and i gaurantee you they will bring up SPEC alot more than LS7.

 

easy fellas, i'm sure both are good]
i actually have two diff friends and each has one of each and they are both good
hahah they are both better then my stock ****
i'mma do some more research on both because before shiner told me to look at the spec i was all into the ls7/ls2 setup
thanks for your input haha this thread was started about clutches and trannys and no one has really talked about what kind of tranny or rear end they like

 

tsp is badass

 

you keep your stock flywheel?

 

tranny should be fine, but if your worried about it just send it off to t56rebuilds.com, they'll hook you up. for rears, some people go 12 bolt but they are known for breaking once in a while. you shouldnt have problems with just a cam though. the 9 inch is almost bulletproof, as well as the s60. FROM WHAT I READ, spec clutches do not respond well to being slipped and are therefore not suited for dd. this why you dont hear the drag guys complaining, they dont slip them much.

 

This is very true. My clutch is notchy, and you cant really "Feather" the peddle when slowly taking off from a red light. I have slipped my clutch before(1-2 gear ROMP), but is not too common. It is set up for drag and not for daily drving, if your not gonna make your car over 400 rwhp then i would get a Stage 2.

 

This is very true. My clutch is very notchy/grabby, and you cant really "Feather" the peddle when slowly taking off from a green light. I have slipped my clutch before(1-2 gear ROMP), but is not too common. It is set up for drag and not for daily drving, if your not gonna make your car over 400 rwhp then i would get a Stage 2.

 

The only problem is SPEC has had a considerable amount of problems in the past, true they have been clearing it up lately, but once you have a tarnished name, its hard to regroup. I hope in the next few years they dont sell anymore of the products that are having the problems, but only time will tell.

 

I love my Spec Stage 2 clutch. I actually put it on a stock car because eventually I knew I would be doing my mods. I don't know if that was a bad idea, but it's been in the car for almost 15K miles. And all the bolt ons have about 10 of those 15. It has seen maybe 10 track passes, tons of street racing, and still bites like day 1. I plan on actually putting either the MS4 or the Trex this summer, and on top of the spraying :driving: When that does indeed happen, I will be upgrading to another Spec clutch

 

has anyone tried the stage two "plus"??? says its as good for daily drivin just takes more torque

 

Yea I run the 2+ with their billet steel flywheel. I am very impressed with it. It holds really good for what power I am putting down. I'll be putting a cm in here in a couple of months, probably a MS4 as well . We'll see how long it holds up then

 

what made you buy the 2+ over the 2?

 

Check out the manual transmission forums below, the LS7 is the replacement for most typical bolt on cars, and the majority of the feedback there is positive. I don't see a reason to go LS6 (Z06) when the LS2/LS7 combo can be had for relatively the same price and holds more power.

Spec on the other hand gets no love in that forum with plenty of vocal members with bad experiences. Pics exist too to prove just how badly they will go if you don't get the install and break in done perfectly. After driving a spec equipped car on a test drive, if you are DD, it will take some getting used to. It is possible to DD, just depends on how much you are willing to endure. There are also an increasing number of veteran m6 drivers now chiming in about specs getting the proper break in, all the new hydraulics, proper bleeds and still getting shafted after their first runs at the track. Just warning you to do some more digging on them before making a decision.

The LS7 is not without it's issues as well, if you go with the typical LS2 flywheel/LS7 clutch combo, you will gain more rotational weight on the drivetrain. Typically it will suck around 10hp and less than that in torque. The gain is that it will hold for most bolt on cars and some cars eeking up on the 500hp territory duing light strip/mostly street duty. Reports are coming in that sticky tires, hot laps and LS7 vette territory matching or exceeding power in a significantly heavier f-body will push this clutch to it's limits.

If you go Fidanza LS2 aluminum flywheel, and LS7 clutch, you will bring the weight down to stock LS1 clutch assembly weight.

Textralia shines in it's ability to be installed like stock (no need for the perfect shim/flywheel thickness like spec), drive like stock (or close), should hold more than the LS7 and spec 3, but will cost an arm and leg depending on how much power you make even at the lowest stock levels. Problems on this clutch as of late is the paint around the pressure plate assembly tends to flake off and may end up with the PP backing out, so careful on install and use the red on the flywheel and blue on the PP with the paint cleared out before torquing.

Finally, the biggest problem and complaint of everyone is the hydraulics. Regardless of which clutch you pick, get the updated slave and master, bleed and bleed and bleed until it is perfect, protect the hydraulic line from heat and use a higher temp fluid.

 

nice
thanks for the input

 

As far as the clutch and flywheel I would have to recomend the Textralia. I have the OZ700 with billet steel flywheel in my car and it works flawlessly. Pedal pressure and engagement are almost the same as stock but it hold all the power that I can throw at it for now at least. We will see in a month when the Procharger goes on.

For the rear end if you are going cam only you should be fine with a 12 bolt but if you are going for more power I would get a 9". My car actually has the stock 10 bolt now at 450rwhp but it is only a matter of time. Once it goes Im getting a 9".