Header install SUCKED! Kinda long sorry
#21
I used anti sieze, everything under the hood is ok now, I got a leak where the collertor meets the Y on the drivers side though. Welding them wasnt my first choice but looks like im going that way. While there in there im gonna have them weld all the connections and put a hanger on the Y to stop that bangin. Glad to hear im not the only one thats ever had problems! After gettin the welding on the Y done the only thing is that one bolt halfway in on the passenger side. Its not leaking but I dont wanna force that bolt in so I guess il have to wait an see what it does? For those of you that have had broken bolts how on earth did u find the room in there to tap them out?
#24
Originally Posted by ATXCAMAROGUY
I don't know why people buy new header gaskets, the stock metal gasket is the best gasket you can use. They can be reused over and over. For the bolts that won't go in anymore, sounds like you started them wrong and chances are those bolt holes are fucked.
#25
Originally Posted by bww3588
no, the stock gasket is not the best you can use, especially if yours have been on for 10 years. the 10 dollar felpro's i bought at autozone look 10 times better and have convient little hooks on either end of them so you can start the first and last bolt on the header and then drop the gasket down on in. you dont have to hold it while you start the bolts. cheap insurance IMO.
#26
Originally Posted by tennz28
I used anti sieze, everything under the hood is ok now, I got a leak where the collertor meets the Y on the drivers side though. Welding them wasnt my first choice but looks like im going that way. While there in there im gonna have them weld all the connections and put a hanger on the Y to stop that bangin. Glad to hear im not the only one thats ever had problems! After gettin the welding on the Y done the only thing is that one bolt halfway in on the passenger side. Its not leaking but I dont wanna force that bolt in so I guess il have to wait an see what it does? For those of you that have had broken bolts how on earth did u find the room in there to tap them out?
And yes the stock metal gaskets are the absolute best gasket you can use, of course if they are rusty and look fucked up don't use them, but buy new OEM metal gaskets. I've done dozens of header installs, never 1 time have I had a leak w/ the stock metal gaskets.
#27
[QUOTE=Revelation Z28]yep, its normal.
did you use anti-sieze on the bolts? or blue loctite?[/QUOT
Some anti-sieze is a good idea,but dont use loctite it can make removal of the header bolts very difficult later.You might even have to use a torch.
did you use anti-sieze on the bolts? or blue loctite?[/QUOT
Some anti-sieze is a good idea,but dont use loctite it can make removal of the header bolts very difficult later.You might even have to use a torch.
#28
Ok well ive tried to turn all the bolts some more they wont budge especially the one thats half way in. And the tickin sound is back. So im takin to a custom muffler shop to see what they can do, they have more tools than me. And if they have to be rethreaded il let them takle that one. So worst case senerio a few threads have to be redone an I need 2 new gaskets how much $ we talkin about?
#29
Why don't you see if someone w/ ls1 experience can help you locally. If you just take it to a muffler shop chances are they don't have much experience w/ engine work which is what you need. Don't take it to a regular mechanic cause they charge by the hour and it will take him longer than someone who has experience w/ ls1's.
#30
Me and a buddy (with LS1) experience did it together, and with all thats going on ive had it with this job. So id love to find help somewhere else but its a long shot, I dont wanna pay what there gonna charge but atleast il have peace of mind that its done right. I do have a good performance shop here thats where im taking it first so hopfully they dont rape me for new header gaskets an tapin a few holes! This hole thing has frustrated me to the point that im gonna pay someone to fix what ive messed up. Live an learn I guess. Im pissed at myself for having to go somewhere for help but I see that as my only option left. Its my DD and I cant afford to let this problem linger on till I figure it out on my own.
#31
from my experience, the center bolt hole (on the header) is the one you have to put in first. i believe it lines up the rest of the holes, if you know what i mean. i put in one bolt in a different place and the thing wouldn't line up, until i put the center bolt in first.
#32
I just did my motor swap and noticed that the center bolts are shorter than the others. dont try to tighten them down anymore your going to **** something up. Unless you have all bolts tight your gonna get a leak and that can cause a valve issue.
#33
don't weld it man......mine was leaking pretty bad and I went to autozone and bought exhaust sealer ($3) and it sealed it right up. Looks messy under there but who is looking under my car?
when I did my header install I broke a bolt off in the head. I had to weld a nut on the end of the bolt to get it back out. Thanks to some friends it was all resolved without issue. I don't have any banging on the floor board like others have siad though. I would take the bolt out, spray some wd40 on it and keep working it (tighten then loosen) till you get it in all the way.
Did you use the stock bolts or the new ones that came with the lts? I know mine were differend and the stock ones looked stonger.
when I did my header install I broke a bolt off in the head. I had to weld a nut on the end of the bolt to get it back out. Thanks to some friends it was all resolved without issue. I don't have any banging on the floor board like others have siad though. I would take the bolt out, spray some wd40 on it and keep working it (tighten then loosen) till you get it in all the way.
Did you use the stock bolts or the new ones that came with the lts? I know mine were differend and the stock ones looked stonger.
#34
Well took the car to the shop today and it turned out to be the AIR gasket on the drivers side. The gasket was cracked and that was causing the ticking. So 2 new bolts and some RTV problem solved. Tonight im gonna get that bolt out thats half way in and use a smaller bolt. So now there are no leaks in the engine bay or under the car. Now for the y-pipe, its banging an vibrating like crazy where on the pipe should I be tryin to bend it? And after a little bending im gonna try to get a hanger welded on. Ive decided not to weld the connections I just tightened the hell out of those U-clamps and its good now. After the Y-pipe stops bangin il be good to go.
PS. Thank to all that responded to this thread
PS. Thank to all that responded to this thread
Last edited by tennz28; 04-24-2007 at 01:23 PM.
#35
Update-
All seals are good I went to GM an got a new gasket for the air hose that was leaking. Went to a muffler shop an had them bend the Y till it stopped banging. And I worked that scew in on the passenger side after a tap cleaned the hole out. So now im 100% again, and loving my new sound and improved HP. Thanks to everyone that gave me advise. Im just glad its over an I can finally enjoy the car instead of worring about a banging ORY an bolts that wont go all the way in! Anyone on the fence about getting LT's just do it. Even if its a pain in the butt at the end when its all done its worth it!
All seals are good I went to GM an got a new gasket for the air hose that was leaking. Went to a muffler shop an had them bend the Y till it stopped banging. And I worked that scew in on the passenger side after a tap cleaned the hole out. So now im 100% again, and loving my new sound and improved HP. Thanks to everyone that gave me advise. Im just glad its over an I can finally enjoy the car instead of worring about a banging ORY an bolts that wont go all the way in! Anyone on the fence about getting LT's just do it. Even if its a pain in the butt at the end when its all done its worth it!