Drag Racing Basics(A4)?
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Drag Racing Basics(A4)?
All right, So im planning on running the ole ls1 for the first time this evening and was wondering how i should stage my auto with a stock convertor, and BFG DR's.
To what RPM should i brake torque it while im on the tree. As high as my brakes will let me? Or should i let the convertor flash while launching?
Also should i run in overdrive or just leave it in drive?
mods are in sig, Im planning on spraying the 100 shot as well.
if there's anything else i should know...lets hear it
much obliged
To what RPM should i brake torque it while im on the tree. As high as my brakes will let me? Or should i let the convertor flash while launching?
Also should i run in overdrive or just leave it in drive?
mods are in sig, Im planning on spraying the 100 shot as well.
if there's anything else i should know...lets hear it
much obliged
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I'm sure its different with a non turbo car, but with my Grand National, bury both pedals until the car starts to push through the beams, then hold it there. When the light hits, drop the bomb and hopefully the DRs will hook enough to only get slight wheel spin.
When I leave, I am pushing 9lbs of boost, so it hits really quick, but it takes a second for the 3600 converter to play catch up.
I would just experiment with different techniques until you find one that gives you good consistent 60 ft times
When I leave, I am pushing 9lbs of boost, so it hits really quick, but it takes a second for the 3600 converter to play catch up.
I would just experiment with different techniques until you find one that gives you good consistent 60 ft times
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ive only gone to the track once, and it was real fun. on stock tires, im pretty sure i dont have to worry about doing a burnout in the waterbox... but with DRs, from what i hear, you wanna burn a layer of rubber off when u first get to the track...just get the old layer off and warm the tires up.
i ran a consistent 13.8x, with a best 60' of 1.9. i dunno if brakestanding on the stock 'verter will net u any positive results though.. i ran completely stock, just goin from keepin my foot on the brake and pounding the gas at a green. i plan on goin later, runnin stock again, tryin a few different techniques out. i kept it in o-drive the whole time...maybe manually shifting is better?
hope this helps out a lil bit... dont know too much since it was only my first time.
i ran a consistent 13.8x, with a best 60' of 1.9. i dunno if brakestanding on the stock 'verter will net u any positive results though.. i ran completely stock, just goin from keepin my foot on the brake and pounding the gas at a green. i plan on goin later, runnin stock again, tryin a few different techniques out. i kept it in o-drive the whole time...maybe manually shifting is better?
hope this helps out a lil bit... dont know too much since it was only my first time.
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With a stock stalled auto on DR's u'll want to put the car in nuetral at the line (were you will stage) then apply full brakes, and brake stall it up to about 1800rpm. Then off the line you let off the brakes as quickly as possible and mash the throttle. (remember to feather as little as possible). With out the neutral trick it will only stall up to 1400-1500rpm try it and see. And like stated above it should be in D not OD. AND no metter what anyone tells you please DO NOT try and shift the 1-2-3 yourself, it only delays the shifts as the 4l60e does nto have a manual valve body. It has to be run through the pcm first then shift.
If you are flashing the convertor off the line go a LITTLE early, if you have it loaded up go on the third yellow.
Flashing the converter off the line works very well too. I'd try both, see what your car likes best. My old car used to like the flash off the line on DR's and the brake stall on street tires.
If you are flashing the convertor off the line go a LITTLE early, if you have it loaded up go on the third yellow.
Flashing the converter off the line works very well too. I'd try both, see what your car likes best. My old car used to like the flash off the line on DR's and the brake stall on street tires.
Last edited by djsanchez2; 06-01-2007 at 02:54 PM.
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i use m.t. e/t streets and back into the water box, spin the tires over a little in 1st. enough to get the water on the tires then pull forward and do a burnout until i see a slight haze coming off the tires(try adjusted the sideview down to see it). once you see the haze, let go of the break and move the shifter to second. go and stage and when the 3rd yellow light goes, floor it. if you spin a bunch, try foot braking. also, dont forget to turn off traction control and to move the shifter up from 2 to drive or overdrive
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With a stock converter and I assume stock gears you should have no problems getting the car to dead hook on BFG drag radials. Here is what I did when I had a similair setup (except I was running Nitto 555R's).
1). 20 psi in the back tires and normal psi in the front.
2). Long burnout in second gear to get the tires heated up (10 second count after I started to see smoke).
3). Put shifter in D or OD and stage ASAP so the tires don't get too much time to cool down. I prefer OD personally.
4). Bring the revs up to 1500-2000 rpm's and hold for the tree.
5). On the third yellow release the brake while flooring the gas pedal.
6). Hold the freak on
I have dead hooked and gotten by best times with this method. Hell even with a 3500 stall and M/T street radials I still get the best results doing this. The only difference is I now stall up to 2500 before mashing the gas on green.
But if you do have problems hooking then you might want to stop stalling up and just flash the converter off a straight idle. Whatever you do, make sure your next mod is a 3000-4000 stall with a big tranny cooler. Good luck.
1). 20 psi in the back tires and normal psi in the front.
2). Long burnout in second gear to get the tires heated up (10 second count after I started to see smoke).
3). Put shifter in D or OD and stage ASAP so the tires don't get too much time to cool down. I prefer OD personally.
4). Bring the revs up to 1500-2000 rpm's and hold for the tree.
5). On the third yellow release the brake while flooring the gas pedal.
6). Hold the freak on
I have dead hooked and gotten by best times with this method. Hell even with a 3500 stall and M/T street radials I still get the best results doing this. The only difference is I now stall up to 2500 before mashing the gas on green.
But if you do have problems hooking then you might want to stop stalling up and just flash the converter off a straight idle. Whatever you do, make sure your next mod is a 3000-4000 stall with a big tranny cooler. Good luck.
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on my car with the stock verter i found that 25psi and flashing off the line worked best.lower tire pressure bogged the car and brake stalling blew the tires off.just try to find a consistant method and go from there