My car is an asshole and i need your help.. codes and car problems
06-27-2008, 04:09 PM
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My car is an ******* and i need your help.. codes and car problems Some background info -- just had an ls6 installed by a fellow tech member so i needed to get the egr code turned off. This morning I met up with the guy and he turned off the egr code and some other ones...
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0161 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
p1416 Secondary Air Injection [AIR] System Bank 2
The above codes were turned off but there were still 3 codes that he didn't wanna mess with. They are:
U1000 -- class 2 communication malfunction (in history and immature)
u1016 and
[HUD]U1000
Once those were turned off the car started up kinda funny but it started and i drove 2 miles back to my house. Later on that day, I tried to pass a car on the road so i put my gas to the floor and nothing happened. Usually it shifts and the car takes off. I pulled into an empty parking lot and mashed the gas down to see what was going on. The car now wont shift until 4k rpms.
The check engine light came back on so i went to advanced auto and these codes came back:
p1153 and p1133 and p1155
i bought a new O2 sensor that ill put on but other then that i am clueless and pretty damn annoyed
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0161 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
p1416 Secondary Air Injection [AIR] System Bank 2
The above codes were turned off but there were still 3 codes that he didn't wanna mess with. They are:
U1000 -- class 2 communication malfunction (in history and immature)
u1016 and
[HUD]U1000
Once those were turned off the car started up kinda funny but it started and i drove 2 miles back to my house. Later on that day, I tried to pass a car on the road so i put my gas to the floor and nothing happened. Usually it shifts and the car takes off. I pulled into an empty parking lot and mashed the gas down to see what was going on. The car now wont shift until 4k rpms.
The check engine light came back on so i went to advanced auto and these codes came back:
p1153 and p1133 and p1155
i bought a new O2 sensor that ill put on but other then that i am clueless and pretty damn annoyed
06-27-2008, 04:21 PM
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Not a huge expert but it could be a possible bad ground. The all your grounds even the block to frame one. Other then that could be a partially fried pcm..good luck with all that let me know what you find
06-27-2008, 04:54 PM
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Well i would def make sure that your alternator isn't under or over supplying voltage to the batt. any bad voltage under 10 or over 17 will cause codes to come up even when there really isn't a problem in relation to the code.. Also check your battery make sure it doesn't have any bad cells or just isn't bad in general. as far as grounds go make sure for starters the battery terminals are tight and not loose or pinched at all. Also one main ground for the motor to chassis is located on the left/ driver side of the block to frame..its almost just behind the alternator. Also make sure your pcm and harness all look like they are in good condition and not corroded at all. kinda just do a visual and stick with the basics usually people over examine and over think the situation. im willing to bet its something simple and stupid just keep looking and investigation..........also what work was recently done? if any??
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06-27-2008, 05:17 PM
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Well i would def make sure that your alternator isn't under or over supplying voltage to the batt. any bad voltage under 10 or over 17 will cause codes to come up even when there really isn't a problem in relation to the code.. Also check your battery make sure it doesn't have any bad cells or just isn't bad in general. as far as grounds go make sure for starters the battery terminals are tight and not loose or pinched at all. Also one main ground for the motor to chassis is located on the left/ driver side of the block to frame..its almost just behind the alternator. Also make sure your pcm and harness all look like they are in good condition and not corroded at all. kinda just do a visual and stick with the basics usually people over examine and over think the situation. im willing to bet its something simple and stupid just keep looking and investigation..........also what work was recently done? if any??
the only recent work was getting the LS6 manifold and a ported TB... also, i dont know if this is alternator related but my speakers give off a high pitch squeel when i accelerate at times. how can i tell if my alternator is bad?
I'm going to replace the o2 sensor and see if that fixes anything. I also have a feeling i might have to change my spark plugs (never been done) and possibly replace or have someone clean out the injectors
06-27-2008, 05:26 PM
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yea you def have ground issues. check the ground on the back of the driver head. there should be 3 black wired bolted to the back side of the head maybe that was accidently messed with or some wires got pinched..
06-27-2008, 05:44 PM
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not sure, the higher the rpm, the higher the pitch coming from the speaker
yea you def have ground issues. check the ground on the back of the driver head. there should be 3 black wired bolted to the back side of the head maybe that was accidently messed with or some wires got pinched..
06-27-2008, 06:23 PM
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On the driver side cylinder head look for 3 black wires bolted to the back flat part of the head with a 15mm bolt right near the firewall. Check those first they thould be on tight. also check for pinched wires back there. I wish i was there to help ya. This is kind of a visual inspection check, just go over everything, battery terminals and all your bound to find something that looks out of wack. concentrate around the back of the intake manifold area.
06-27-2008, 07:07 PM
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On the driver side cylinder head look for 3 black wires bolted to the back flat part of the head with a 15mm bolt right near the firewall. Check those first they thould be on tight. also check for pinched wires back there. I wish i was there to help ya. This is kind of a visual inspection check, just go over everything, battery terminals and all your bound to find something that looks out of wack. concentrate around the back of the intake manifold area.
I just went out to get some gas to see if anything changed and nothing different. When i get on the gas the car doesn't do anything.. u hear the engine trying to work but it doesn't go any faster. Once i let off the gas a little it shifts and speeds up. On the way to the gas station i had it floored and it wouldn't go faster then 60. Once i let off the gas it shifted and i was slowly able to get up to like 70.
i'm gonna go look around by the firewall for a 15mm bold
06-27-2008, 07:48 PM
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i am not seeing what you're talking about at all... I dont wanna have to take it to a shop just to get the electric looked at but i guess thats what'll happen tomorrow - -they wanted $150 to chang 1 o2 sensor -- damn rip off, took me 5 minutes once the car was jacked up
06-27-2008, 07:59 PM
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i am not seeing what you're talking about at all... I dont wanna have to take it to a shop just to get the electric looked at but i guess thats what'll happen tomorrow - -they wanted $150 to chang 1 o2 sensor -- damn rip off, took me 5 minutes once the car was jacked up
If you cant figure anything out give me a call and i can take a look at it for you. Im not too far from you.
06-27-2008, 08:03 PM
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thanks, i appreciate the offer but im not in philly anymore, except for random weekends to go out drinking with my friends. I'm out in lancaster county now so to claymont DE is like an hour and a half. i dont really wanna take it on the highway until i figure out whats wrong with it
06-27-2008, 09:54 PM
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You have more problems than just the o2 sensor and the EGR. If you have no automotive/electrical knowlege I would suggest taking it to the dealership and having them check it out.
You don't have missfire codes so I don't understand why you are messing with spark plugs, wires, injectors, ect. The map code could have been thrown if the person installing the intake turned on the key with the map unplugged. If those last 3 codes are the only ones that came back then I wouldn't worry about the others. P1153 and P1133 are for the o2 sensor not switching. Usually you will also get a lean or rich code along with those codes. It is possible that you have a vacuum leak. You really need a good scan tool to aid in diagnosing these problems. I'm a tech and if I didn't at least have access a scan tool and wiring diagrams I wouldn't even attempt to diag those problems.
You don't have missfire codes so I don't understand why you are messing with spark plugs, wires, injectors, ect. The map code could have been thrown if the person installing the intake turned on the key with the map unplugged. If those last 3 codes are the only ones that came back then I wouldn't worry about the others. P1153 and P1133 are for the o2 sensor not switching. Usually you will also get a lean or rich code along with those codes. It is possible that you have a vacuum leak. You really need a good scan tool to aid in diagnosing these problems. I'm a tech and if I didn't at least have access a scan tool and wiring diagrams I wouldn't even attempt to diag those problems.
07-07-2008, 11:28 PM
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You have more problems than just the o2 sensor and the EGR. If you have no automotive/electrical knowlege I would suggest taking it to the dealership and having them check it out.
You don't have missfire codes so I don't understand why you are messing with spark plugs, wires, injectors, ect. The map code could have been thrown if the person installing the intake turned on the key with the map unplugged. If those last 3 codes are the only ones that came back then I wouldn't worry about the others. P1153 and P1133 are for the o2 sensor not switching. Usually you will also get a lean or rich code along with those codes. It is possible that you have a vacuum leak. You really need a good scan tool to aid in diagnosing these problems. I'm a tech and if I didn't at least have access a scan tool and wiring diagrams I wouldn't even attempt to diag those problems.
You don't have missfire codes so I don't understand why you are messing with spark plugs, wires, injectors, ect. The map code could have been thrown if the person installing the intake turned on the key with the map unplugged. If those last 3 codes are the only ones that came back then I wouldn't worry about the others. P1153 and P1133 are for the o2 sensor not switching. Usually you will also get a lean or rich code along with those codes. It is possible that you have a vacuum leak. You really need a good scan tool to aid in diagnosing these problems. I'm a tech and if I didn't at least have access a scan tool and wiring diagrams I wouldn't even attempt to diag those problems.