What oil do all you guys use?
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I was thinkin about runnin the VR1 20/50 since it's the same price as the regular valvoline i'm running, but I didn't really know how you determine what weight oil you can use, don't know if 50 weight would be too thick and I can't find it in a 40 weight anywhere (not sure if they even make it in a 40 weight).
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I was thinkin about runnin the VR1 20/50 since it's the same price as the regular valvoline i'm running, but I didn't really know how you determine what weight oil you can use, don't know if 50 weight would be too thick and I can't find it in a 40 weight anywhere (not sure if they even make it in a 40 weight).
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You think I could use the 20/50, like I said, i'm not sure how you determine what weight you can use, don't know if the 50 would be too thick, does it go by how loose the bearing clearances are, or does it not really matter and you can just run what you want? I still drive the car around on the street on weekends to hang out with the guys and stuff, but it's mostly a race car.
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If you change it every track trip, you're pissing mad $ away with synthetic, and with the way a nitrous car dirties up the oil anyway, I would definately be changing it every trip, synthetic or not, the oil's gonna be dirty with a big shot nitrous car after a track day, so it needs to be changed (the synthetic isn't gonna last any longer)
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If you change it every track trip, you're pissing mad $ away with synthetic, and with the way a nitrous car dirties up the oil anyway, I would definately be changing it every trip, synthetic or not, the oil's gonna be dirty with a big shot nitrous car after a track day, so it needs to be changed (the synthetic isn't gonna last any longer)
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With my new motor i don't warm it up i just drain it and clean my filter out.If people have so much crap in there motor that they have to warm it up they have bigger problems.I use to warm my old motor up just because it was faster to drain the hot oil.
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What is considered a big shot? Lets say your spraying a 150shot, do you think that the oil should be changed after you run a full bottle through it? Only reason I ask is this would be more of a PITA for a street car that is driven often.
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I's say 250+ I'm not hitting mine with alot (only 150 still, but it's down to 9.53 @ 142 now ) but I still change the oil every trip.
I warm it up for 2 reasons, #1 the thick oil drains a TON easier like Tuff said, and this way if there is anything in the motor, it will be in the oil that way.
I have not ONCE seen anything resembling water or any contaminent come out of the oil when I'm draining it, I just warm it out of habit. Plus I come home from the track, unload the car into the garage and that's it. When I change the oil I start it up, back it up and drive it up on the ramps, then jack the rear up and put it on jackstands, drain the oil, and while it's draining I nut and bolt the entire car to make sure nothing loosened up, by the time I'm done checking that stuff the oil is drained Just the procedure that I do, and after 200 runs on the car with ZERO failures, I guess it's been working.
I do cut every filter apart and see what's going on in there too, not once have I ever seen any reason to be concerned, also good IMO.
I warm it up for 2 reasons, #1 the thick oil drains a TON easier like Tuff said, and this way if there is anything in the motor, it will be in the oil that way.
I have not ONCE seen anything resembling water or any contaminent come out of the oil when I'm draining it, I just warm it out of habit. Plus I come home from the track, unload the car into the garage and that's it. When I change the oil I start it up, back it up and drive it up on the ramps, then jack the rear up and put it on jackstands, drain the oil, and while it's draining I nut and bolt the entire car to make sure nothing loosened up, by the time I'm done checking that stuff the oil is drained Just the procedure that I do, and after 200 runs on the car with ZERO failures, I guess it's been working.
I do cut every filter apart and see what's going on in there too, not once have I ever seen any reason to be concerned, also good IMO.
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My filter assy is an oberg with a 60 micron screen inside.So im able to take my filer apart and look for anything abnoramal.I just have to clean the screen and put it back together.
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hey guys ive been wondering if i should go with a differant oil. ive been using penzoil platinum 5w30 and a k&n filter.
my car is a 98 with 102,000 miles, at 100k i put in a cam and went with the high volume melling pump. its just bolt ons and a cam and now nitrous. after i make a pass with the nitrous i notice the oil pressure down slightly. just a tick under 40.
i know that pp 5w30 is thinner once warm then the gc 0w30
does any one make a non synthetic 0w40 or 5w40?
what should i use?
my car is a 98 with 102,000 miles, at 100k i put in a cam and went with the high volume melling pump. its just bolt ons and a cam and now nitrous. after i make a pass with the nitrous i notice the oil pressure down slightly. just a tick under 40.
i know that pp 5w30 is thinner once warm then the gc 0w30
does any one make a non synthetic 0w40 or 5w40?
what should i use?