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#7 way way lean

Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:18 PM
  #21  
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This is not the 1st LSX engine to have these issues w/ cyl. #7........at 1st, it was thought to have something to do w/ intake manifold flow tendencies. But, when the intake was installed backward on a dyno engine, #7 still had issues. The best theory out of a discussion we had was that there is some kind of coolant flow disruption or cavitation around the #7 cylinder. A colder plug and if u can, a bit more fuel for that cylinder under WOT/max load.
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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Whatever caused your detonation, you had it.

A melted ground strap will often take out a piston with it, so you definately need to get a plug that will live in there.
I'd switch to a race style plug that will give you a better chance to see what's going on before it disintegrates on you.
Autolite makes the AR-472 plugs that fit LS1 style heads.

I would have the injectors flow tested. If they are all good I'd assume you have a hotspot back there.
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 07:52 AM
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So as not to confuse the noobs. !2.1-12.5 AFR N/A is safe as a rule of thumb on most street driven LS cars. I target 11.5:1 for my big shot (DP w/ 35N jets) and run a #8 plug. I think that once I get my new intake plumbed, I'm going to run 1 jet bigger for fuel in cyl 7. When I do have a plug issue. That's the one.
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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just throwing this out there for further discussion (again).

regarding the newer intake/coolant routing as the OP has in his 2002 fbody, there is a different coolant line routing setup in the newer LS1's which some people speculate has something to do with the cylinder #7 issue.

when i did my LS6 intake swap, i had the coolant pipe kit on hand, but decided to grind the ribs down and keep the older coolant routing intact to help prevent the cylinder #7 issue.

i know GM must have done extensive testing before going with the new coolant routing setup, but maybe they didn't account for FI/N2O?

here's a photo of the older LS1 coolant line routing where you can see the coolant line running under the intake manifold to the back of the block.

Last edited by BobDoLe; Jan 1, 2009 at 11:38 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #25  
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ive got a friend that recently blew number 7 to pieces with a 125 shot on a all original 20 thousand mile motor.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by evilz
ive got a friend that recently blew number 7 to pieces with a 125 shot on a all original 20 thousand mile motor.
what year was it?
any idea how he set it up? wet shot?
timing?
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by evilz
ive got a friend that recently blew number 7 to pieces with a 125 shot on a all original 20 thousand mile motor.
I blew mine up at 15,000 miles, lol, so got your buddy beat. however, mine was a 285rwhp shot, lol.
Robert
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
All of that looks good on paper, but I missed the part where you included valve timing, valve angle, compression, quench, burn rate of fuel, etc......
I was just trying to keep it simple...
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 04:12 PM
  #29  
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02 ws6 125-100 wet. he never got a tune.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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what if i split it up and ran a dual stage 100 wet and 50 dry. would that help any? can i run a 50 shot on stock injectors?
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BobDoLe
just throwing this out there for further discussion (again).

regarding the newer intake/coolant routing as the OP has in his 2002 fbody, there is a different coolant line routing setup in the newer LS1's which some people speculate has something to do with the cylinder #7 issue.

when i did my LS6 intake swap, i had the coolant pipe kit on hand, but decided to grind the ribs down and keep the older coolant routing intact to help prevent the cylinder #7 issue.

i know GM must have done extensive testing before going with the new coolant routing setup, but maybe they didn't account for FI/N2O?

here's a photo of the older LS1 coolant line routing where you can see the coolant line running under the intake manifold to the back of the block.
Yea GM changed over for better cooling of some sort, it has help the roundy round guys out the most whom stay at a high rpm level for long periods of time. has something to do with steam pocket collection and thus heating up. i have it in one of my books if anyone really wants the scoop?

The single plain intakes have helped with the lean cylinder issue, over the front entrance plastic style intakes. better distribution.
Robert
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #32  
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So has anyone tried the ideas given to see if they help/work for a dry shot or other FI?

a) 1 step colder plug in #7 and #8 (i.e. tr6 in #1-6 and tr7 in #7-8)

b) Different flowmatched injectors as you go back (i.e. #1-2 normal, #3-4 at 1% more, #5-6 at 2% more, #7-8 at 3% more). Direct Port can get around this with tuning each cylinder, but dry can't

c) Some sort of different coolant setup for the rear cylinders?

These of course would not substitute for a better fuel system, as the injectors/pump/etc should be upgraded
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Strahley
So has anyone tried the ideas given to see if they help/work for a dry shot or other FI?

a) 1 step colder plug in #7 and #8 (i.e. tr6 in #1-6 and tr7 in #7-8)

b) Different flowmatched injectors as you go back (i.e. #1-2 normal, #3-4 at 1% more, #5-6 at 2% more, #7-8 at 3% more). Direct Port can get around this with tuning each cylinder, but dry can't

c) Some sort of different coolant setup for the rear cylinders?

These of course would not substitute for a better fuel system, as the injectors/pump/etc should be upgraded
The thing about a flowed DP dry is the fact that the EGTs will be much closer than a wet flowed DP. It's the nature of the beast, the nitrous is evenly distribuated compared to a wey hit getting it's fuel off a log with a solenoid on the end. The travel time for the gasoline is different for evry hole and thus the wet needs more fine tuning. many times the DP Dry once it's flowed needs no more tuning, but he wet always does. This can all be verified with reading of the plugs also. Dry rocks in so very many ways.

The other thing that we can do is to get rid of the front entrance plastic intakes and go with a central entrance single plain. this will go a long way in curing our couple cylinders that tend to run lean.

Flowing th injectors and using the richer ones in the lean holes is a good idea.
Robert
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Flowing th injectors and using the richer ones in the lean holes is a good idea.
Robert
How about the plugs though? Smart idea to go with a colder plug in #7 and #8, or is that not going to help with heat at all?
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Strahley
How about the plugs though? Smart idea to go with a colder plug in #7 and #8, or is that not going to help with heat at all?
It will help for sure.
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