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single vs dual stage on a 200 shot

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Old 01-17-2009 | 03:24 PM
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Default single vs dual stage on a 200 shot

Is it necessary to do a dual stage on a 200 shot or is the shot not too big for a single stage hit off the line? This would be on a forged 346.

Also, will a walboro intank pump be enough if the motor makes 410rwhp and then you add the 200?

thanks again.
Old 01-17-2009 | 03:25 PM
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You could run a progressive controller on it so the hit came in over 1 second or so.
Old 01-17-2009 | 03:32 PM
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Is it that much abuse if you do the 200 in one single hit?
Old 01-17-2009 | 03:46 PM
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if your motor was built to take it then it should be fine. Stages are used for two reasons. Keep cyclinder pressure down in the lower rpms and the other is for traction reasons. I cant tell you if you will need to split it or not, but it certainly couldnt hurt.

If you have the hotwire kit you might be ok. I have seen them max out around 600-650 rwhp.
Old 01-17-2009 | 03:58 PM
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It's just a budget forged 346....I shouldn't have traction issues and I probably won't spray until 4000rpm. I dunno if 4000rpm is considered "lower rpms".
Old 01-17-2009 | 04:07 PM
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I split mine up with a similar setup. 200 with 100 off the line, and another 100 .75-1.5 seconds later. My car wouldn't hook with 200 off the hit, but would cut 1.3 60's with the delay in the second shot.

You just have to play with it. If your can can take 200 off the hit, it would be a whole lot cheaper to keep it in one kit.
Old 01-17-2009 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jmill96Z
I split mine up with a similar setup. 200 with 100 off the line, and another 100 .75-1.5 seconds later. My car wouldn't hook with 200 off the hit, but would cut 1.3 60's with the delay in the second shot.

You just have to play with it. If your can can take 200 off the hit, it would be a whole lot cheaper to keep it in one kit.
Ya, i jsut wasn't sure if a forged 346 could take the abuse in one hit.
Old 01-17-2009 | 04:13 PM
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Mine did, and all I have is rods and pistons.It would help to know a little more about your setup. My stall flashes at over 5K on the spray, so IMO there's less stress on the launch due to the higher RPMs.
Old 01-17-2009 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dubrado
Ya, i jsut wasn't sure if a forged 346 could take the abuse in one hit.
entirely dependent on what parts were used and how it was assembled. Your engine builder would know best, but if you post a lot of detail on your setup we could certainly help.
Old 01-17-2009 | 04:49 PM
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just mahle pistons and poly rings. I beam rods, and close to 11:1 compression.
Old 01-17-2009 | 07:36 PM
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Honestly, it's all in the amount of risk you want to take with your motor. I have the same rods and pistons, but I don't really care what happens to my motor. Sure everything has worked so far, but I can't tell you that my stuff's not gonna blow up on the next pass. Best advise I can give you is just start small and work your way up.
Old 01-17-2009 | 11:14 PM
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If you can take the 200 off the line, or in the first 60', then a second stage would still be good to sneak another 50 in. it's a great tuning tool and the options open up widely. You could even add the 2nd stage with a button and on and on, then maybe a 3rd stage. So it may not be needed, but man, down the road you will really see times when it can used.
Robert
Old 01-19-2009 | 11:36 AM
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3/4 of the race is done in the first 60ft/ With that being said if the car will plant the power to the ground and the motor can take it I would hit it with the full 200 at once.

If you have a built 346 I see no reason why the motor can not take 200. I have hit stock motors out of the hole on 200.

Adding a second stage or simply adding a progressive to what you have is nother option if traction is an issue.

Dave
Old 01-19-2009 | 12:49 PM
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good info guys, thanks for the help.



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