6point7s14

iTrader: (3)

I have a 12 to 1 408 and have a 150 Harris wet kit. I have curently tr6s gapped at 32 running on the motor and race gas. Is a colder plug needed. Thanks in advance. If u need mOre info I will submit it

WS6Power

you are fine

camarojunky74

iTrader: (14)

well, dont you think you should read your plugs, then go from there, it never ceases to amaze me that people with say your fine, but not even mention the proper way to check.

read your plugs dude there is a sticky at the top of this section.

edit, i would probably start at a tr6 then go from there

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

12:1 dcr + any spray = TR7 or better

Sigforty

I would have to agree. I was melting 6's on my 383 with a 100 shot.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i use the ngk tr7ie(iridiums) on my 408 with spray but have only sprayed it on the dyno so far.

NastyC6

iTrader: (77)

Autolite AR3933's gapped at .024 unless u want ground straps beating ur valveseats............

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Yes ditch the TR6's and start with a non-projected tip heat range 8 (NGK). Let me know if you need a part number.

Nick

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

I'm with Nick, start with an 8.

I run 7's in my motor N/A and 11's with both guns on.... a cold plug wont hurt it but to hot will melt some ****!

6point7s14

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys. I would like that part number for the 8s and a good place to find them

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

B8EFS stock number 1049. If you need an alternative to the NGK a set of Autolites AR474's will do the trick too. Both are non-projected tips.

Nick

6point7s14

iTrader: (3)

thank you so much.... hate to keep asking but what would be a good gap

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

If you don't ask, you never learn so don't be shy. I always tell people to start a little on the larger side and work your way down as needed. I would start them in the .038 range and if you need to re-gap them due to blow out go it incriments of ~ .002.

6point7s14

iTrader: (3)

thank you so much

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

whats the part number for the non projected 7's, while we are at it?

dont know if i want to run the 7's or 8's on a cam only 346 on a big shot. just a track car. has 6's in in on a 150 and was fine but want to go colder for the 2 stage.

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

im gonna guess NGK 3346 which is the NGK BR7EF?

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

That's the one.

Nick

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I run an autolite AR 3933 gapped at 35 with my 13.5 to 1 402 and a 150 shot.

Only way to find the right one, is start cold and work your way warmer, and shut the car off after the run, so you can pull them and they won't have the decel and idling on them.

I've got a bunch of 3932's which are a #10, and some NGK 10's and 11's for when I get the car back out

BigDB

his compression is 12:1 static, dynamic will be lower depending on his cam timing. Read the plugs, Im running AR93 autolites but im on a 300 hit with 12:1 static and around 8.5:1 dynamic. when goin with a colder plug and higher cylinder pressures a smaller gap will needed to help the spark jump the gap to the electrod. NGKs are thought to come apart/ show signs of detonation or preignition before autolites.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

NGK plugs are good for getting a tune dialed in, being that they show the detonation earlier, it's a better plug to get a setup going with. Make a 1/8th mile hit, shut the car off and pull the plugs and see what they look like.

Once you have it tuned in and looking good on the NGK's, swap over to an autolite as they do stand up better and tend to stay cleaner, at least that's what I have found.