To much timming to hot of a plug for a 200 shot. post a pic of your perfect plugs please. what was the a/f? and if you take to top of an ar the ring land might already be hurt.

 

But since you know it all spend 2K and upgrade everything in the fuel system that will fix it LOLOLOLOL

 

If the car only goes 10.6 on a 200 then the tunes not right. a cam only car full wieght on a 150 should go ~10.6

 

damn thats still a decent pass

 

Post up the jets you are using in each.
also stages need less timing for the same shot.

AR94 is a projected tip plug correct?
If you know enough to not take these guys advice then you would know to not use that plug.
If #7 is black then it is probably hurt (pinch ring and oil gets by)

Some lessons are learned the hard way on N20.... I've had my share.

 

My car put down over 530 on a Mustang dyno with stock rails and the Racetronix PnP pump...

 

It's possible that a ringland could be hurt. I ran a compression test on bank 1. #7 was the best @ 150 psi. All readings were the same as the previous year and oil didn't notably bump up the pressure. 2 step colder plug is too hot for a 200 shot on a cam only car. It has a cut back ground strap. My wideband is in bank 2 and it read 11.9-12.0 through the whole pass. A picture from my camera isn't going to show much details of the plugs. I'll cut the threads off and snap a picture.

injectors $300
stand alone $350
Racetronix kit $250

I never claimed to know it all. If I came across that way I appoligize. Troubleshooting over the internet doesn't work very well.


It has 131,000 miles. It's had a hard life and a lot of nitrous through it. I know it only takes one hiccup to end the engines life. Let's look @ the mph instead of 1/4 mile. 128 is what is has trapped. That 10.6 run was on a spinning 1.52 60', but is still my PB.

 

1st stage HSW Sudden impact single nozzle dry. Nitrous .052
2nd stage NX wet single shark nozzle Nitrous .052 Fuel .028

 

The plug was just plain and simple too hot of a heat range for that kind of cylinder pressure. You may have gotten lucky and it just passed out the exhaust without any damage. With the kind of cylinder pressure that you probably don't understand comes from stacking 2 kits on top of each other...you have to have your A game on. An AR94 is not your A game. Its a projected tip for one and way too hoot of a heat range to be considered for anything more then an NA plug. A non projected tip 2 steps colder then what that AR94 equates to will help that motor along and most likely pick up some more power on the bottle. 15* timing is probably not the cause of the catastrophe but there is a such thing as too little timing also not helping but hurting. 128 mph is not impressive for 200 pills on top of a motor that makes 380 at the wheels already. That's just coming from someone more experienced then yourself and a few others in this thread who have a grasp of what it should be running. Well over 130 is where you should be given the plugs are right heat range and the gap is tight around .026 to .028. Cutting the ground strap back on NGKs has produced some ET for me. I just rather buy the Autolite plugs since its already done for me. lol

 

Anyone have a p/n for the non projected tip plugs?

 

NGK gasket seat is R5671A-8, 9, or 10 depending on the heat range you want to run. They will work fine on a taper seat just be sure and seat the gasket.

Autolite heat range 8 is a Ar3911, AR 3910 for a 9 heat range.

 

So, you guys think he would've gotten away with using NGK TR7 (BR7EF) non-projected plugs, even though they're the same heat range as the AR94s? I just installed a set of TR7s gapped at .032 for upping my shot (NX wet 175-200). I don't wanna make a mistake of NOT going with colder plugs.

Weird, Nathan and I were just chatting the other day about plugs.

 

So what you're saying is that I'm stuck with a gasket type plug on a tapered plug type head? Is there a different between and AR92 and AR3911 besides the taper and gasket?

I'll give the autolites a try. I hope that you are right. Maybe I can throw some timing back in it. If you are right, you'll have some drinks on me coming your way.

 

so question is for a 200-250 shot car would you run a non projected resistor plug like the NGK BR7EF or a projected non resistor plug like the NGK R5724-8

yes ones a 7 and ones a 8 but im really looking for advantages disadvantages between the projected vs non projected, resistor vs non resistor?

 

Stay away from projected tip plugs and N20.
I'd say 150 or more start looking into non-projected plugs... heat range will depend on how much nitrous and how much power it makes N/A.
A cold plug wont hurt power much at all (maybe 5hp if its 1 step to cold) but a hot one will burn some **** up.

I run 7's on the motor and 11's with both guns on.

 

200 I would start with a 8-9 (get the tune up right)
Then 250 goto the next step colder.

 

Correct me if I am wrong.

resistor = projected tip
non resistor = non projected tip

 

Bank 1 has the two cylinders that are known for going lean 7 and 5. If you went lean on the dry shot in one of these cylinders it could kill the plug. Since you are running MAf and O2's that one dead plug would cause the computer to lean out that bank. Being one plug down the O2 reads rich and cuts fuel. This would then cause the other plugs to start melting ground staps. I had this happen in my Z06 except on the passenger side.

 

Good point.

Dont let the stock O2's correct. best bet is tune the car and turn them off.

 

ok cool so for a 200 cam only car...( been 10.30's 130 blowing through the converter) run a 8 or so like the NGK B8EFS which is stock# NGK-1049...?