Nitrous & Fuel Solenoid
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 182
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From: Spring TX
Nitrous & Fuel Solenoid Ok I finnaly installed everything and sealed up all leaks (was a bitch!) rewired a few missed steps, because the diagrams were for seperate accessories! Now Everything works! But one problem 
Both the nitrous and fuel solenoid click and spray gas into the air intake just by arming. The bottle is off so just gas and the car floods. Went over all wiring and programming again with Chris (Nitro Daves) and he told me it is because I ran the 12 volt trigger and purge (through fire wall) together (2) conductor wire and is now getting solenoid chatter!
So I ran one single new wire from arm switch (12 volt trigger) home run and it still does it! (no ware near the purge) The solenoid should not kick on untill 3000 rpm's but kicks on as soon as you push the arm button. Any ideas?
Both the nitrous and fuel solenoid click and spray gas into the air intake just by arming. The bottle is off so just gas and the car floods. Went over all wiring and programming again with Chris (Nitro Daves) and he told me it is because I ran the 12 volt trigger and purge (through fire wall) together (2) conductor wire and is now getting solenoid chatter!
So I ran one single new wire from arm switch (12 volt trigger) home run and it still does it! (no ware near the purge) The solenoid should not kick on untill 3000 rpm's but kicks on as soon as you push the arm button. Any ideas?
Ok I finnaly installed everything and sealed up all leaks (was a bitch!) rewired a few missed steps, because the diagrams were for seperate accessories! Now Everything works! But one problem
Both the nitrous and fuel solenoid click and spray gas into the air intake just by arming. The bottle is off so just gas and the car floods. Went over all wiring and programming again with Chris (Nitro Daves) and he told me it is because I ran the 12 volt trigger and purge (through fire wall) together (2) conductor wire and is now getting solenoid chatter!
So I ran one single new wire from arm switch (12 volt trigger) home run and it still does it! (no ware near the purge) The solenoid should not kick on untill 3000 rpm's but kicks on as soon as you push the arm button. Any ideas?
Both the nitrous and fuel solenoid click and spray gas into the air intake just by arming. The bottle is off so just gas and the car floods. Went over all wiring and programming again with Chris (Nitro Daves) and he told me it is because I ran the 12 volt trigger and purge (through fire wall) together (2) conductor wire and is now getting solenoid chatter!
So I ran one single new wire from arm switch (12 volt trigger) home run and it still does it! (no ware near the purge) The solenoid should not kick on untill 3000 rpm's but kicks on as soon as you push the arm button. Any ideas?
Nick
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 182
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From: Spring TX
Thanks for the help guys, I went over all the wiring with Chris at Nitrous Outlet and there were some problems. After rewiring the two wires (white off window switch) and (Yellow) everything seemed to be ok. Then go to arm and both soleniods fire twice. This sprayed gas into the intake and now the car wont start. How long should I wait to restart? I am taking this over to Gforce. Next week
Window switch & cable TB (6 speed) 1998
Window switch & cable TB (6 speed) 1998
11 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,537
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From: Was New Orleans, but swam to Baton Rouge
Who makes the window switch you have? How do you set the switch up? Give us some pictures or tell us what wires you have going where.
Not sure what you have, but this is how I would have something similar wired. I would have power and ground to the arm switch. The arm switch output would go my window switch. The window switch would then output to the WOT switch, and from the WOT finally to the nitrous relay. As for the noids they would be wired from the relay and a ground. Now some changes may be needed if you have a more advanced window switch or FPS and other switches being used. What you need to do is disconnect the relay from the system and wire up a light to the input from the Window switch to the relay. Then you could use the test light to start checking modifications from there and keep the noids from firing.
Not sure what you have, but this is how I would have something similar wired. I would have power and ground to the arm switch. The arm switch output would go my window switch. The window switch would then output to the WOT switch, and from the WOT finally to the nitrous relay. As for the noids they would be wired from the relay and a ground. Now some changes may be needed if you have a more advanced window switch or FPS and other switches being used. What you need to do is disconnect the relay from the system and wire up a light to the input from the Window switch to the relay. Then you could use the test light to start checking modifications from there and keep the noids from firing.
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