Hey guys, I know I don't have an LS1 but you guys have a better nitrous forum than any modular nitrous forum i've seen so I thought you might be able to help more.

Well the first night at the track with the nitrous didn't go as planned. My setup:
1998 4.6 DOHC
HSW single nozzle wet kit with bottle heater and purge
Sniper nitrous tune
255LPH Fuel pump
stock 24lb injectors
NGK TR6's gapped at .040

I got the bottle filled yesterday morning and tested it out on the highway for a few quick bursts. I put the 100 nitrous jet and 125 fuel jet in. It felt good on the highway. At the track, I hit the spray right after 3000rpm in 1st gear and it bogged down hard. I coasted back to the staging lanes. It honestly felt like it was only spraying fuel. I rechecked the soliniods, everything was working fine. I tested it out at the back of the track and it was bogging down when it hit. I changed the fuel jet to a 100 jet and retested and it hit like a freight train, very good hit through 1st and 2nd gear. My next run down the 1/4 mile, I hit it in 1st at 3000rpm and it felt OK but it started breaking up in the upper rpm's so I let off again and coasted. The bottle pressure was around 1000psi all night. Any help is appreciated...

 

Is the gap a little big?

 

Could be a gap problems with the breaking up, but you should really be able to monitor your A/F instead of just throwing different jets on the car and reporting what feels slow and what hits like a frieght train...

 

Never put the wrong feul jet in. More fuel is not good. Most kits are rich from the get so adding more fuel is not good. I would sya its a weak bottle fill. you can get any bottle to 1000 even with **** in it.

Go weigh the bottle with your bathroom scale.

 

What does a bad bottle fill mean? I know there was a good amount of nitrous in it, I could see it come out when I purged and I checked to make sure it was actually coming out the nozzle as well... it's a 15lb bottle and I filled it up with 13lbs of nitrous...

 

IF the mother bottle sits to long or if your using a pump and the mother bottle is empty. We have had bottles that were filled from the end of a mother bottle. weigh good but hit like crap. switch them out and its good. tell us how you filled it.

 

I agree with the above the pump can suck. Where I go they freeze the bottle
and fill it by gravity, NO AIR!

 

I had a speed shop fill it for me.

 

All great advice from everyone already. The first issue is that you shouldn't be mixing jets. Keep the proper fuel jet in there and verify a/f ratio. Second, pull the gap down on the plugs...that's probably the high end miss. Also pull the bottle and verify its weight. You can still achieve close to a 1000psi on a near empty bottle. Also verify that the bottle is positioned correctly in the brackets as per the install manual. If you have any questions please feel free to contact anyone of us here at HSW.

Nick

 

Are you running a window switch with rich/lean shutdown ?

 

I have a digital MSD window switch but haven't installed it yet. I manually turn it on around 3000rpm and the shift point is commanded at 6000rpm but on the nitrous when it hits clean it shifts at 6500rpm which gives me plenty of room before it can hit the rev limiter which is set at 7000rpm.

 

Well i'm gonna try to get it on the dyno soon. And Im pulling the plugs today to inspect them and regap them to .035.

 

Thats Dangerous and frankly not smart. Run the window switch or by a edge programmer for HSW, it will save your engine if the happens. It would have sut your fuel selinod off immedatley when you went to rich. Rich isnt always a good thing I have seen cracked rings before from someone getting a bad tune first off then running to rich and bomb there went the pistion ring on #7. Run a window switch it is a saftey issue, it is not worth running into bigger issues when you could by the edge programmer for $149 bucks.

 

The MSD window switch is just that, a window switch. It doesn't have an A/F lean shutdown feature. Like I said I have it sitting in my garage but I don't feel like installing it and adding another variable into my situation. I want the nitrous to work like it's supposed to before I add any more accessories to the system. And as soon as I felt it bog I let off of course...

 

To each there own man, I would buy an edge. Worth the headache. Saftey vs. New Motor

 

How does the Edge tell if you're running too lean or rich??

 

On the programmer it will have different features it says when it is turned on. If not activated it will just show cars rpm's while driving. When activated the screen will show armed, then when you decide to spray the screen will read spraying.When or if there is a lean out condition or a rich condition it will stop the spraying of both solenoid's and will read on the screen rich or lean. This way you have a parameter of spraying 3k to 6k and if there is any situation of lean or rich it shuts it off for you reading your a/f. It is a great design and gives you multiple options in nitrous control and stages. One of the best 150 buck deal I have ever done. No need to run into lean out conditions or rich conditions and be selling a car or buying a new motor.

HSW if I missed anything feel free to chime in

 

It uses your wideband setup or your stock 02 sensor to determine a/f. On the Microedge you can set up the min/max a/f to shut off the nitrous system. Very nice piece. I use to run the MSD, but I was having a lot of issues with traction in 1st gear. I switched it out with the microedge. You can set gear lockouts, delays, etc.

 

Nice I forgot the multi gear lock outs and delays...

 

Sounds rich. Gap is too big as well. Bring it down to about .030.