stephen p

hey, i have a '80 z/28, its full weight full interior car, 28-10-15 hoosier slicks. 3:73 geared 12 bolt, th350 trans, 3200 stall, and an 11:1 418 bbc. i have been hitting it with 150-175 wet, and will probably jet up to 200..

here is the deal, i'm kinda new to auto cars, and also somewhat new to sub 12 second cars. when i launch, i generally stall it to about 1500, let off the brake, and nail it.

it sticks pretty good, infact it dead hooks but i feel like i could be leaving allot harder, and know allot of people leave on the kit. and i know there is really no defenate answer, and i just need to get out, and play with it.

i have hear conflicting storys some say to grab the button and then get in the throttle.. any way, please try not to laugh too hard at this newb type post, but if someone could give me some pointers, that would be cool



here is a video of my car. there are two races on there. the first one, i stumbled because my bottle pressure was low... the second race every thing worked, and if you listen closely, you can hear when i get into the kit.. oh, and it was jetted for 150 on that run

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hoolCamaro.flv

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If the car sticks, the leave on the kit, if there is going to be a suspension or traction issue, you will see it there. Get the selinoids as close as you can to the intake to have the kit hit sooner and not have any delay.

Also I would be looking at a better stall, if the foot brakes is only leaving it slightly better then stock then I would be looking at something more aggressive. Seems a little too tight. Just a stall change and nothing else may be that night to day difference.

pyro719

iTrader: (5)

Are you running a window switch? If so what rpm does the kit activate?

stephen p

it's carb'd, and it has a plate under it btw.. also, the switch just puts 12 volts to the solenoids.. so when i grab the switch it fires

pyro719

iTrader: (5)

Get yourself a window switch. That way you can set it to whatever rpm you want it to activate at." They Say not to spray below 3,000 rpm but there are plenty who do. I'm at 2500 right now. Im going down to 2000 to get it spray out the hole.

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

Put it on a WOT switch, no real reason for a window switch unless you want to be really safe.

You should be stalling it up to at least 2200 or so. When you launch it's a see-saw action, let off the brake as you stand on the throttle, spray should come on almost instantly. When the spray comes on the converter will flash over 3000rpm(if you have a decent converter), so there's no worry about backfiring.

Here's my mustang going mid-high 10s. You can hear there's no delay between where I go WOT and when it sprays. Foot brake with the WOT switch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwS65EBPtQs

Xtremespeed

iTrader: (25)

You don't have to foot brake it high to get a good 60 ft. More than likely it will flash higher with a lower foot brake. I only brake mine to around 1200 and it flashes around 4500. If I brake it to 2500 it only flashes about 4100. A window switch and a wot switch would make it a lot easier. That way it will come on when it gets to the correct rpm so you don't have to worry about spraying too early and damaging your engine. It's also easier on the transmission, as you don't spray through the shifts.

stephen p

well, i don't really want to sink any money into this kit. the reason i'm asking is, i've got a money race lined up this weekend, and i'd like to get the most out of my car. i will be pulling the kit off afterwards and selling it.. eventually i'd like to go direct port. i know that sounds lame, but this is all kinda eleventh hr

SickSixSpeed

yeah stall it up some more if you can and if it grabs, spray it.