Nitrous A/F and weather changes?
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From: Carol Stream Il.
Nitrous A/F and weather changes? Nitrous rookie here wondering about jetting and the weather. Should I be changing the fuel jet on my plate kit if the DA is off quite a bit from where the car was dyno'd at? On the dyno it was 11.3, which I take it is a little leaner under full load, correct?
The other day at the track, with the DA around 3000 the car backfired and bent the TB blades. I know I should learn to read plugs and will soon start, but for now should I adjust the fuel jet for the DA at hand?
I'm using a 62N + 41F. Would a 39 or 40F be more appropriate if it's a bad air day? Thanks for any help or advice you might have.
The other day at the track, with the DA around 3000 the car backfired and bent the TB blades. I know I should learn to read plugs and will soon start, but for now should I adjust the fuel jet for the DA at hand?
I'm using a 62N + 41F. Would a 39 or 40F be more appropriate if it's a bad air day? Thanks for any help or advice you might have.
Way to rich. You want to be around 12.5 (verify with the plug) .its a good starting point. how much timming total and retard?
your fuel jet should be like 32-34. As it gets hot out the kit will get richer you probably were in the 10.5 range.
your fuel jet should be like 32-34. As it gets hot out the kit will get richer you probably were in the 10.5 range.
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From: Carol Stream Il.
Thanks for the fast reply guys. I have my eye on the LM-1 for a wideband. As far as the A/F, I was told it might be more like 11.6 under full load compared to dyno's 11.3, what's your take?
Initial timing on my LT1 is 33 and I'm pulling 5 degrees with a Mallory 685 box. I'm also using the TR6s which I will also change out to the 7s in the near future.
Initial timing on my LT1 is 33 and I'm pulling 5 degrees with a Mallory 685 box. I'm also using the TR6s which I will also change out to the 7s in the near future.
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From: Carol Stream Il.
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Most cars will be between 12.3 and 13.3 we start at 12.5 but id take 9 out of 33 to start. put the 34 fuel jet in and make an 1/8 mile pass. see if it picks up. pull a plug and see where the timming mark. keep it just on the tim for the beginning. lean it out until it slows down then go back. watching the timming mark.
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Just wondering if I have this right. The closer the timing mark is to the tip of the plug the colder the plug was during the run. As it moves towards the bend it means the plug was hotter during the run. Is this correct?
Adding fuel will move the timing mark to the colder side, leaning it out will put more heat in.
The fuel ring is at the base of the plug where the porcelin meets the metal.(hard to see on most plugs)
Should look like you drew a line on it with a pencil.
A thick line is richer, no line is lean.
Here is a pic of my plug last year....
The fuel ring is at the base of the plug where the porcelin meets the metal.(hard to see on most plugs)
Should look like you drew a line on it with a pencil.
A thick line is richer, no line is lean.
Here is a pic of my plug last year....
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From: Carol Stream Il.
No hijacking that I can see, we're all trying to learn. ATV and Shiznity along with a few others seem to have a lot of knowledge that their always willing to share. I do appreciate it because I know that knowledge was through hard work and expence.
Shiznity, if I pull the 9 out of the 33 do I really need to change all the plugs to start over? Their a fresh set with two runs on them. Can I put two or 3 easy to reach ones in to take a reading? I'll have to stop on the return road as I'm a small dog with limited resources. Do you think I have a chance reading the fuel line with my 10x loop? I also have one that has a light built in. And last but not least, which are the problem cylinders on an LT1, I forget.
Thanks much to all for helping out. Rick
Shiznity, if I pull the 9 out of the 33 do I really need to change all the plugs to start over? Their a fresh set with two runs on them. Can I put two or 3 easy to reach ones in to take a reading? I'll have to stop on the return road as I'm a small dog with limited resources. Do you think I have a chance reading the fuel line with my 10x loop? I also have one that has a light built in. And last but not least, which are the problem cylinders on an LT1, I forget.
Thanks much to all for helping out. Rick
Yeah you can just put 2-3 in. if you find 1 that has the most timming use that cylander to tune off of until you get a handle on it. on a 7 or 8 its hard to see down the bottom but on a 10 or 11 its easyer. if you have a 10x you should be fine. you cna also use the barrel at the top to see fuel but you have to kill it and do not idle on it at all. we try to get 3/4 of a barrel of fuel at the top to start. where you end up depends on what the car wants. I ay take 9 out but you ill probably put 2 or so back in but when leaning it out you want to be safe on the timming and work up.
I have just recently started reading plugs. I have a H/C with 16* total timing and according to the plug and fuel ring its perfect. A dyno reported it to be pretty rich but I dont have alot of faith in there wideband.