Forged internals, 42#, racetronics, HSW
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Forged internals, 42#, racetronics, HSW
I've got forged rods & pistons running on a stock LS1 crank in a LS6 alum block. Lucas 42# injectors, racetronix pump & hotwire kit. My main line is a 4AN line. I've ran a 150 shot no problem and tuned it on my own, running ~11.8 AFR according to my LC-1.
I have two kits right now, but just picked up a set of the powermax solenoids.
I want to know how big I can go within reason. I have enough stuff to do a dual bottle 2 stage setup, but then I need to find another place to put the bottles as right now I have the single bottle hidden in the passenger rear fender.
250 would rock. 300 would be scary, but I'd love it. Just not sure I have enough supporting mods to push it that far.
Thanks for any suggestions!
I have two kits right now, but just picked up a set of the powermax solenoids.
I want to know how big I can go within reason. I have enough stuff to do a dual bottle 2 stage setup, but then I need to find another place to put the bottles as right now I have the single bottle hidden in the passenger rear fender.
250 would rock. 300 would be scary, but I'd love it. Just not sure I have enough supporting mods to push it that far.
Thanks for any suggestions!
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A 4an line under perfect conditions can support a 400hp hit, but that means no 90° fittings and things like that that will inhibit flow. I have done 280 and 300rwhp shots in dual stage with a 4an line. So it's really depenant on what you have between the bottle and the noids and how long the line is. Of course if you have the money lying around a 6an would be great. You can see the last numbers in my sig on a 4an and no limit in site, yet, but am sure it's coming.
Robert
Robert
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Robert
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Robert
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Stage one is DP Dry and stage 2 and 3 are Dry Plate. The 1st two stages are controlled with the MicroEdge WS/TPS and the 3rd stage is on a button run thru an MSD pill style WS. I do plan on running my 1st stage progressed, but at that time I will change stage 2 to stage one, as I have it wired up with weather pack connectors so I can choose any stage to be run with any controller set-up and that makes it a much more versatile system. The reason I don't want to use my DP Dry as a progressed system is the fact that it currently has two, but will have 3 solenoids (one per side/bank and one big safety) and progressing can be a little hard on noids and well progressing just one noid on one plate stage will allow the percentage of possible problems to be greatly reduced.
Robert
Robert
I went ahead and got the stuff to upgrade the main feed and the solenoids to -6. Also bumped the n side of the nozzle to -4. Got a FP safety switch, just in case. But that doesn't protect against rich conditions. Finally, I added a purge setup.
DP isn't an option to me yet, so I'm looking to do the most I can safely with one or two nozzles fed off that -6 main line. Best I can do is window switch the stage(s) when I want them to come in. So maybe try a 200 shot, but don't have a progressive controller. So that's a lot to hit the car with @ once.
Finally, what plugs (thinking tr56) should I run on this much spray? How bad will the cooler plugs hurt me when I'm not spraying?
Thanks all!
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#8
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That's why i chose the MicroEdge WS to have the Dual stage capability. That's a great option over progressing and can be made to perform well. I have my second stage locked out of 1st gear via the Microedge, but there are ways to do it, at least 6-speeds, with any controller or kits, with micro sw. I like the NGK #7 as my street/strip plug as it does not have the extended tip like the TR6, but many have great success with the 6 on hits below 200.
Robert
Robert