running a Big dry hit?
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
running a Big dry hit? the preposed setup entails:
-6 feed 2 10# bottles, NX pro solenoid(s)
42# injectors, intank pump, C-12, Tr8's gapped .032-.038 timing dropped waay down.
im intriuged as to if there would be any reason why i can just work my way up to 300+ ? i've got all kinds of jets (in pairs
) 18-85 access to a wideband, and a dyno now. anyone else doing this? spraying before the maf and having it add in the extra fuel? what tables if any should i be modifying in the ECM? perhaps setting up the maf to tell the motor to go super rich by a certian gms/cyl load? anyone done this?
it'd be absolutely pimp to be able to do this and still run well n/a..
-6 feed 2 10# bottles, NX pro solenoid(s)
42# injectors, intank pump, C-12, Tr8's gapped .032-.038 timing dropped waay down.
im intriuged as to if there would be any reason why i can just work my way up to 300+ ? i've got all kinds of jets (in pairs
) 18-85 access to a wideband, and a dyno now. anyone else doing this? spraying before the maf and having it add in the extra fuel? what tables if any should i be modifying in the ECM? perhaps setting up the maf to tell the motor to go super rich by a certian gms/cyl load? anyone done this?it'd be absolutely pimp to be able to do this and still run well n/a..
as long as the maf will register the N20, you should be fine..
be careful of reaching the maximum maf frequency, and running lean.
other than that, you should be fine, but i don't think the stock maf will register 300 worth of n20 on top of a healthy ls1.
Ryan
be careful of reaching the maximum maf frequency, and running lean.
other than that, you should be fine, but i don't think the stock maf will register 300 worth of n20 on top of a healthy ls1.
Ryan
It will definately work, one of the board members is already doing it. He's making over 700 rwhp with his dry kit. You will have to redo the MAF tables though. Good luck!
Jeffrey
Jeffrey
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
Jeffrey, thanks for your imput. i know that you had some sucess with this in on your factory shortblock. i'll look into the maf re-scaling. shouldnt be too difficult.
i talked frequently with al, (383lq4ss) about this stuff, but all he kept mentioning was "custom tuning" well, im my own tuner, and that dosent really break down the details as much as i needed.
i talked frequently with al, (383lq4ss) about this stuff, but all he kept mentioning was "custom tuning" well, im my own tuner, and that dosent really break down the details as much as i needed.
It will definately work. As for the tuning I am not the tuning guru. That would be Jeremy @ Fasterproms.com
He did the MAF setup...he also made it so its 28 degrees timing on motor and 20-22 degrees when the juice comes on. No changing programs. Its actually fairly easy...but you need to do some datalogging to plot your nitrous timing Map a certain "gap" from your all motor timing map.
You could also do a two stage wet/dry and still get the same benifits as long as you spray the dry first.
He did the MAF setup...he also made it so its 28 degrees timing on motor and 20-22 degrees when the juice comes on. No changing programs. Its actually fairly easy...but you need to do some datalogging to plot your nitrous timing Map a certain "gap" from your all motor timing map.
You could also do a two stage wet/dry and still get the same benifits as long as you spray the dry first.
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i would think that that wouldnt be too safe. im sure it could be done, but i wouldnt shoot morte than a 200 shot on any plenum type system. if you want to go 300, do it right with a direct port wet kit, its the safest way, and it would porobably easier as well.
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From: H-town
so are you going to try it vents. that will be cool. i am going to have to wait a while before i get a new N2O kit. i am going to pay the car off first to get rid of that payment. then i will have more money to throw at it. about that dry kit, it will work but i suggest getting a scanner that has more frames per second like a tech2 for the tunning. you really dont want to miss anything.
Asian...I have been spraying 260+ dry shot for alomost a year now. Glitch free and no problems. If a direct port is safer...its not by any measurable margin. And you cant beat the simplicity of an all dry setup. Just make sure your tuner knows how to scale the injectors/MAF.
your probably right about the dry system being safe when done correctly, but i just dont see how its possible for the juice to be equally distributed all the time. are you set up to always run rich? like as in youll most likely never run lean? it just scares me with that big a shot...300 is no joke. i heard 250 is literally scary. 383, what does it feel like when you spray 260+hp? set you back like no other? Would you be willing to tape a $50 bill to the windshield and let whoever can reah it keep it? Just curious.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
Asianice,
yep, thats about it
and, no you run around just like you normally would n/a. not rich all the time, that'd be imprectical for those of us that drive the heck out of our cars. (like me) it only goes super rich when you hit the button. the maf registers it, kicks down the timing, and adds in the extra fuel. pretty slick. im just wondering now how big a shot i can run on pump gas alone.
yep, thats about it
and, no you run around just like you normally would n/a. not rich all the time, that'd be imprectical for those of us that drive the heck out of our cars. (like me) it only goes super rich when you hit the button. the maf registers it, kicks down the timing, and adds in the extra fuel. pretty slick. im just wondering now how big a shot i can run on pump gas alone.
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From: texas
Originally Posted by Vents
oh and steeve,
i think i'll just talk kyle into buying efi live for us all
i think i'll just talk kyle into buying efi live for us all
, and i am gonna 
you vents when i get down there. . learn how to tune a n/a engine first, then worry about sprayin' 
Actually I said I have been spraying atleast a 260. Sometimes more 
My 383 only dynoes in the 42x range when setup for juice. The last dyno netted 707rwhp. So thats roughly 280-290 range actual.
Tag...Im using the nozzles that came with the 5177 kit..still has one on either side of my Wiser lid. Just that now one saide sprays 130-140 and the other side sprays 130-140.
Asian...Nitrous flowing down the intake will flow darn near perfectly even, or atleast nearly as even as the air would. Its the fuel you have to worry about since its much denser. Using the MAf to tune for the dry shot can give you alot of fine control as well. But yes...I keep Af around 11.5-11.9 to 1. I also retard plenty of timing and run 100 octane unleaded. All those combined will keep you safe if you have one cylinder a percent or two leaner than the rest. Basically tune for the leanest cylinder. Read plugs, check knocks, and use wideband on a dyno.
And yes it feels great when you slam the full shot on it. We predominatly race from a roll over a long bridge here in Tampa. Usually from 40-150. I havent been beat with this new setup yet. I have raced 800 rwhp single Turbo Supras, ROE supercharged Vipers (the notorious Miami Viper), and plenty of other cars. All have fallen
I am currently changing a few things to make the first stage a 200 dry and second stage 200 wet. Or possibly 3 stages. 200 dry/ 100 wet/ 100 wet at 3000/4500/5500 rpm respectively. Spin to 6800 rpm total.
A few pics of my "simple" setup
two stage
nitrogen push
My 383 only dynoes in the 42x range when setup for juice. The last dyno netted 707rwhp. So thats roughly 280-290 range actual.
Tag...Im using the nozzles that came with the 5177 kit..still has one on either side of my Wiser lid. Just that now one saide sprays 130-140 and the other side sprays 130-140.
Asian...Nitrous flowing down the intake will flow darn near perfectly even, or atleast nearly as even as the air would. Its the fuel you have to worry about since its much denser. Using the MAf to tune for the dry shot can give you alot of fine control as well. But yes...I keep Af around 11.5-11.9 to 1. I also retard plenty of timing and run 100 octane unleaded. All those combined will keep you safe if you have one cylinder a percent or two leaner than the rest. Basically tune for the leanest cylinder. Read plugs, check knocks, and use wideband on a dyno.
And yes it feels great when you slam the full shot on it. We predominatly race from a roll over a long bridge here in Tampa. Usually from 40-150. I havent been beat with this new setup yet. I have raced 800 rwhp single Turbo Supras, ROE supercharged Vipers (the notorious Miami Viper), and plenty of other cars. All have fallen
I am currently changing a few things to make the first stage a 200 dry and second stage 200 wet. Or possibly 3 stages. 200 dry/ 100 wet/ 100 wet at 3000/4500/5500 rpm respectively. Spin to 6800 rpm total.
A few pics of my "simple" setup
two stage
nitrogen push