Uncorfortable with nitrous tune
It's funny that I didn't realize that the bottle was empty. I had it filled up to twenty pounds the week before. I did two street pulls, and the 17 lbs was the result after the 4th dyno pull. The more I look at the graph... the more I think you guys are right. I'm probably going to go back to my 125 fuel pill though. In theory, the pressure was ok for about 2000 rpms then the pressure fell making me go really rich and loose torque. So, the first 3000 -4500 rpms probably show where my a/f will be with a full bottle, which is about 12.9. I'm going to switch back to the 125 fuel pill to get that lower.
And did I read that correctly that your NA Tune was setup for 11.5:1???? And your nitrous tune had you at 12.8:1???? That seems backwards to me especially with those plugs. The c16 is fine as it'll just stave off detonation. but like ATV said a switch to a 7 plug will allow you some more timing and you could lean it out a bit. To be safe i'd shoot for an AFR on spray between 11.5 and 11.9:1 at FIRST. Then make pulls and pull plugs to see what the fuel ring and timing marks look like.... Then you could lean it out from there. But personally i'd stop around 12.3-12.5:1..... if even that....
Typically naturally aspirated motors make the most power at around 12.9:1-13.1:1.... some nitrous motors make max power at the same air fuel ratios but it is not for the faint of heart and certainly not amateurs... running a nitrous motor that lean can either make max power or make 8 aluminum ashtrays...
but to be safe i'd run TR7 plugs, take some timing out of it initially and shoot for the aforementioned 11.5:1.... with c16 and that amount of spray it would be tough to hurt something... and yes 17# in a 10 lb bottle is VERY empty. probably all kinds of pressure spikes causing the wavy graph... rich and lean swings... just ugly pulls....
25 lbs in a 10 lb bottle is full.... We typically make two passes on a 15 lb bottle and then stop using it.... I burn maybe like 3lbs of nitrous per pass (325 shot w/purge on the starting line).... So once my bottle gets to 9 lbs it's in need of a refill... ON a 10 lb bottle and a 125 shot i'd say 3 passes max and consider it empty.
Typically naturally aspirated motors make the most power at around 12.9:1-13.1:1.... some nitrous motors make max power at the same air fuel ratios but it is not for the faint of heart and certainly not amateurs... running a nitrous motor that lean can either make max power or make 8 aluminum ashtrays...
but to be safe i'd run TR7 plugs, take some timing out of it initially and shoot for the aforementioned 11.5:1.... with c16 and that amount of spray it would be tough to hurt something... and yes 17# in a 10 lb bottle is VERY empty. probably all kinds of pressure spikes causing the wavy graph... rich and lean swings... just ugly pulls....
25 lbs in a 10 lb bottle is full.... We typically make two passes on a 15 lb bottle and then stop using it.... I burn maybe like 3lbs of nitrous per pass (325 shot w/purge on the starting line).... So once my bottle gets to 9 lbs it's in need of a refill... ON a 10 lb bottle and a 125 shot i'd say 3 passes max and consider it empty.
And did I read that correctly that your NA Tune was setup for 11.5:1???? And your nitrous tune had you at 12.8:1???? That seems backwards to me especially with those plugs. The c16 is fine as it'll just stave off detonation. but like ATV said a switch to a 7 plug will allow you some more timing and you could lean it out a bit. To be safe i'd shoot for an AFR on spray between 11.5 and 11.9:1 at FIRST. Then make pulls and pull plugs to see what the fuel ring and timing marks look like.... Then you could lean it out from there. But personally i'd stop around 12.3-12.5:1..... if even that....
Typically naturally aspirated motors make the most power at around 12.9:1-13.1:1.... some nitrous motors make max power at the same air fuel ratios but it is not for the faint of heart and certainly not amateurs... running a nitrous motor that lean can either make max power or make 8 aluminum ashtrays...
but to be safe i'd run TR7 plugs, take some timing out of it initially and shoot for the aforementioned 11.5:1.... with c16 and that amount of spray it would be tough to hurt something... and yes 17# in a 10 lb bottle is VERY empty. probably all kinds of pressure spikes causing the wavy graph... rich and lean swings... just ugly pulls....
25 lbs in a 10 lb bottle is full.... We typically make two passes on a 15 lb bottle and then stop using it.... I burn maybe like 3lbs of nitrous per pass (325 shot w/purge on the starting line).... So once my bottle gets to 9 lbs it's in need of a refill... ON a 10 lb bottle and a 125 shot i'd say 3 passes max and consider it empty.
Typically naturally aspirated motors make the most power at around 12.9:1-13.1:1.... some nitrous motors make max power at the same air fuel ratios but it is not for the faint of heart and certainly not amateurs... running a nitrous motor that lean can either make max power or make 8 aluminum ashtrays...
but to be safe i'd run TR7 plugs, take some timing out of it initially and shoot for the aforementioned 11.5:1.... with c16 and that amount of spray it would be tough to hurt something... and yes 17# in a 10 lb bottle is VERY empty. probably all kinds of pressure spikes causing the wavy graph... rich and lean swings... just ugly pulls....
25 lbs in a 10 lb bottle is full.... We typically make two passes on a 15 lb bottle and then stop using it.... I burn maybe like 3lbs of nitrous per pass (325 shot w/purge on the starting line).... So once my bottle gets to 9 lbs it's in need of a refill... ON a 10 lb bottle and a 125 shot i'd say 3 passes max and consider it empty.
Your tune is not "dialed in" at no point should any kit be run at 10.0(strike 1).... Most guys tunning ls1's may know how to make them idle or even run on the motor but they don't know **** about nitrous. First he tuned it soley on the dyno (Strike 2) If he didn't pull a plug then hes usless(strike 3). Get a new tuner before you have to get a new motor....
Last edited by ShiznityZ28; Sep 2, 2009 at 10:52 AM.
25 is high for the start tune. thats more where you will end up but id put 22 in it get a/f to 12.2 and take it to the track. screw the dyno. make an 1/8 mile pass pull a plug and loog at the timming mark/ a/f keep the mark on the tip of the plug until you get a/f close (3/4 of a barrel of fuel) then add 1 degree at a time and put a small amount of fuel with each degree.
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25 is high for the start tune. thats more where you will end up but id put 22 in it get a/f to 12.2 and take it to the track. screw the dyno. make an 1/8 mile pass pull a plug and loog at the timming mark/ a/f keep the mark on the tip of the plug until you get a/f close (3/4 of a barrel of fuel) then add 1 degree at a time and put a small amount of fuel with each degree.
Your tune is not "dialed in" at no point should any kit be run at 10.0(strike 1).... Most guys tunning ls1's may know how to make them idle or even run on the motor but they don't know **** about nitrous. First he tuned it soley on the dyno (Strike 2) If he didn't pull a plug then hes usless(strike 3). Get a new tuner before you have to get a new motor....
Your tune is not "dialed in" at no point should any kit be run at 10.0(strike 1).... Most guys tunning ls1's may know how to make them idle or even run on the motor but they don't know **** about nitrous. First he tuned it soley on the dyno (Strike 2) If he didn't pull a plug then hes usless(strike 3). Get a new tuner before you have to get a new motor....
