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Old 10-15-2009, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mitch cobb racing
dont over-analyze what i was saying. i was just trying to say that instead of always having to worry about the heater that if you keep say 10 pounds of nitrous in a 10 pound bottle, or 15 in a 15 then you wont have to worrry about the heater near as much. yes, if its real cold out you will have to heat the bottle to reach the desired 1000~ psi, but generally a "full" bottle will be good to go. am i wrong?
It is true that if the bottle is more full when you spray there will be a smaller pressure drop than if the bottle was less full. But the pressure is still dependent on the temperature of the bottle and liquid nitrous. If you want your pressure to be above, say 800 psi, then bottle temperature needs to be above 75F. If you want your pressure to be above 900 psi then the temperature needs to be above 80F. When bottle pressure reaches 1000 psi the temperature is very near 97.7F which the critical temperature of nitrous. If there is liquid nitrous in the bottle, pressure is temperature.
Old 10-15-2009, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver2000WS-6
This is also wrong. PV=mRT lets rearrange it to P=(mRT)/V. Now lets assume volume, V, and the gas constant, R, is constant. Now pressure is affected by mass, m, and temperature, T. Where mass is your so called fullness. Anyhow this got to deep, but you shouldn't have jumped on the other guy. Oh yeah I know that the quality of the mixture will change but the pressure will still go up if you increase the mass.
You need to remember that the m in the ideal gas law applies to the mass of nitrous vapor (gas), not the mass of liquid nitrous (bottle fullness).
Old 10-16-2009, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Z
You need to remember that the m in the ideal gas law applies to the mass of nitrous vapor (gas), not the mass of liquid nitrous (bottle fullness).
I appologize I just realize that what the saturation pressure of N2O is.
Old 10-17-2009, 03:29 PM
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My first time using nitrous I made the mistake of leaving the heater on with the bottle closed. The way it was hooked up the sensor and bottle gauge did not register until the bottle was open.

I was in my buddies Lightning with the bottle in the cab and no blow down tube. I was in line waiting to run which can take up to 45 minutes. I turned the bottle on and the outside temp was about 95*. I would periodically look at the gauge but it was not moving. Finally, I felt the bottle and it was extremely hot but the gauge was still at the same level. I realized the bottle was closed so I opened it and immediately the pressure on the gauge went past 1600(1600 max markings). I am lucky the burst panel did not go off while I was i the cab. I did not have a purge kit so I would quickly blip the switch at WOT in 3rd to lower the bottle pressure.

I think it was hooked up that way because the bottle does not have extra valves. So in my case the bottle valve has to be open for the gauge and heater to work properly.

Any ways, I managed a 12.7 with a 75 shot a couple times that day.

Be safe out there.




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