Nitrous Block Prep
You have a good point I never thought about running a 370 instead of a 408. I've seen what you guys do with your car and I would definitely be interested in you doing my setup. You think ET 245's would work good with 370ci. I know its different than a street motor because it more compression and a higher rpm range but that seems like alot of head.
How do you set the stock ecu up to work with a carb?
How do you set the stock ecu up to work with a carb?
Pm me if you want some options or want to talk on the phone.
Is there a website that sells ET performance heads or something like that where I can go see specs or prices. It seems like ET's website hasn't been updated in years.
I've thought about a GMPP intake but I heard they make less power than a Super Victor, but I'm not sure if they make super vics for rectangle port heads.
I've thought about a GMPP intake but I heard they make less power than a Super Victor, but I'm not sure if they make super vics for rectangle port heads.
A stock motor isn't gonna get you where you want to be, but it will be a starting point.
A1000 is a high pressure pump I thought, and if you're going carb you want low pressure, low pressure definintely for the nitrous system, either that or you'll be stuck running such a smalll jet, that you'll have alot of problems with them getting clogged, melting parts, etc.
That's why the low psi is used, so the jets are bigger and you don't have to worry about one tiny spec getting in there and melting a piston down.
A1000 is a high pressure pump I thought, and if you're going carb you want low pressure, low pressure definintely for the nitrous system, either that or you'll be stuck running such a smalll jet, that you'll have alot of problems with them getting clogged, melting parts, etc.
That's why the low psi is used, so the jets are bigger and you don't have to worry about one tiny spec getting in there and melting a piston down.
And I was just gonna use the stock motor pretty much as a donor. I would use the block, covers, sensors, coil packs, and maybe crank in the new build. I figured I could get a running condition motor for about 1K, I would come out better than buying a new block and having to then go back and buy all the cover and sensors and so on separate. I know from reading other threads that those are the things that you dont budget for that make engine builds more expensive than what you planned them.
Stock motor for that use, would be a good start for sure.
You probably can use an A1000 that way, I'd just look at all the options. When it comes to nitrous, a seperate fuel system IMO, is a better deal. Seperate pump that comes on when you arm the system, etc. Just the way most people go, ya don't have to do it that way, but for the most part it's the genaral setup.
You probably can use an A1000 that way, I'd just look at all the options. When it comes to nitrous, a seperate fuel system IMO, is a better deal. Seperate pump that comes on when you arm the system, etc. Just the way most people go, ya don't have to do it that way, but for the most part it's the genaral setup.
Is there a website that sells ET performance heads or something like that where I can go see specs or prices. It seems like ET's website hasn't been updated in years.
I've thought about a GMPP intake but I heard they make less power than a Super Victor, but I'm not sure if they make super vics for rectangle port heads.
I've thought about a GMPP intake but I heard they make less power than a Super Victor, but I'm not sure if they make super vics for rectangle port heads.
as for the intake. the gmpp=vic jr. the super is bigger and for the most part better but it don't fit well on a stock cowl. if you are willing to cut the super vic is the way to go.
I was reading in summit that you can use the A1000 with a carb, I guess the regulator slows down the pressure on the line. Atleast I think thats how it works. Right now the A1000 would be overkill but I wanted to just buy a pump 1 time and not have to upgrade when the I start hitting it with the juice.
And I was just gonna use the stock motor pretty much as a donor. I would use the block, covers, sensors, coil packs, and maybe crank in the new build. I figured I could get a running condition motor for about 1K, I would come out better than buying a new block and having to then go back and buy all the cover and sensors and so on separate. I know from reading other threads that those are the things that you dont budget for that make engine builds more expensive than what you planned them.
And I was just gonna use the stock motor pretty much as a donor. I would use the block, covers, sensors, coil packs, and maybe crank in the new build. I figured I could get a running condition motor for about 1K, I would come out better than buying a new block and having to then go back and buy all the cover and sensors and so on separate. I know from reading other threads that those are the things that you dont budget for that make engine builds more expensive than what you planned them.
A stock motor isn't gonna get you where you want to be, but it will be a starting point.
A1000 is a high pressure pump I thought, and if you're going carb you want low pressure, low pressure definintely for the nitrous system, either that or you'll be stuck running such a smalll jet, that you'll have alot of problems with them getting clogged, melting parts, etc.
That's why the low psi is used, so the jets are bigger and you don't have to worry about one tiny spec getting in there and melting a piston down.
A1000 is a high pressure pump I thought, and if you're going carb you want low pressure, low pressure definintely for the nitrous system, either that or you'll be stuck running such a smalll jet, that you'll have alot of problems with them getting clogged, melting parts, etc.
That's why the low psi is used, so the jets are bigger and you don't have to worry about one tiny spec getting in there and melting a piston down.
I'm running an in-line Walbro 255 on my carb'd setup at 8psi. It does great, been like that for a few years now.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo I was thinking I would like to run a solid roller for the ability to turn 8K plus rpm's but I also know it cost money to be able to do that. For guys that have done it or priced what it takes to do it whats needed to do the change? I know you need the roller rockers thats a given anyway, I also know you need solid lifters, I think you need to get the heads cut to accept different springs, but I bet there's more that I dont know.
I wasn't aware that you could use those style pumps on carb'd setups either until a couple of years ago. Pretty cheap way to get a mean pump for a carb'd setup.
I was thinking I would like to run a solid roller for the ability to turn 8K plus rpm's but I also know it cost money to be able to do that. For guys that have done it or priced what it takes to do it whats needed to do the change? I know you need the roller rockers thats a given anyway, I also know you need solid lifters, I think you need to get the heads cut to accept different springs, but I bet there's more that I dont know.
Bout $3K
They make one that doesn't require any machine work at all? That's good to know... I thought all the solid roller lifters out there required some type of machine work. What are they good for lift wise/base circle wise before you start running into issues, or are they substantially longer to allow a little more tolerance in both departments?
They make one that doesn't require any machine work at all? That's good to know... I thought all the solid roller lifters out there required some type of machine work. What are they good for lift wise/base circle wise before you start running into issues, or are they substantially longer to allow a little more tolerance in both departments?
Put them right in the stock lifter cups.
Seemed about the same size. We had std. size cam core with over 900 lift.
I didn't think there was enough meat on everything to get that much 
Did you leave a 1.7 rocker on it, or go up on the ratio too, regardless, that's alot for the stock cam core dia.
I'll stick with my slow class, I can get away with all the cheap parts for that and have no problems. At least for a while.
Did you leave a 1.7 rocker on it, or go up on the ratio too, regardless, that's alot for the stock cam core dia.
I'll stick with my slow class, I can get away with all the cheap parts for that and have no problems. At least for a while.
LOL. no we will stay with the morells. 9000 rpm shifts 0 oil pressure issues not 1 issu threw 2 season( racing 3-4 days per month). worked perfect. like atv said 940 lift on the intake with a 1.85 rocker and 870 or so exhaust.