Nitrous Block Prep
Nitrous Block Prep I would like to know from the guys that have been there and done that what kind of prep is necessary on a LQ4 iron block to run 8.50's in the 1/4. The rest of the combo is a 2800# mustang and a TH400.
The details can still all be changed because nothing is bought yet, well besides the car.........I already have that.
I would like to hear opinions for Nitro Dave, ATV, Smith, RPM, Shawn@VASpeed, JMillz, along with anyone else that has a dedicated nitrous race car.
The details can still all be changed because nothing is bought yet, well besides the car.........I already have that.
I would like to hear opinions for Nitro Dave, ATV, Smith, RPM, Shawn@VASpeed, JMillz, along with anyone else that has a dedicated nitrous race car.
What kind of cubes are you going with?
As far as the block it's self there rally isn't a whole lot that needs to be done (Unless you are doing a large stroke setup witch i don't recommend) Just your basic hot tank and de-burr (Not 100% necessary)
Just don't skimp on the fasteners (Main studs, Head studs, etc.) You can get the main caps pinned but again it's not 100% necessary.
Get it line bored and the cylinders bored & honed with torque plates.
As far as the block it's self there rally isn't a whole lot that needs to be done (Unless you are doing a large stroke setup witch i don't recommend) Just your basic hot tank and de-burr (Not 100% necessary)
Just don't skimp on the fasteners (Main studs, Head studs, etc.) You can get the main caps pinned but again it's not 100% necessary.
Get it line bored and the cylinders bored & honed with torque plates.
Thanks for the reply. I am planning on running it as a 408 with a 4" stroke nothing outside the box even though I considered a 396 like ATV but I think I'm going to need all the help I can get since I can't afford some other high dollar pieces like C5R's or all pro's.
I will probably run AFR's, with a Super Victor and a carb.
So all i need is a regular machining and nothing to special like having the block filled?
I will probably run AFR's, with a Super Victor and a carb.
So all i need is a regular machining and nothing to special like having the block filled?
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Over Here and Over There
Having someone that knows what they are doing with the nitrous is going to be a key factor to how fast you go and how much stuff you tear up.
I don't have "High dollar" stuff in my setup other than the pistons (Diamond) and I have Eagle rods and the stock crank. Stock ported heads, GMMP Singe plane with a carb, plate and a fogger.
I've hit it with 400 before and it took it like a champ. Before I knew what I was doing I fucked some stuff up on a 250 shot LOL. Learn to read your plugs and know how to change how they look the right way.
I don't have "High dollar" stuff in my setup other than the pistons (Diamond) and I have Eagle rods and the stock crank. Stock ported heads, GMMP Singe plane with a carb, plate and a fogger.
I've hit it with 400 before and it took it like a champ. Before I knew what I was doing I fucked some stuff up on a 250 shot LOL. Learn to read your plugs and know how to change how they look the right way.
Having someone that knows what they are doing with the nitrous is going to be a key factor to how fast you go and how much stuff you tear up.
I don't have "High dollar" stuff in my setup other than the pistons (Diamond) and I have Eagle rods and the stock crank. Stock ported heads, GMMP Singe plane with a carb, plate and a fogger.
I've hit it with 400 before and it took it like a champ. Before I knew what I was doing I fucked some stuff up on a 250 shot LOL. Learn to read your plugs and know how to change how they look the right way.
I don't have "High dollar" stuff in my setup other than the pistons (Diamond) and I have Eagle rods and the stock crank. Stock ported heads, GMMP Singe plane with a carb, plate and a fogger.
I've hit it with 400 before and it took it like a champ. Before I knew what I was doing I fucked some stuff up on a 250 shot LOL. Learn to read your plugs and know how to change how they look the right way.
On a quick side note. When I get my chassis lined out next year, you want to help out a brother when I take it to the track by looking over my shoulder and helping me spray my car the right way and not messing anything up??
Guys, he's putting this in a 2800 lb raceweight mustang.
That factor alone, is going to allow you to make probably 200 less hp if not more then the average f body would need to get to the same power level.
Build a 408, use good studs, (oversized ARP2000 or L19 if you want to spend the $) and just make sure that you get the best piston you can, coat them too, and if you're going to spend any big $ anywhere, do it in the valvetrain so you can spin it to 8500 (go solid roller)
moroso oil pan and a melling pump will be fine that will keep ti oiled adequately, put a vacuum pump on it too, to keep the oil out of the cyl's and you should be good.
2 foggers, leave on a 24, bring a 28 in quickly, and you should be just about there.
Keep the timing low, really REALLY LOW. Timing is the one thing that you can hurt stuff with, keep that down under 10 degrees and it will be more reliable then you think.
That factor alone, is going to allow you to make probably 200 less hp if not more then the average f body would need to get to the same power level.
Build a 408, use good studs, (oversized ARP2000 or L19 if you want to spend the $) and just make sure that you get the best piston you can, coat them too, and if you're going to spend any big $ anywhere, do it in the valvetrain so you can spin it to 8500 (go solid roller)
moroso oil pan and a melling pump will be fine that will keep ti oiled adequately, put a vacuum pump on it too, to keep the oil out of the cyl's and you should be good.
2 foggers, leave on a 24, bring a 28 in quickly, and you should be just about there.
Keep the timing low, really REALLY LOW. Timing is the one thing that you can hurt stuff with, keep that down under 10 degrees and it will be more reliable then you think.
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Having someone that knows what they are doing with the nitrous is going to be a key factor to how fast you go and how much stuff you tear up.
I don't have "High dollar" stuff in my setup other than the pistons (Diamond) and I have Eagle rods and the stock crank. Stock ported heads, GMMP Singe plane with a carb, plate and a fogger.
I've hit it with 400 before and it took it like a champ. Before I knew what I was doing I fucked some stuff up on a 250 shot LOL. Learn to read your plugs and know how to change how they look the right way.
I don't have "High dollar" stuff in my setup other than the pistons (Diamond) and I have Eagle rods and the stock crank. Stock ported heads, GMMP Singe plane with a carb, plate and a fogger.
I've hit it with 400 before and it took it like a champ. Before I knew what I was doing I fucked some stuff up on a 250 shot LOL. Learn to read your plugs and know how to change how they look the right way.
And once again thanks all you guys for the help.
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you have a very impressive ET for your combo. I hope I can get my car to run like yours. What do you use to run the motor with the carb because I'll probably be doing the same thing. I've been looking at the MSD 6LS but I dont know if there is something better for the job.
And once again thanks all you guys for the help.
And once again thanks all you guys for the help.
358, Just let me know when you are ready to go fast.
If your on a budget. use a stock crank( save $1500) compstar rods. good nitrous pistons. Spend the sved cash on aftermarket heads ( we like the et's 245's or Ls7's ). Vic jr and a top mount with the biggest spacer you can get on your cowl.that setup can go into the 8's for sure in an fbody. at 2800lb it will go 8.50. at 2800 lbs you need 850 or so to the wheels to go 158 ~what you need for 8.5 at 2800lbs you can make 540 rwhp with a decent nitrous cam and 36X cubes. 300 shot later your done. you can build a helova nitrous piston with a stock crank or the 3.9 crank.
as for the prep work. the machine work is important . you need someone who is good. we have had shoddy machine work and oil control is the #1 most important thing in a nitrous app. Also i would fill the block to just bellow the water inlet. it helped out our down track temp alot.We like the arp L19 stock sixed head studs and commetics. other than that nothing supper special.
PM me or atv if you want us to get you set up.
as for the prep work. the machine work is important . you need someone who is good. we have had shoddy machine work and oil control is the #1 most important thing in a nitrous app. Also i would fill the block to just bellow the water inlet. it helped out our down track temp alot.We like the arp L19 stock sixed head studs and commetics. other than that nothing supper special.
PM me or atv if you want us to get you set up.
If your on a budget. use a stock crank( save $1500) compstar rods. good nitrous pistons. Spend the sved cash on aftermarket heads ( we like the et's 245's or Ls7's ). Vic jr and a top mount with the biggest spacer you can get on your cowl.that setup can go into the 8's for sure in an fbody. at 2800lb it will go 8.50. at 2800 lbs you need 850 or so to the wheels to go 158 ~what you need for 8.5 at 2800lbs you can make 540 rwhp with a decent nitrous cam and 36X cubes. 300 shot later your done. you can build a helova nitrous piston with a stock crank or the 3.9 crank.
as for the prep work. the machine work is important . you need someone who is good. we have had shoddy machine work and oil control is the #1 most important thing in a nitrous app. Also i would fill the block to just bellow the water inlet. it helped out our down track temp alot.We like the arp L19 stock sixed head studs and commetics. other than that nothing supper special.
PM me or atv if you want us to get you set up.
as for the prep work. the machine work is important . you need someone who is good. we have had shoddy machine work and oil control is the #1 most important thing in a nitrous app. Also i would fill the block to just bellow the water inlet. it helped out our down track temp alot.We like the arp L19 stock sixed head studs and commetics. other than that nothing supper special.
PM me or atv if you want us to get you set up.
How do you set the stock ecu up to work with a carb?
You have a good point I never thought about running a 370 instead of a 408. I've seen what you guys do with your car and I would definitely be interested in you doing my setup. You think ET 245's would work good with 370ci. I know its different than a street motor because it more compression and a higher rpm range but that seems like alot of head.
How do you set the stock ecu up to work with a carb?
How do you set the stock ecu up to work with a carb?
My tuner modified the stock harness, basically removed the injector plug-ins and other things associated with the stock fuel system. I'm sure there is a write up on here telling how to do it or if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself I have a friend that does harnesses, he could hook you up for a small fee.
You can even use the stock style pump, just get a good aftermarket regulator to adjust the pressure down to where you want it. Some people will tell you that you can't do it that way but I've been running mine like that for a couple of years with no issues at all. Plus, a Walbro 255 will support a bunch of HP when used on a carburated setup so you won't have to buy a high dollar pump.
I'm actually running an in line Walbro 255 that is fed from a bulkhead in the bottom of the stock tank and runs through -8 braided line all the way to the reg. and -6 braided line for the return.
I 'm running a stand alone setup for the nitrous with a 1 gallon cell and a Holly blue pump going into a fuel log with a pair of Holly 12-803's, One for the plate kit and one for the fogger.
That setup sounds sweet. My motor will be going into a mustang with a 3 speed. I was thinking about buying a new block but there might be a big advantage to getting a complete used motor that comes with all the sensors and all. My car already has a fuel cell and I will need a electric pump, will the walbro still work or should I go with a regular electric fuel pump.
If you're building a race car, I'd just put a 3 gallon up in the nose and ditch the entire stock system, save 25 lbs, less fuel capacity is a good thing (less weight, and in the event of a disaster like a fire, less to burn) and with it in the front of the car, you're not fighting gravity to get fuel to the motor.
At that point, you can run anything you want for a fuel pump, hell one big magnafuel with a log and a regulator for everything if your'e going with a carb would me nice and simple, a ton less -AN line to buy/run in the car too.
At that point, you can run anything you want for a fuel pump, hell one big magnafuel with a log and a regulator for everything if your'e going with a carb would me nice and simple, a ton less -AN line to buy/run in the car too.
I bought the car with a 5 gallon cell in the spare area and it already came with a regulator. I was thinking that a A1000 would do the trick. Right now I'm considering buying a complete used LQ4 with all the sensors and all and saving that hassle. I might even run it as is for a season or so with a small shot while I save money to complete the big build.
You guys know a good place with a good reputation to buy a used engine. I'm on ebay now looking at Morris Rose they have a couple and they come with a 6 month warranty.
You guys know a good place with a good reputation to buy a used engine. I'm on ebay now looking at Morris Rose they have a couple and they come with a 6 month warranty.
A stock motor isn't gonna get you where you want to be, but it will be a starting point.
A1000 is a high pressure pump I thought, and if you're going carb you want low pressure, low pressure definintely for the nitrous system, either that or you'll be stuck running such a smalll jet, that you'll have alot of problems with them getting clogged, melting parts, etc.
That's why the low psi is used, so the jets are bigger and you don't have to worry about one tiny spec getting in there and melting a piston down.
A1000 is a high pressure pump I thought, and if you're going carb you want low pressure, low pressure definintely for the nitrous system, either that or you'll be stuck running such a smalll jet, that you'll have alot of problems with them getting clogged, melting parts, etc.
That's why the low psi is used, so the jets are bigger and you don't have to worry about one tiny spec getting in there and melting a piston down.
