Can I just leave the timing pulled for nitrous while NA?
#1
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Hey guys, here is what's going on. Im going to be getting a cam soon and once i do so, i will have it tuned by PCMforless. I also plan on doing a Nitro Daves LT1 Plate kit with a 100 minimum and possibly a 150 shot. I was wondering if i were to get my car tuned for the cam and have them pull a few degrees of timing for my future nitrous use, if thatd be okay.
Obviously the car will run cam only with timing pulled, and still run well. I want to know how much hp I'd be losing if i kept the timing pulled whenever i wasn't spraying. If it's a big difference, ill just get a timing tuner, but im just wondering if itd be worth the hassle. I dont think id need to ever adjust the timing. Id probably do a 150 and have 6 degrees or so pulled and wouldnt need to adjust the timing again because i wouldnt go above 150. Any help would be appreciated.
Obviously the car will run cam only with timing pulled, and still run well. I want to know how much hp I'd be losing if i kept the timing pulled whenever i wasn't spraying. If it's a big difference, ill just get a timing tuner, but im just wondering if itd be worth the hassle. I dont think id need to ever adjust the timing. Id probably do a 150 and have 6 degrees or so pulled and wouldnt need to adjust the timing again because i wouldnt go above 150. Any help would be appreciated.
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Well thats about as exact of an answer as i could hope for. For 150 shot, would it be sufficient to pull about 4 degrees of timing? I know you should pull 1-1.5 degrees of timing for every 50 hp so for 150 i would assume 4 would be sufficient? Then id only be looking at a roughly 8hp loss while NA?
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He is saying that he did not lose any trap speed on the nitrous tune running na. I can believe that on ls1 cars that are only pulling a degree or two of timing for a 100-125 shot. In your situation, youll need to be pulling 4-6 degrees for a 150. Running that timing na is going to drop 2-3mph off your trap in theroy...
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#8
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Ryanbrough, Where's your timing set at for the bottle and are you using any race gas? Also, 3.23s or 3.42s in your 10-bolt?
You and others here can have the best of both worlds (NA & N20) with a homemade cts tricker box that pulls timing for the bottle from a flip of a switch, or you can buy one. My tuner made this one, but mine is slightly different:
You and others here can have the best of both worlds (NA & N20) with a homemade cts tricker box that pulls timing for the bottle from a flip of a switch, or you can buy one. My tuner made this one, but mine is slightly different:
![](https://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk174/shortdog273/N20box.jpg)
#9
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Timing is around 18deg on the bottle. The car had 3.42's in it last season and now has 3.50's (28 inch tire on both). I don't run one of those boxes for two reasons. Number one is that I am a fan of the KISS method of nitrous tuning. I dont like a bunch of extra widgets that could fail and hurt something. Second, the car is a dog at the track on the motor anyway, but is still a handful on the street even down the few hp that the N2O tune takes out
#11
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Timing is around 18deg on the bottle. The car had 3.42's in it last season and now has 3.50's (28 inch tire on both). I don't run one of those boxes for two reasons. Number one is that I am a fan of the KISS method of nitrous tuning. I dont like a bunch of extra widgets that could fail and hurt something. Second, the car is a dog at the track on the motor anyway, but is still a handful on the street even down the few hp that the N2O tune takes out
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You're trapping over 120 mph in a 1/4 ON MOTOR, so your car is hauling and nowhere near slow!
Are you sure that 18* is enough pulled for a 250 shot? If you're mixing in race gas, then disregard.
#12
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KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid (refering to the person using the term, in this case, myself). I'm sure those devices work fantastic for most people, but I've been burned by one one time (ground wire pulled out of a similar box in an older car and burnt a bunch of plugs because it didn't activate). I prefer to have as few failure possibilities as possible. I'm not saying they aren't for everyone, but I'd much prefer to not take the risk.
As far as the car being a dog... It's got a super tight converter (spec'd for the 350 or so hp worth of N2O that will be going through it this year) and it's really lazy without the bottle (1.75 60' compared to 1.40's). Not saying it was slow, but I just hate running it on the motor because it's not to it's full potential on the motor because the converter is so tight. As I said before, on the street, it really doesn't matter anymore. Traction is a limiting factor on the street before the lazy 60' is.
The plugs indicate that the car likes that much timing with my 200 shot (not a 250, that was a typo). I run 93 unleaded in the tank and C16 in the stand alone. Anything bigger than the 200 and I'll have 109 unleaded in the tank, C16 in the stand alone, and several degrees less timing for safety. I plan to start around 10 deg and work up with something like a 300 hit.
As far as the car being a dog... It's got a super tight converter (spec'd for the 350 or so hp worth of N2O that will be going through it this year) and it's really lazy without the bottle (1.75 60' compared to 1.40's). Not saying it was slow, but I just hate running it on the motor because it's not to it's full potential on the motor because the converter is so tight. As I said before, on the street, it really doesn't matter anymore. Traction is a limiting factor on the street before the lazy 60' is.
The plugs indicate that the car likes that much timing with my 200 shot (not a 250, that was a typo). I run 93 unleaded in the tank and C16 in the stand alone. Anything bigger than the 200 and I'll have 109 unleaded in the tank, C16 in the stand alone, and several degrees less timing for safety. I plan to start around 10 deg and work up with something like a 300 hit.