That would be my choice for a cam but, um you better wait a minute and think about what your saying. You SAID 382! That means STROKER. That means street in block with that much compression and THEN YOUR gunna add that much dope! CRAZY-IGNORANT-WILD(all in one word)!!!!!

I personally think it might like 3 passes up hey give it a shot! After the 3rd you'll probably hear some really bad noises and when you go to tear it apart and pull the intake off you'll prolly see the rest of the engine come apart too.

Josh S.

 

I'd go between the 230/236 and the 242/250, whichever leaves more meat on the piston ratehr than having deeper reliefs. Sounds like you just cam across the wrong way, with the 500shot. Should make somewhere near 450 with motor on that stroker, and then nail a nice two stage or multi stage (like 383LQ4SS) and make that 800 mark easy enough.
I am going to track your build up if you dont mind, I was wanting the same more or less for my car after my upcoming deployment. Thought, stroker=Tq and Hp, then add a dry 100 for launch and timing tuning. then a 250-300NXL DP for the finsihing touch having it progressively controlled to keep the TQ spike down and flatten out the power.

 

Getting the motor to keep the heads on the block isnt hard. Just have the engine builder o-ring the block and install copper head gaskets. If you need someone to talk to about that call the guys at MMT in Dallas, TX.

469-721-3080 and talk to Sean. They are not having issues with lifting the heads anymore.

 

I appriecate the responses I am getting from people that are not just saying that I am crazy. I honestly believe that the block and heads will handle the amount of power I am going to cram into it with PROPER preparation. I know there are people that say it can be done and reliable. Of course, I am not going to use an off-the-shelf street piston. It is going to be a piston for nitrous applications. I am also looking at Total Seals MAX seal piston rings which has a gapless top ring. I know I have heard others having problems with the gapless ring, but with two rings on the top land I can have a wide endgap and still have a good seal even after some wear. As for it going to be a stroker, it cost the same to buy a stock stroke forged crank or a 4.25" crank. I wanted to keep it reasonable. And yes, I do intend to have a progressive controller on the nitrous system so it keeps the torque spike to a controllable launch. I am not just going to throw this all together without making sure it will be reliable. Besides, a turbo motor can produce the same power and torque as what I am building except for the difference in cost to build I can refill my 10lb bottle 115 times. If I get two passes out of each bottle, that is 230 hard passes. I haven't made that many passes since I bought this car. And AGAIN I am not going to the 500HP right away. I plan on starting at NA, then 100HP and stepping up from there to the 500HP. And with each step, watching the car and making adjustments. When I get to the big 500 a few times, I will pull the motor and inspect for any indications of trouble. What I need is some builder who have used this much nitrous answer this thread and tell what of damage happened with the cause of it. This is a planning under development.

 

I did say a BIG stroker like from the 395 small-bore to the 436cid

 

Again, I wish you luck, and will follow your progress.
I say your close to being able to do it. Dont know anyone running that big a shot, on an LS1 so cant say it is or isnt possible. Hope it is.

 

Just a thought about heads. I researched some other manufacture's cylinder heads and found something interesting. Patroit Performance's Stage 3 LS6 heads have a slightly larger intake/exhaust ports and easily outflows Edelbrock's Victor Jr. heads. The LS6 even has smaller valves. Now I know there are some SBC guy out there building heavy nitrous motor with these heads. Even the biggest port heads I found fairly priced are only 230cc. So the thing about the engine being able to consume all the spray, I don't think it will be a problem. Just something interesting I saw.

 

If anything, be aware that almost all of our failures with heads have been in the deck area along the bores. With 4 bolts per cylinder the deck likes to lift in that general area. Even if you ring the block, like mine, you may still face some serious issues with cylinder pressure. Even though they are not out yet, the AFR's with the thicker deck height may actually help this problem out.

And as far as cost goes, in one year alone I've spent enough money on nitrous **** to actually entertain the thought that a turbo setup would be cheaper. Yes it's cheap to fill bottles, but then you have fresh sets of plugs all the time, race fuel, etc. Granted race fuel doesn't go away but this stuff adds up quicker then you think.

 

Derty, but your also near the top of THE list, and street driven too!

GP, I thought the same for the AFR heads, as soon as they said thick deck, I was all smiles. As long as they flow, they will be a future purchase

 

Yup, I even drove the car today. It was nice, 35 degrees out, I could see my breath while I was driving. Snow on the grass, pretty dry roads though. It was great! But, the point is I have some big nuts but I can't see spraying 500 on my car the way it sits. No way. And it's not because my nuts are swollen or anything that effects my better judgment. I know what 300 did to my car, I can't imagine what 500 would do.

Hmm, on another thought if I sprayed 500 maybe I could get an 8 out of the damn thing. I'll have to wait a few months though, it's cold and wet here now. Snow is on the way for a very white Christmas indeed!

 

Speaking of tuning, how much timing wuold be good to start off with on a 180-220DP shot from my NXL? I feel the tuned for nitrous, NA falls on face.

500shot pulls keep dancing in my head!

 

I might seriously look at the AFR heads. I like the Street version's specs, but does anyone have the flow numbers for the Strip unit? Also, I would like to know the exhaust port volume. I do think this will hold up better then the production LS6 heads

 

Where is your timing at now NA and are you running race gas or not. If so, what octane are you using and is that what your current tune is set for. NX recommends -1 degree for each 50 HP applied. I found that I needed to take out a bit more where my converter flashes and a little more in the higher RPM band. Keep in mind that may be unique to my setup too. You may want to consider -2 degrees above 6000. Try to get your A/F down to 11:1 with no pinging.

The base NX recommended tune was pretty close. I just paid closer attention to the pinging and leveling out the A/F safely. Haven't had any issues with it. The car runs clean and the plugs look great. Just load up a new plug on your last run and check the timing mark. Use that for some final judgement on the timing.

 

383LQ4, so what you are saying is that it might me possibale for a 400HP engine to spray a 1200 shot of spray? i understand that when you are spraying that the N20 releases its own oxygen so the natural air that comes into the engine is the same but no mader what you do, the N20 still has to pass through the port of the head. from what i understood, this is the point that limits more N20 from entering the motor and makeing more power. the 1to1 ratio is just what i heard to be the limit and i dont know of many people that have passed that ratio up so i fugured it was pretty accurate. this is instreasting though as i might be wrong. if i am, then maybe some day someone will be able to figure it out, and then everyone can have a 8 second car and still just have 400 NA. that would be cool.


Derty, i envy you for being able to have a white chirstmass. it is going to be in the 80s this chirstmass just like it is almost every year. maybe i will be able to have one of those white ones someday.

 

Holy crap. Now, I'm all about big spray, huge horsepower...but jeez man. Your current best pass of 12.188 does not even remotely prepare you for what your thinking of building, and a 500 shot and streetable cam should never, ever be in the same sentence. Either build a race car or don't, but from what I'm hearing you think that a 500 shot is child's play. Make no mistake, that motor WILL come apart somehow. 1000 horsepower is no joke, and I don't care what you think you know, if you think that 1000 horsepower and 382 cubic inches will last more than one season you're sorely mistaken.

That being said, a 500 shot will need an extremely large cam if you plan on being able to evacuate all of that exhaust volume, somewhere in the 255+ range. LSA should stay around 115-116 for maximum N20 power. Good luck, you're going to need it.

Steve<---------official parts catcher

 

Why do some of you doubt the strength of the LS1? The stock cast iron crankshafts have handled over 700RWHP and survives. Every component attached to the block helps to increase the strength of the block. And my "streetable" attempt will be on the very edge of it. And some of you are not reading the thread thoughly so I will do this.

[B]I AM NOT GOING TO GO TO A 500HP SHOT OF NITROUS OXIDE ALL AT ONCE. I AM GOING TO DO IT IN STEPS. THE MOTOR AND CAR WILL BE BUILT TO HANDLE THE POWER. ALL I WANTED IS OPINIONS ON CAM SPECS FOR A 12:5 CR, 382CID, AND 500HP OF NITROUS. I WILL WORRY ABOUT KEEPING THE MOTOR TOGETHER AND LEARNING TO KEEP THE CAR ON THE TRACK.

I hate to be rude, but some of you need to read the whole thread.

 

Do you really think we're telling you this just to **** you off? I am speaking from experience, period. I shot a 400 on my LT1 and let me tell you, it IS NOT reliable, no matter how much you're trying to convince yourself it is. It's not the crank that breaks, it's not the pistons, rods, block etc. It's not one thing that always breaks, it random stuff. If it was always the crank that broke, just get a billet crank and go on spraying away. Here's a run down for you through the various issues I had that required a tear down while spraying a 400 shot.

1.) Spark plug porcelain disintigrates and breaks the plug in half, wedging metal in the quench area and breaking a piston.

2.) Aeromotive Eliminator Pump Fails at 1/2 track, fuel pressure safety switch does not react fast enough, car runs lean, cylinder #1 piston melts 1/3 of the way around the ring land

3.) Cometic head gasket/ARP head studs and a head gasket still pops, hydrolocks motor, bent rods on numbers 3 and 5.

Shall I continue? The only reason I even question the setup at all is your confidence it's going to last. I'm just telling you how it is in the real world. Ask ANYBODY making that type of power if it's going to break, we've been there and done that, learn from our experience.

 

Oh yeah, good luck with a 6 speed holding that too....

 

Gold...just build a strong bottom and stud it all around. Then begin with a smaller shot. Like a dual stage 125/125 or progressive 225 shot or something along those lines. Then work your way up. Youll find a a spot where your comfortable Im sure. You may never get to a 500 shot and be happy.
If you were to setup a nice new engine and slam a 500 shot on it fisrt try obviosly it would just be one big grenade. You need to log your progress from a smaller shot so you would know what to expect in the area of tuning requirements

To spray that large of a shot will require ALOT of parts to support that/ From fuel systems, to chassis, to rear, to built tranny, to one hell of a wheel/tire/suspension combo, to safety equpment, etc

But by all means...go for it!

Tag...about how much the motor can ingest....I really believe its way more than 1 to 1. I think people start seeing minimal gains at higher leverls due to tuning, cam selection, exhaust, etc. Because the motor and those parts where built to operate in that "all motor" area of power. You often hear that to use nitrous you should build the motor to max NA power then spray it.
Well I believe if you built the motor (meaning cam selection, exhaust, valve sizes, exhaust ports, intake) to operate with the amount of HP you have in mind while spraying(like say a 600 shot) you would be less likely to hit that wall. Of course at that point your motor would run lke *** NA. But when you hit the juice...lookout!

So that old adage of building a motor for max power NA and then spraying it really only applies if you want a good running NA car and a good running nitrous car. For a max power nitrous motor things will very be different.

 

i see what you are saying but i have not seen to many cars going over the 1to1 mark and not have problems. even motors built just for spray but i am not saying that it is not possible. i was talking to a couple of guys that run in the nitrous madness class in the clash of the titans race here in texas and even they were telling me that they only spray like a 700shot when there motors were making close to 1000 NA. of coarse all these were big blocks with 572+CI and 3 fogger kits plubed into the intakes and 1 plate system under the carb (LOL that stuff is crazy). although considering that they did not know me very well they could be lieing to me and not letting out there true secrets. this is very intereasting though. i would really like to see someone try to get to 2to1. that would be awsome.

Gold Phenix, to answer your true question, i would go with a 270/280 @.050, .700+ lift 114+LSA, with a C5R head a must. enjoy.