Is a dual stage 300 DP possible?????????????
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Aurora IL
Originally Posted by Quickin
BTW to everyone,
I thought I heard/read that the dry and wet systems can deprive the rear cylinders of air/fuel causing damage to those pistons. TRUE?
Thats the only reason I was asking about the dual stage DP possibility. I'm having nightmares already that when I get my motor back all re-done and running perfect N/A, the first shot is gonna fry something.
I thought I heard/read that the dry and wet systems can deprive the rear cylinders of air/fuel causing damage to those pistons. TRUE?
Thats the only reason I was asking about the dual stage DP possibility. I'm having nightmares already that when I get my motor back all re-done and running perfect N/A, the first shot is gonna fry something.
you will see variances in what cylinders get N20 but with a dry system but all cylinders get the same amount of fuel.... where you see these issues is when you are using the wet stingers a lot of guys like. when your dry there is no need to worry about running lean as lons as you stay within tuned parameters... ie too high bottle pressure... wet DP there is little to worry about as well... start small and work your way up to the desired levels while monitoring AFR.
FYI the ramcharger timing computer is another alternative for timing retard, window switch and a small amount of delay... it works great for my setup and will work in conjunction with the DRY method. i plan on using both next spring...
jeremy is a freek man when it comes to the nitrous tuning. i cant wait till i get my combo together for him to blast a 100/100 combo! sounds like you are heading in the right direction.
stop freekin out. listen to people that have proven to know what they are doing and backed it up. you are in good company. good luck! florida representin!
stop freekin out. listen to people that have proven to know what they are doing and backed it up. you are in good company. good luck! florida representin!
10 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 4
From: H-town
i am guessing that no one is running LS1edit or am i wrong. you shouldnt need any other timing retards with it. you can just lock your timing at a certain number if you want without having to worry were it is at, unless you get KR. at least this is how i do it. i would run a nirtous tune and a NA tune and just change them when i needed to. of coarse if you dont always carry a labtop with you that would not be a good idea. for me it worked perfect. i just keeped all the tables above 4000 rpm at a certain number no matter what the load and it will stay there WOT. what do yall think?
taqwache- thats exactly why! I locked my timing at 24*, it stayed there as I get 0 KR. I race NA, it falls down, badly. The AFR and the timing for NA and Nitrous bigger shots is too much. I dont want to be a "laptoper" at the track. I want to roll in, change tires if needed and race. Jeremy F. has basically perfected timing tuning with dry shots. The MAF see's a temperature from the dry shot, immediately pulls the timing to the predetermined set level, and then you nail the DP. This way you keep both tunes readily available all the time. If your outta juice n need to race, roll with it. I imagine the more I build then the desire to Laptop will be there...but after 600+runs, and unpteen bottles, I havent seen it yet.
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Tag & Cat...both ways are just fine. It all depends of course on how the car is used. I know that Quicken is going to be a streetcar running $$$ races in the Miami area. He needs to be able to bring several variations to the table on little or no notice. So the dry tuning will work well for him. In Tags case it sounds like he is a track guy. No problem to swap tunes between runs at the track.
Got me some
...Ill post a buch of specs on the car when its done as well as new track times. It should go deep nines easy this time around. Again its not a track car..mostly street car. But the current round of mods will enable it to be more dual purpose with better track results.
Car ran a 10.3 @ 135 on 630 rwhp with ET streets on its one and only run at the track last time out. Granny shifting on a "familiarization pass" with the dual stage. I was kicked out for no cage and didnt get to make an "agressive" run. That was on stock suspension except for LCA's and stock rear with 3.42 rear gear, six speed car.
As of right now..we have stripped 120 lbs of weight. Added 45 lbs back with the cage. About 50 lbs was relocated to the rear of the rear axle (nitrous equipment).
Still waiting to go in the car:
*Moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears
*BMR K member with solid mounts (-35 lbs)
*BMR extreme rear sway setup
*HAL shocks all around and front springs
*custom intake
*custom Tq arm
*about 30 more lbs off the nose
*lightweight batt
*truck coils with hotter spark
*voltage blaster for more fuel pressure and spark
*automatic bottle nitrogen pressure setup. Arm it and it will bring pressure up to 1150 psi within 5 seconds. Make a run and it will maintain 1150 psi +/- 50 psi during run. New nitrogen bottle is carbon fiber instead of steel. (-30 lbs)
*third stage wet to add about 100 more HP to bring it right around 800 rwhp.
Got me some
...Ill post a buch of specs on the car when its done as well as new track times. It should go deep nines easy this time around. Again its not a track car..mostly street car. But the current round of mods will enable it to be more dual purpose with better track results.
Car ran a 10.3 @ 135 on 630 rwhp with ET streets on its one and only run at the track last time out. Granny shifting on a "familiarization pass" with the dual stage. I was kicked out for no cage and didnt get to make an "agressive" run. That was on stock suspension except for LCA's and stock rear with 3.42 rear gear, six speed car.
As of right now..we have stripped 120 lbs of weight. Added 45 lbs back with the cage. About 50 lbs was relocated to the rear of the rear axle (nitrous equipment).
Still waiting to go in the car:
*Moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears
*BMR K member with solid mounts (-35 lbs)
*BMR extreme rear sway setup
*HAL shocks all around and front springs
*custom intake
*custom Tq arm
*about 30 more lbs off the nose
*lightweight batt
*truck coils with hotter spark
*voltage blaster for more fuel pressure and spark
*automatic bottle nitrogen pressure setup. Arm it and it will bring pressure up to 1150 psi within 5 seconds. Make a run and it will maintain 1150 psi +/- 50 psi during run. New nitrogen bottle is carbon fiber instead of steel. (-30 lbs)
*third stage wet to add about 100 more HP to bring it right around 800 rwhp.
10 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 4
From: H-town
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Tag & Cat...both ways are just fine. It all depends of course on how the car is used. I know that Quicken is going to be a streetcar running $$$ races in the Miami area. He needs to be able to bring several variations to the table on little or no notice. So the dry tuning will work well for him. In Tags case it sounds like he is a track guy. No problem to swap tunes between runs at the track.
Got me some
...Ill post a buch of specs on the car when its done as well as new track times. It should go deep nines easy this time around. Again its not a track car..mostly street car. But the current round of mods will enable it to be more dual purpose with better track results.
Car ran a 10.3 @ 135 on 630 rwhp with ET streets on its one and only run at the track last time out. Granny shifting on a "familiarization pass" with the dual stage. I was kicked out for no cage and didnt get to make an "agressive" run. That was on stock suspension except for LCA's and stock rear with 3.42 rear gear, six speed car.
As of right now..we have stripped 120 lbs of weight. Added 45 lbs back with the cage. About 50 lbs was relocated to the rear of the rear axle (nitrous equipment).
Still waiting to go in the car:
*Moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears
*BMR K member with solid mounts (-35 lbs)
*BMR extreme rear sway setup
*HAL shocks all around and front springs
*custom intake
*custom Tq arm
*about 30 more lbs off the nose
*lightweight batt
*truck coils with hotter spark
*voltage blaster for more fuel pressure and spark
*automatic bottle nitrogen pressure setup. Arm it and it will bring pressure up to 1150 psi within 5 seconds. Make a run and it will maintain 1150 psi +/- 50 psi during run. New nitrogen bottle is carbon fiber instead of steel. (-30 lbs)
*third stage wet to add about 100 more HP to bring it right around 800 rwhp.
Got me some
...Ill post a buch of specs on the car when its done as well as new track times. It should go deep nines easy this time around. Again its not a track car..mostly street car. But the current round of mods will enable it to be more dual purpose with better track results.
Car ran a 10.3 @ 135 on 630 rwhp with ET streets on its one and only run at the track last time out. Granny shifting on a "familiarization pass" with the dual stage. I was kicked out for no cage and didnt get to make an "agressive" run. That was on stock suspension except for LCA's and stock rear with 3.42 rear gear, six speed car.
As of right now..we have stripped 120 lbs of weight. Added 45 lbs back with the cage. About 50 lbs was relocated to the rear of the rear axle (nitrous equipment).
Still waiting to go in the car:
*Moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears
*BMR K member with solid mounts (-35 lbs)
*BMR extreme rear sway setup
*HAL shocks all around and front springs
*custom intake
*custom Tq arm
*about 30 more lbs off the nose
*lightweight batt
*truck coils with hotter spark
*voltage blaster for more fuel pressure and spark
*automatic bottle nitrogen pressure setup. Arm it and it will bring pressure up to 1150 psi within 5 seconds. Make a run and it will maintain 1150 psi +/- 50 psi during run. New nitrogen bottle is carbon fiber instead of steel. (-30 lbs)
*third stage wet to add about 100 more HP to bring it right around 800 rwhp.
380ci iron block built by myself
diamond nitrous pistons .040
scat h-beams with apr 2000s
stock offset ground crank 3.71
arp head studs
nitrous cam- my own specs
5.3L heads ported by myself (waiting on dual springs)
my own generic custom 100hp dry shot
LS1 edit tuned by myself
3.73 10 bolt (i had 4.10s for a while but they broke and i got these for free)
pacesetter headers (waiting on daul flows)
i am still debating on which N20 system i am going to go with and which tranny to use. it is a M6 car but i got a TH400 out of my 69 that just might go in there. I am hopping to be were your goal is someday (mid 9s) with this short block but right now with me porting the heads and my little shot of spray i will be happy with anything low 11s or even high 10s. then later with some $$$ heads and DP i might just get there. i might just start another thread of which way i should go about spraying my car.
