Is a dual stage 300 DP possible?????????????
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Becasue I want to be able to have it split, two 150 shots. So I can just arm one if thats all I need/want.
Since DP is the best system for the motor thats what I'd like to do.
I guess a 150 DP, followed by a 150 wet will have to do if its not possible.
Since DP is the best system for the motor thats what I'd like to do.
I guess a 150 DP, followed by a 150 wet will have to do if its not possible.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
or, since it's only a 150 shot, you could just use a single nozzle, and then the DP for the second stage.
that's basically what i'd do, save for a 150, and then a 250-300 on the second stage.
that's basically what i'd do, save for a 150, and then a 250-300 on the second stage.
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
One word of caution, get your timing right. You can't pull timing on the fly in the PCM and a 150 shot to a 300 shot requires a serious difference in timing. You ever drive a car around that's been tuned for 300 at WOT? It lays over like a stuck pig.
The other thing to look at would be to try and run the dual NX nozzles. One nozzle with four jets. Then they make rails that have two lines as well.
Good luck! It takes some serious jewels to spray 300 on the street from a roll, wow!
The other thing to look at would be to try and run the dual NX nozzles. One nozzle with four jets. Then they make rails that have two lines as well.
Good luck! It takes some serious jewels to spray 300 on the street from a roll, wow!
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Originally Posted by DERTY
One word of caution, get your timing right. You can't pull timing on the fly in the PCM and a 150 shot to a 300 shot requires a serious difference in timing. You ever drive a car around that's been tuned for 300 at WOT? It lays over like a stuck pig.
The other thing to look at would be to try and run the dual NX nozzles. One nozzle with four jets. Then they make rails that have two lines as well.
Good luck! It takes some serious jewels to spray 300 on the street from a roll, wow!
The other thing to look at would be to try and run the dual NX nozzles. One nozzle with four jets. Then they make rails that have two lines as well.
Good luck! It takes some serious jewels to spray 300 on the street from a roll, wow!
I was just wanting to know if a dual stage DP can be done just because DP is the safest and cleanest way to spray a motor. A 150 dry followed followed by a 150 wet is what I will do if the daul-stage DP won't work.
But it sounds like it will so far.
Any idea what that set-up would cost, complete and installed?
About the Jewels, how else am I gonna beat those pesky turbo Supras from 50-180mph? Its gonna take 800 RWHP to do it, mine should make that with a daul stage 300.
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we ran a dual stage maf kit for a while pilled at 150/150. we just hit both stages outta da hole. went for several passes till we uncovered the pump on a pass and destroyed the intake and back of the motor. all we had was hypertech tuning to rasie the shift points to
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
A couple thoughts. This nozzle is rather big, so it may not fit very well, even on a FAST intake.
List price from NX is about $2400 with a 10lb bottle. Plus a few hundred to install it, the fuel system to handle it, etc. You're looking reasonably at something that would cost upwards of $3500 to $4000 from scratch.
Another thought, you won't be able to drag race with a true dual setup like the SX2. Too many people would object to it in the rules. Not sure if you are interested in that, but it's something to consider when you do this.
If that's the case a single stage DP is closer to $2k for the complete fuel system, nitrous kit, and hardline install. You have to consider how you want to deliver fuel using either the stock fuel system or a standalone setup, which will vary the price. You could then look at adding the MAF kit or a dry kit for another $900 or so. It would be easier to work with and easier to change the jets on the MAF side. Changing jets on the DP by yourself takes at least 45 minutes if you hustle. Something to think about at least. If it were me, I kinda like this idea more the more I think about it. It just sounds like it would be much easier to work with. Dial it in to run on the DP and then hit the MAF when you need it.
List price from NX is about $2400 with a 10lb bottle. Plus a few hundred to install it, the fuel system to handle it, etc. You're looking reasonably at something that would cost upwards of $3500 to $4000 from scratch.
Another thought, you won't be able to drag race with a true dual setup like the SX2. Too many people would object to it in the rules. Not sure if you are interested in that, but it's something to consider when you do this.
If that's the case a single stage DP is closer to $2k for the complete fuel system, nitrous kit, and hardline install. You have to consider how you want to deliver fuel using either the stock fuel system or a standalone setup, which will vary the price. You could then look at adding the MAF kit or a dry kit for another $900 or so. It would be easier to work with and easier to change the jets on the MAF side. Changing jets on the DP by yourself takes at least 45 minutes if you hustle. Something to think about at least. If it were me, I kinda like this idea more the more I think about it. It just sounds like it would be much easier to work with. Dial it in to run on the DP and then hit the MAF when you need it.
Sounds like a plan. Using the tunign that Al uses, might want to use a dry 100 then a DP 200. The dry tuning from Jeremy is on target. It is set for the max timing at X degrees seen at the MAF. Then you nail the big ****, I mean shot. Hold TFO. I also want a setup like this, for tuning issues so much easier. Plus you can jet the DP to X00 shot, Pro Control it to max of whatever size you want, and later dial it up!
Cat...I think that scenario is about perfect for Quicken. I know he wants is street driven so having a good tune all motor is probably important. Using the 100 or 150 dry first stage will utilize the dry tune method of kicking down the timing for the bigger shots once you begin spraying. A 150-200 on the second stage direct port will really kick ***. Then you just have to find what rpm and what size shot you will run. Like a 100 to 150 dry at 3000 rpm followed by the 150-200 second stage at say 4800 rpm. You can either reduce the size of the second stage and bring it in sooner in the rpm or go bigger and bring it in later...like 5000 rpm. That will all be determined on how your whole combo works out. Tranny/stall/rev limit etc. I personally would like to start with a 100 dry/100 wet. Then if it all looks good step to a 150/150. Or maybe 100 dry 200 wet direct port.
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From: H-town
Quickin, i tell you what. since you are already moving, asumming that you have good sticky tires, just spray all the 300shot at once. then that supra will never know what hit him. hahahahahahaha.
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From: H-town
but is you really want a dual stage DP, i think 383LQ4s idea is the best one to go at it. since a 100-150 wet or dry is completly safe, then turn that system off and spray the 300 through the DP.
Tag..thats a good idea too. The only problem with that is if you shut off the dry and go to full 300 direct....you wont have the dry nitrous tuning running ,kicking down the timing.
If your willing or want to run the nitrous tune all the time there are a ton of ways to get this done...all of which have thier benifits. The problem with that is you will be down considerably on power all motor. Im not sure what your timing will be all motor...but it probably wont be much more than 25 degrees or so. I think when running this large shot you will be pulling between 6- 8 degrees. Probably 20 degrees or less ( I run ~19 degrees). So that will kill alot of NA hp. In that case some sort of timing retard on the juice is the way to go. Either dry tuning or the Timing Tuner. Having a street car and wanting the best of both worlds makes everything a little more complicated.
You should come over one weekend and go for a spin in my car. See how the dual stages feel to you.
If your willing or want to run the nitrous tune all the time there are a ton of ways to get this done...all of which have thier benifits. The problem with that is you will be down considerably on power all motor. Im not sure what your timing will be all motor...but it probably wont be much more than 25 degrees or so. I think when running this large shot you will be pulling between 6- 8 degrees. Probably 20 degrees or less ( I run ~19 degrees). So that will kill alot of NA hp. In that case some sort of timing retard on the juice is the way to go. Either dry tuning or the Timing Tuner. Having a street car and wanting the best of both worlds makes everything a little more complicated.
You should come over one weekend and go for a spin in my car. See how the dual stages feel to you.
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Originally Posted by taqwache
Quickin, i tell you what. since you are already moving, asumming that you have good sticky tires, just spray all the 300shot at once. then that supra will never know what hit him. hahahahahahaha.
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
BTW to everyone,
I thought I heard/read that the dry and wet systems can deprive the rear cylinders of air/fuel causing damage to those pistons. TRUE?
Thats the only reason I was asking about the dual stage DP possibility. I'm having nightmares already that when I get my motor back all re-done and running perfect N/A, the first shot is gonna fry something.
I thought I heard/read that the dry and wet systems can deprive the rear cylinders of air/fuel causing damage to those pistons. TRUE?
Thats the only reason I was asking about the dual stage DP possibility. I'm having nightmares already that when I get my motor back all re-done and running perfect N/A, the first shot is gonna fry something.
Yeah it can, but thats in the really stupid big shots. I was running 175 wet and 200wet for a while. Now I have the NXL and will be reinstalling it with 180-220 jets.
I am telling you, listen to AL, the system is the best way to go, unless you get nailed with a "single power adder, no dual stage system" rule, sounds like your not in that category. I will be steppign up to that system, 100dry (maybe 150 if the injectors can handle it: read : 28.8's) then 200-300NXL. Let the dry take the timing for me. I used to run 33* on NA, and no KR. But with the Nitrous tune, I only get 24-25*. It sucks big time.
With that setup, you can use the dry to whoop mildly modded supras and then kick the hell outta everyon else with that 2nd stage.
I am telling you, listen to AL, the system is the best way to go, unless you get nailed with a "single power adder, no dual stage system" rule, sounds like your not in that category. I will be steppign up to that system, 100dry (maybe 150 if the injectors can handle it: read : 28.8's) then 200-300NXL. Let the dry take the timing for me. I used to run 33* on NA, and no KR. But with the Nitrous tune, I only get 24-25*. It sucks big time.
With that setup, you can use the dry to whoop mildly modded supras and then kick the hell outta everyon else with that 2nd stage.
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Originally Posted by CAT3
Yeah it can, but thats in the really stupid big shots. I was running 175 wet and 200wet for a while. Now I have the NXL and will be reinstalling it with 180-220 jets.
I am telling you, listen to AL, the system is the best way to go, unless you get nailed with a "single power adder, no dual stage system" rule, sounds like your not in that category. I will be steppign up to that system, 100dry (maybe 150 if the injectors can handle it: read : 28.8's) then 200-300NXL. Let the dry take the timing for me. I used to run 33* on NA, and no KR. But with the Nitrous tune, I only get 24-25*. It sucks big time.
With that setup, you can use the dry to whoop mildly modded supras and then kick the hell outta everyon else with that 2nd stage.
I am telling you, listen to AL, the system is the best way to go, unless you get nailed with a "single power adder, no dual stage system" rule, sounds like your not in that category. I will be steppign up to that system, 100dry (maybe 150 if the injectors can handle it: read : 28.8's) then 200-300NXL. Let the dry take the timing for me. I used to run 33* on NA, and no KR. But with the Nitrous tune, I only get 24-25*. It sucks big time.
With that setup, you can use the dry to whoop mildly modded supras and then kick the hell outta everyon else with that 2nd stage.
I'll start with the 150 dry, then add the 150 wet later on. I'm gonna end up spending a little more money than I thought on re-doing my 436. Cam upgrade, re-porting the heads, LS6 upgraded oil valley cover (or something like that), and I have to have my tranny re-done now too.383LQ4SS or anyone: How much will the 150 dry shot cost to buy, everything needed and to have it installed? 100% out the door, ready to spray.
Last edited by Quickin; Dec 23, 2003 at 02:14 PM.
Quikin, make sure you get with someone like Al, or someone who is running the larger dry shots. I have no experience with them, but as i understand it, the dry route taxes your injectors more. Would hate to see a mistake made or little oversight. I would make sure your tuner knows the details about the setup, again, Al may be able to help provide enough info for you and your tuner.
Good luck,
Charlie.
Good luck,
Charlie.