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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 09:45 PM
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Default nitrous vs. motor

i have an auto car and i was wondering do you pretty much have to decide about running nitrous when you buy your stall ?....will a car be either a nitrous car or an all motor car or can you make it run great n/a times and great nitrous times....will setting your car up for nitrous greatly raise your all motor times ?..just curious because i want to run my car all motor but am highly considering a nitrous setup and im buying a stall so i am wondering if i have to decide weather i want my car to run best n/a or with spray or can i set it up for both...thanks sorry so long and confusing...
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 00blacka4
i have an auto car and i was wondering do you pretty much have to decide about running nitrous when you buy your stall ?....will a car be either a nitrous car or an all motor car or can you make it run great n/a times and great nitrous times....will setting your car up for nitrous greatly raise your all motor times ?..just curious because i want to run my car all motor but am highly considering a nitrous setup and im buying a stall so i am wondering if i have to decide weather i want my car to run best n/a or with spray or can i set it up for both...thanks sorry so long and confusing...
Stay around a 3600 for a car that will see a lot of both. I wouldn't go over a 3800. Some people go as small as a 3200 but most I have seen are a turd on motor then.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
Stay around a 3600 for a car that will see a lot of both. I wouldn't go over a 3800. Some people go as small as a 3200 but most I have seen are a turd on motor then.
That is not a true statement, the converter flash or stall you are stating here doesnt have a whole lot to do with a nitrous vs motor converter. You can have nitrous converters with stalls of 5000 that will be super tight on motor. There is a lot more to a converter then just the stall or flash. It has to do with how much it locks up over a pass or how tight it is and what rpm it drops on the shift.

Therefore, why an off the shelf converter is not the best idea. That is all.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by camscam02
That is not a true statement, the converter flash or stall you are stating here doesnt have a whole lot to do with a nitrous vs motor converter. You can have nitrous converters with stalls of 5000 that will be super tight on motor. There is a lot more to a converter then just the stall or flash. It has to do with how much it locks up over a pass or how tight it is and what rpm it drops on the shift.

Therefore, why an off the shelf converter is not the best idea. That is all.
I was assuming we were talking 500-800$ converters.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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Agree..

My Pro Edge 4000 stall is configured for my setup.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
I was assuming we were talking 500-800$ converters.
Price should have nothing to do with it. And yes you can have what I explained for the price you listed. All it takes is a good converter builder.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 00blacka4
just curious because i want to run my car all motor but am highly considering a nitrous setup and im buying a stall so i am wondering if i have to decide weather i want my car to run best n/a or with spray or can i set it up for both...thanks sorry so long and confusing...
Many here have had good luck with an off the shelf converter for both n/a and nitrous, but you may want to contact a converter company (FTI, Edge, Circle D) that can custom build one for your needs.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by camscam02
Price should have nothing to do with it. And yes you can have what I explained for the price you listed. All it takes is a good converter builder.
What sponsor would do it?
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
What sponsor would do it?
FTI is who I recommend. Im not sure on there 4l60 prices but it should be within that range. Greg there will be able to build a converter to the best of his ability's to satisfy n/a and nitrous combos.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by camscam02
FTI is who I recommend. Im not sure on there 4l60 prices but it should be within that range. Greg there will be able to build a converter to the best of his ability's to satisfy n/a and nitrous combos.
Did not know you could pick a custom converter up for that cheap, learn something every day!
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 04:26 AM
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You can't make GREAT times both ways. You can make very good times both ways with exacltly the right converter. A good nitrous conveter will hurt your N/A times because it will be a bit tight. A good N/A converter will be a bit high for the nitrous so you will be stalling it a bit higher then your ideal set up on the juice. If you go with a mid range converter and have it specked for your goals, you can make very good times both ways.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 06:43 AM
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I have a protorque converter on motor i've gone 12.38 with a best of a 1.78 60'. On spray i've gone 11.04 with a best of 1.54 60'. I've never had a traction issue which on bottle or motor, but on motor just cant get it to leave harder
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