WTF - 57rwhp form a 100 wet shot (Dyno chart inside)
03-02-2010, 09:31 PM
#41
Had my car dynoed last week and it made 433RWHP/489RWTQ on motor and 490RWHP/570RWTQ on spray. Mods are: TR custom cam speced by predator-z (231/240 .643/.608 112+4), TSP-PRC 5.3 stg 2.5 heads, TH400, custom 4000 stall by FTI, TNT F2 (100 shot), 3.73 gears, LS6 intake and Full bolt-ons.
As you can see in the charts I've only gained a 57hp form 100 shot where the dual nozzle TNT with a 100 shot should make 125whp.
In should be noted that the bottle that I used on the dyno used at the strip with a 300 shot and it wasn't with a pressure gage nor a heater and those two runs was on an open cutout, running on 95 octane fuel and TR6 plugs.
It run an AFR of 13.03 NA which is good, but with the shot it was rich (11.31) Is that can be caused when I run out nitrous or from a low bottle pressure?
Could you guys please help me on that?
N/A
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...pen_cutout.jpg
N20
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...pen_cutout.jpg
As you can see in the charts I've only gained a 57hp form 100 shot where the dual nozzle TNT with a 100 shot should make 125whp.
In should be noted that the bottle that I used on the dyno used at the strip with a 300 shot and it wasn't with a pressure gage nor a heater and those two runs was on an open cutout, running on 95 octane fuel and TR6 plugs.
It run an AFR of 13.03 NA which is good, but with the shot it was rich (11.31) Is that can be caused when I run out nitrous or from a low bottle pressure?
Could you guys please help me on that?
N/A
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...pen_cutout.jpg
N20
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...pen_cutout.jpg
Is the short block a stock bottom end or is it a built forged piston short block? What compresson ratio is it? Do you plan to run pump gas while you are spraying or do you plan on runing some kind of racing fuel? If so what kind exactly? Have you upgraded the cooling system, if so what engine coolant temp do you expect to run when juicing it? I am sure this is a dumb question, but are you also having it tuned for nitrous? Is this a street strip car, or a drag car, or a full all out competition car? What is your race weight? What is the alltitude at our location? Lots of questions I know but the more info you can give the better answers you will get.
03-02-2010, 09:36 PM
#42
I'm out. Sorry to the OP for the thread hijack
didn't mean to tear up your thread here.
Get with the guys I mentioned in my previous threads they will point you in the right direction They are not running fast and shooting big shots for no reason.
Good luck with your car. Do your research and find the bset way to tune your car
didn't mean to tear up your thread here. Get with the guys I mentioned in my previous threads they will point you in the right direction They are not running fast and shooting big shots for no reason.
Good luck with your car. Do your research and find the bset way to tune your car
03-02-2010, 09:42 PM
#43
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2. you will blow up alot of motors tuning that way.
If you see knock on a stock computer its to late. DO NOT count on knock sensors to tell you the motor is detonating.
3. Put a old plug and spark plug changing tools in the car and pull a plug or 2 at the end of the track. Did that for years before we got a enclosed trailer and a 4 wheeler.
If you see knock on a stock computer its to late. DO NOT count on knock sensors to tell you the motor is detonating.
3. Put a old plug and spark plug changing tools in the car and pull a plug or 2 at the end of the track. Did that for years before we got a enclosed trailer and a 4 wheeler.
3.This is all fine and I completely agree that checking the plugs is a good way to be sure and dont have a problem doing it myself.My problem is that you guys kinda get a little technical with guys that might not know enough to be told to do something such as "forget the wideband and read your plugs".
and I completely agree with Texasws6,you guys are flaming on people for making legitimate suggestions.
Okay now Im really done
03-02-2010, 09:42 PM
#44
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#1 what jets are you using? The TNT kit is a duel nozzle design so the math is totally different than a single nozzle design. #2 install some NGK 7`s. #3 get a pressure gauge try it with 1000psi. #4 tune it with a wideband AND read plugs 6,7,&8! Good luck, I love my TNT kit.
03-02-2010, 10:10 PM
#45
I have not read through all this but I do have a few questions.
What jets are in the nozzles?
What plugs and gap?
What is the base timing N/A and what is it on the nitrous?
I seen your airfuel was 11.3. 11.8 would be more idea to see the power coming around. to only see 57 hp even with that though there is something else that has me interested.
For thye guys argueing about airfuel this is my take. You will find alot opinions on this and the truth is I give different advice to different people for tuning in the airfuel.
Someone like ATV, Shiz etc I would have no problem telling them to tune the car by reading plugs and shooting for a 12.5 airfuel or leaner but for the average street guy (ls1tech I feel that would be horrible advice and I would suggest no leaner than 11.8 and no richer than 11.5.
Let me explain why. When giving advice I feel you need to concider who you are giving advice to. I also feel you need to concider in which manner they are using there car and what there abilities are.
Someone like ATV, Shiz, Smith, RPM, etc are using there cars in a complete different manner than someone using there acr as a weekend warrior. There knowledge and abilities are far more advanced than someone newer to the sport. Someone like the guys mentioned here are more than likely or should be pulling there plugs between every pass. There cars are race cars. They do there own tunning and they have the ability to make educated decisions to stay on top of there tune up. Therefore running a more aggressive tune to get every ounce of power out of there set up is more understandable for them.
Now for someone that does not have a great understanding of reading plugs or tunning there own car advising them to run a more aggressive tune is setting them up for failure. For someone that is looking for a safe all around tune that will not be looking at there tune everytime they take the car off the trailor or yanking the plugs after every pass I would suggest the 11.8 range. At 11.8 airfuel there may still be a few horses left compared to a leaner more aggressive tune but the truth is its safe. It will still make good power and the guy can have non stop reliable results.
It is important to compare these differences when trying to provide someone with help. I have learned sometimes you have to feed someone knowledge slowly as there knowldge grows from experience and allows them to obsorbe the knowledge correctly.. YOu would not strap a guy use to driving a 15 second honda in a seven second camaro would you? Same goes for advice.
Dave
What jets are in the nozzles?
What plugs and gap?
What is the base timing N/A and what is it on the nitrous?
I seen your airfuel was 11.3. 11.8 would be more idea to see the power coming around. to only see 57 hp even with that though there is something else that has me interested.
For thye guys argueing about airfuel this is my take. You will find alot opinions on this and the truth is I give different advice to different people for tuning in the airfuel.
Someone like ATV, Shiz etc I would have no problem telling them to tune the car by reading plugs and shooting for a 12.5 airfuel or leaner but for the average street guy (ls1tech I feel that would be horrible advice and I would suggest no leaner than 11.8 and no richer than 11.5.
Let me explain why. When giving advice I feel you need to concider who you are giving advice to. I also feel you need to concider in which manner they are using there car and what there abilities are.
Someone like ATV, Shiz, Smith, RPM, etc are using there cars in a complete different manner than someone using there acr as a weekend warrior. There knowledge and abilities are far more advanced than someone newer to the sport. Someone like the guys mentioned here are more than likely or should be pulling there plugs between every pass. There cars are race cars. They do there own tunning and they have the ability to make educated decisions to stay on top of there tune up. Therefore running a more aggressive tune to get every ounce of power out of there set up is more understandable for them.
Now for someone that does not have a great understanding of reading plugs or tunning there own car advising them to run a more aggressive tune is setting them up for failure. For someone that is looking for a safe all around tune that will not be looking at there tune everytime they take the car off the trailor or yanking the plugs after every pass I would suggest the 11.8 range. At 11.8 airfuel there may still be a few horses left compared to a leaner more aggressive tune but the truth is its safe. It will still make good power and the guy can have non stop reliable results.
It is important to compare these differences when trying to provide someone with help. I have learned sometimes you have to feed someone knowledge slowly as there knowldge grows from experience and allows them to obsorbe the knowledge correctly.. YOu would not strap a guy use to driving a 15 second honda in a seven second camaro would you? Same goes for advice.
Dave
03-02-2010, 10:15 PM
#46
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I have not read through all this but I do have a few questions.
What jets are in the nozzles?
What plugs and gap?
What is the base timing N/A and what is it on the nitrous?
I seen your airfuel was 11.3. 11.8 would be more idea to see the power coming around. to only see 57 hp even with that though there is something else that has me interested.
For thye guys argueing about airfuel this is my take. You will find alot opinions on this and the truth is I give different advice to different people for tuning in the airfuel.
Someone like ATV, Shiz etc I would have no problem telling them to tune the car by reading plugs and shooting for a 12.5 airfuel or leaner but for the average street guy (ls1tech I feel that would be horrible advice and I would suggest no leaner than 11.8 and no richer than 11.5.
Let me explain why. When giving advice I feel you need to concider who you are giving advice to. I also feel you need to concider in which manner they are using there car and what there abilities are.
Someone like ATV, Shiz, Smith, RPM, etc are using there cars in a complete different manner than someone using there acr as a weekend warrior. There knowledge and abilities are far more advanced than someone newer to the sport. Someone like the guys mentioned here are more than likely or should be pulling there plugs between every pass. There cars are race cars. They do there own tunning and they have the ability to make educated decisions to stay on top of there tune up. Therefore running a more aggressive tune to get every ounce of power out of there set up is more understandable for them.
Now for someone that does not have a great understanding of reading plugs or tunning there own car advising them to run a more aggressive tune is setting them up for failure. For someone that is looking for a safe all around tune that will not be looking at there tune everytime they take the car off the trailor or yanking the plugs after every pass I would suggest the 11.8 range. At 11.8 airfuel there may still be a few horses left compared to a leaner more aggressive tune but the truth is its safe. It will still make good power and the guy can have non stop reliable results.
It is important to compare these differences when trying to provide someone with help. I have learned sometimes you have to feed someone knowledge slowly as there knowldge grows from experience. YOu would not strap a guy use to driving a 15 second honda in a seven second camaro would you? Same goes for advice.
Dave
What jets are in the nozzles?
What plugs and gap?
What is the base timing N/A and what is it on the nitrous?
I seen your airfuel was 11.3. 11.8 would be more idea to see the power coming around. to only see 57 hp even with that though there is something else that has me interested.
For thye guys argueing about airfuel this is my take. You will find alot opinions on this and the truth is I give different advice to different people for tuning in the airfuel.
Someone like ATV, Shiz etc I would have no problem telling them to tune the car by reading plugs and shooting for a 12.5 airfuel or leaner but for the average street guy (ls1tech I feel that would be horrible advice and I would suggest no leaner than 11.8 and no richer than 11.5.
Let me explain why. When giving advice I feel you need to concider who you are giving advice to. I also feel you need to concider in which manner they are using there car and what there abilities are.
Someone like ATV, Shiz, Smith, RPM, etc are using there cars in a complete different manner than someone using there acr as a weekend warrior. There knowledge and abilities are far more advanced than someone newer to the sport. Someone like the guys mentioned here are more than likely or should be pulling there plugs between every pass. There cars are race cars. They do there own tunning and they have the ability to make educated decisions to stay on top of there tune up. Therefore running a more aggressive tune to get every ounce of power out of there set up is more understandable for them.
Now for someone that does not have a great understanding of reading plugs or tunning there own car advising them to run a more aggressive tune is setting them up for failure. For someone that is looking for a safe all around tune that will not be looking at there tune everytime they take the car off the trailor or yanking the plugs after every pass I would suggest the 11.8 range. At 11.8 airfuel there may still be a few horses left compared to a leaner more aggressive tune but the truth is its safe. It will still make good power and the guy can have non stop reliable results.
It is important to compare these differences when trying to provide someone with help. I have learned sometimes you have to feed someone knowledge slowly as there knowldge grows from experience. YOu would not strap a guy use to driving a 15 second honda in a seven second camaro would you? Same goes for advice.
Dave
03-02-2010, 10:43 PM
#47
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^x2
I believe dave summed it up for plenty of guys including me. I have a halfway decent setup but it is not my "race car" that i only trailer to the track to race like some of you guys. This is my only car and it has to get me to work and school everyday. Although at the same time I'd like to make damn good power and stay consistent without pushing my buttons every time I go WOT whether i'm on the street or at the track.
Kody-
I believe dave summed it up for plenty of guys including me. I have a halfway decent setup but it is not my "race car" that i only trailer to the track to race like some of you guys. This is my only car and it has to get me to work and school everyday. Although at the same time I'd like to make damn good power and stay consistent without pushing my buttons every time I go WOT whether i'm on the street or at the track.
Kody-
03-03-2010, 08:35 AM
#49
I have not read through all this but I do have a few questions.
What jets are in the nozzles?
What plugs and gap?
What is the base timing N/A and what is it on the nitrous?
I seen your airfuel was 11.3. 11.8 would be more idea to see the power coming around. to only see 57 hp even with that though there is something else that has me interested.
For thye guys argueing about airfuel this is my take. You will find alot opinions on this and the truth is I give different advice to different people for tuning in the airfuel.
Someone like ATV, Shiz etc I would have no problem telling them to tune the car by reading plugs and shooting for a 12.5 airfuel or leaner but for the average street guy (ls1tech I feel that would be horrible advice and I would suggest no leaner than 11.8 and no richer than 11.5.
Let me explain why. When giving advice I feel you need to concider who you are giving advice to. I also feel you need to concider in which manner they are using there car and what there abilities are.
Someone like ATV, Shiz, Smith, RPM, etc are using there cars in a complete different manner than someone using there acr as a weekend warrior. There knowledge and abilities are far more advanced than someone newer to the sport. Someone like the guys mentioned here are more than likely or should be pulling there plugs between every pass. There cars are race cars. They do there own tunning and they have the ability to make educated decisions to stay on top of there tune up. Therefore running a more aggressive tune to get every ounce of power out of there set up is more understandable for them.
Now for someone that does not have a great understanding of reading plugs or tunning there own car advising them to run a more aggressive tune is setting them up for failure. For someone that is looking for a safe all around tune that will not be looking at there tune everytime they take the car off the trailor or yanking the plugs after every pass I would suggest the 11.8 range. At 11.8 airfuel there may still be a few horses left compared to a leaner more aggressive tune but the truth is its safe. It will still make good power and the guy can have non stop reliable results.
It is important to compare these differences when trying to provide someone with help. I have learned sometimes you have to feed someone knowledge slowly as there knowldge grows from experience and allows them to obsorbe the knowledge correctly.. YOu would not strap a guy use to driving a 15 second honda in a seven second camaro would you? Same goes for advice.
Dave
What jets are in the nozzles?
What plugs and gap?
What is the base timing N/A and what is it on the nitrous?
I seen your airfuel was 11.3. 11.8 would be more idea to see the power coming around. to only see 57 hp even with that though there is something else that has me interested.
For thye guys argueing about airfuel this is my take. You will find alot opinions on this and the truth is I give different advice to different people for tuning in the airfuel.
Someone like ATV, Shiz etc I would have no problem telling them to tune the car by reading plugs and shooting for a 12.5 airfuel or leaner but for the average street guy (ls1tech I feel that would be horrible advice and I would suggest no leaner than 11.8 and no richer than 11.5.
Let me explain why. When giving advice I feel you need to concider who you are giving advice to. I also feel you need to concider in which manner they are using there car and what there abilities are.
Someone like ATV, Shiz, Smith, RPM, etc are using there cars in a complete different manner than someone using there acr as a weekend warrior. There knowledge and abilities are far more advanced than someone newer to the sport. Someone like the guys mentioned here are more than likely or should be pulling there plugs between every pass. There cars are race cars. They do there own tunning and they have the ability to make educated decisions to stay on top of there tune up. Therefore running a more aggressive tune to get every ounce of power out of there set up is more understandable for them.
Now for someone that does not have a great understanding of reading plugs or tunning there own car advising them to run a more aggressive tune is setting them up for failure. For someone that is looking for a safe all around tune that will not be looking at there tune everytime they take the car off the trailor or yanking the plugs after every pass I would suggest the 11.8 range. At 11.8 airfuel there may still be a few horses left compared to a leaner more aggressive tune but the truth is its safe. It will still make good power and the guy can have non stop reliable results.
It is important to compare these differences when trying to provide someone with help. I have learned sometimes you have to feed someone knowledge slowly as there knowldge grows from experience and allows them to obsorbe the knowledge correctly.. YOu would not strap a guy use to driving a 15 second honda in a seven second camaro would you? Same goes for advice.
Dave
I know you think we are giving guys promod tune up advice but I have not told anyone to run there cars the way we do and I wont unless they are trying to do the same sort of things we are.
I'll just say we can disagree on this.... 11.8 is to rich IMO.
Here are Steve Johnson, Monte Smith take on A/F .....
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ht=A%2FF+ratio
Jeff Prock tells me all the time to run our stuff close to what we run it on motor.
03-03-2010, 08:38 AM
#50
^x2
I believe dave summed it up for plenty of guys including me. I have a halfway decent setup but it is not my "race car" that i only trailer to the track to race like some of you guys. This is my only car and it has to get me to work and school everyday. Although at the same time I'd like to make damn good power and stay consistent without pushing my buttons every time I go WOT whether i'm on the street or at the track.
Kody-
I believe dave summed it up for plenty of guys including me. I have a halfway decent setup but it is not my "race car" that i only trailer to the track to race like some of you guys. This is my only car and it has to get me to work and school everyday. Although at the same time I'd like to make damn good power and stay consistent without pushing my buttons every time I go WOT whether i'm on the street or at the track.
Kody-
Why cant you have a daily driven car with a good nitrous tune?
Does it need to be rich and down on power because you drive it alot?
03-03-2010, 09:30 AM
#51
ATV,
Not directing my comments directly to you. Hope you did not take it that way. Although I would say you probably started the curve that all the repeat artist are following if you know what I mean.lol
We can agree to disagree on this area.. I still give you props...
We run our race cars to a clean plug which is around the airfuel you like. Not the street cars we tune though.. And we have tuned more cars than I can recall over the years and have yet to hurt a one of them.. I evaluate each car and owner before decideing what direction I am going to go with them..
Same as I do picking what Nitrous system is best suited for them
Dave
Not directing my comments directly to you. Hope you did not take it that way. Although I would say you probably started the curve that all the repeat artist are following if you know what I mean.lol
We can agree to disagree on this area.. I still give you props...
We run our race cars to a clean plug which is around the airfuel you like. Not the street cars we tune though.. And we have tuned more cars than I can recall over the years and have yet to hurt a one of them.. I evaluate each car and owner before decideing what direction I am going to go with them..
Same as I do picking what Nitrous system is best suited for them
Dave
03-03-2010, 09:38 AM
#52
Ill read that thread later.. Unfortintly you have to look at Steve, Monty and procks customer base in concideration. There customer base again is not the average LS1 tech, or average street guy. The advice they give on set airfuel is based around the best optimized performance and again there customer base is reading spark plugs and most of them are track only cars..
This is an entirely different market and sometimes you have to protect people from them selfs as they grow in experience. There are many cars that come from the dealer off the show room floor running an airfuel in the 11s. My 2010 camaro was something like 11.4 maybe richer. GM would not give the warrenty they do if they were sending out unsafe tuneups. I have never in my entire carrier seen anyone damage a motor due to an 11.8 airfuel.. Hoever every time I go to the track those good old carburated boys that have that lean mean tune up and dont stay on top of it are poping left and right everytime its a good crisp night..
So my point is the correct answer on where to tune is dependent on the individual and how they are using the car.. Again that is just my opinion.. You know what they say about opinions..lol
Dave
This is an entirely different market and sometimes you have to protect people from them selfs as they grow in experience. There are many cars that come from the dealer off the show room floor running an airfuel in the 11s. My 2010 camaro was something like 11.4 maybe richer. GM would not give the warrenty they do if they were sending out unsafe tuneups. I have never in my entire carrier seen anyone damage a motor due to an 11.8 airfuel.. Hoever every time I go to the track those good old carburated boys that have that lean mean tune up and dont stay on top of it are poping left and right everytime its a good crisp night..
So my point is the correct answer on where to tune is dependent on the individual and how they are using the car.. Again that is just my opinion.. You know what they say about opinions..lol
Dave
03-03-2010, 10:49 AM
#54
Thats what I get for trying to pretend I know how to spell.
Long story short. Some customers just need common information. The guys needing more advanced information I try to help them one on one.
Dave
03-03-2010, 10:54 AM
#55
Sometimes you just can't. They are a stubborn ole' mule that are stuck in their ways. No matter what you do you can't convince them that their "hogged out camel humps" are outdated and don't flow any better that a iron vortec head. Same goes with this nitrous thing. Alot of people out there still have the mentality that richer is safer. Which we all know isn't entirely true. Just keep on teaching, sooner or later they will learn.
03-05-2010, 08:15 AM
#56
Dave says it all, Right away people jump in without knowing the basics and intentions of the car, Like Tony shepherds car, Yes, even on the Dyno we pull a plug on every pass, Why? we are looking for the most efficient, safe and maximum horsepower levels, Do I do this on an average street car on Nitrous, No. Everyone will have their own opinions, everyone has a method that works for them, I have seen other shops blow up motors on a measly 150 shot. Area of where the cars are being tuned, maybe some states (DA) can tolerate leaner/richer AF, Timing, All this has to be taken into consideration.
03-05-2010, 08:35 AM
#57
Used Bottle (unknown amount of Nitrous). VERY BAD that if you have been running one shot of 300 or 3-2 runs based on a 100-150, either way you should always have a filled bottle, its better for consistancy.
No pressure guage. Very dangerous as if you do heat it up (maybe a hotwater bath, or though a heater, you have no clue where it is at and if you purge it, it drops so you may need to be above the mark your going to make the pull at.
No heater. Working off the 2nd point, again, unless your putting a blow torch to it (very bad, but works, but still creates a hot spot and the Nitrous is not heated evenly like it would with a heated wrap or hotwater bath).
TR-6 Plugs. I am sorry, Tr-6 's are good plugs for a N/A motor making 400+ HP. Unless you run good fuel (which 95 oct is not) your safe window shrinks.
I am all about being safe and considering your wallet. I am a big advocate for running a stand alone Fuel Cell and that will make the most difference becuase you know whats in there, and when the shot is being run, its getting pure race gas (see C16).
In your situation, you probably running with too little Nitrous in the bottle and it is not heated up enough to be purged correctly and thats why the output was not optimal due to the fact you have no clue what was happening with the pressure and avalible nitrous.
03-05-2010, 09:20 AM
#59
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2.Im just saying if it comes to me getting another degree or two of timing with a little richer tune I think i would go that route as long as there are no signs of knock(detonation) and it makes more power.If it doesnt give more power than there is no use in the timing anyway.
3.At my track the return road is probably 3 times as long as the track and most of us dont have pit crews and golf carts to drag us around.
You didnt say to forget the wideband but it was said.And I agree with the rest of your statement.
And sorry to the OP,IM done.
3.At my track the return road is probably 3 times as long as the track and most of us dont have pit crews and golf carts to drag us around.
You didnt say to forget the wideband but it was said.And I agree with the rest of your statement.
And sorry to the OP,IM done.
What track is this if you don't mind me asking, I really want to look up a picture of it to see how they routed it.
03-05-2010, 12:26 PM
#60
I am kind of confused here, if you are saying 11:1 is too rich and can cause the ring lands to lift then someone needs to call the GM engineers and let them know they are programming these cars to command at wide open throttle the following EQ ratio.
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EQ Ratio
11.48
11.48
11.48
11.48
11.58
11.67
11.26
11.37
11.50
11.55
11.58
11.61
11.56
11.55
11.59
11.60
11.62
11.35
11.31
Man they are going to have a bunch of warranty issues!!!
I tune cars all the time and yes I shoot for 12.8:1 AFR on a naturally aspirated car, but when tuning a Nitrous or Forced Induction car I target 11.8:1 AFR. Yes there is power left on the table, but in order for my customers to get that extra power with leaner AFR's on FI tunes they can not run pump fuel because of detonation issues. They would have to run something like VP116 race fuel, which will kill their NB O2's.
Also for a side note, reading a cars plugs that is not running the PCM in Open Loop only will be of no use (in determining Lean/rich conditions) because the PCM will target/command 14.7:1 AFR(or stoic) any time the car is not at wide open throttle, so the lean condition will burn off any residue left and make the plug look lean. I am sure those guys you mentioned are looking at plugs on a car that has been tuned to run Open loop only while it is being tuned or they are looking for signs of detonation to help determine the timing the car can safely get to. My point here is in the OP situation, reading the plugs will not tell him if he is too rich.
OP, I am sure your situation is caused from the bottle pressure, and a little from the large stall you have. Large stalls will eat up power on the dyno. Speedcrazy, BigDB and Camscam02 are correct in their advice to you. The reason your AFR is 11.3:1 instead of 11.8:1 is because the bottle pressure was down probably due to temp. You will see the power you expect once you have the bottle heater on it correctly. The only other thing from a tuner stand point that could also be causing the power to come down could be if the PCM is seeing a little knock and is in return pulling timing. I am sure your tuner can iron out any issues like that for you.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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11.48
11.48
11.48
11.58
11.67
11.26
11.37
11.50
11.55
11.58
11.61
11.56
11.55
11.59
11.60
11.62
11.35
11.31
Man they are going to have a bunch of warranty issues!!!
I tune cars all the time and yes I shoot for 12.8:1 AFR on a naturally aspirated car, but when tuning a Nitrous or Forced Induction car I target 11.8:1 AFR. Yes there is power left on the table, but in order for my customers to get that extra power with leaner AFR's on FI tunes they can not run pump fuel because of detonation issues. They would have to run something like VP116 race fuel, which will kill their NB O2's.
Also for a side note, reading a cars plugs that is not running the PCM in Open Loop only will be of no use (in determining Lean/rich conditions) because the PCM will target/command 14.7:1 AFR(or stoic) any time the car is not at wide open throttle, so the lean condition will burn off any residue left and make the plug look lean. I am sure those guys you mentioned are looking at plugs on a car that has been tuned to run Open loop only while it is being tuned or they are looking for signs of detonation to help determine the timing the car can safely get to. My point here is in the OP situation, reading the plugs will not tell him if he is too rich.
OP, I am sure your situation is caused from the bottle pressure, and a little from the large stall you have. Large stalls will eat up power on the dyno. Speedcrazy, BigDB and Camscam02 are correct in their advice to you. The reason your AFR is 11.3:1 instead of 11.8:1 is because the bottle pressure was down probably due to temp. You will see the power you expect once you have the bottle heater on it correctly. The only other thing from a tuner stand point that could also be causing the power to come down could be if the PCM is seeing a little knock and is in return pulling timing. I am sure your tuner can iron out any issues like that for you.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Open or closed loop has nothing to do with it. cut the car off at the stripe and look at the plugs.....
BTW a lean idle will not burn off anything. pull your plugs after idling and ill pull mine aft6er a 1/4 trip and ill bett 100.00 yours are grey to black and mine look like new. the problem with idle is to cloud the plugs/brown them not clean them up it covers the fuel ring and makes it unreadable.