Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Don't throw any money at it until you can answer 3 questions and check over your wiring and inspect the solenoids...I just don't want to see you buy something and it doesn't work, you know what I mean? If you don't feel comfortable looking at the solenoids, feel free to send them back to us or shoot me a PM and I can help walk you through on what to look for and how to pull them apart.

What does fuel pressure look like through the run?

What is timing doing?

What is your voltage through the run?

This will give us a lot of insight into what could be going on.

Nick

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

I definitely want to get a fuel pressure gauge on it (even if there wasn't a problem, it was on my to do list).

I'm finding out now what the timing was set to do (RPM tuned it, so I'm just waiting for them to get back to me). I should be able to check it as we do it next time I get it on the dyno too.

I will definitely check the voltage.

Is there a way to safely check all this with the nitrous components working? I don't want to keep running the spray if it's lean.

Thanks for the help!

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

What everyone here should understand, is that a nitrous kit isn't something you can just bolt on, and it be perfect. Every engine is going to be different. I don't think you have a problem with the system. It is just going to take some fine tuning to get the system where you want it, whether you adjust the fuel pressure, or change jets. There are other jets available, other than what you have. The important thing when tuning nitrous, is to read the plugs to really find what the engine wants, rather than going off of a generic a/f ratio. I would also suspect it going richer later into the run, is due to the bottle pressure falling off. I don't recall you mentioning your starting bottle pressure during the pulls......

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Bottle pressure started at 950 every run and dropped to 900 every run.

I have a ton of jets and tried most of them. It's definitely not something that's gonna be fixed by playing with jet sizes.

The .040 fuel jet is not right for a 100 shot. There's no way that the kit recommends a .028 as a starting point with that nitrous jet and it really needs a jet that big (which still has it lean). Something else is up for sure.

I will say that I ran the kit for a year (before the heads) with the recommended jetting and just checked plugs. They always looked perfect. After the heads it went on the dyno, was sprayed, and was running so lean that they had to abort the pull. I've been trying to get it figured out since then.

I'm not saying that the system is defective or anything. The kit has been on the car for over a year, so it might have a part going bad, or might not even be the kit itself, just something that is affected by the use of the kit. On motor the air/fuel is good so I can't just adjust the air/fuel with the tune to the best of my knowledge, as that would put it out of wack on motor.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

Out of curiousity for when I install my kit....you mean voltage to the solenoids, or the total system output (alternator)? I'm a bit confussed on this.

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

Check the entire system and the solenoids. A alternator that isn't putting out enough juice can cause havoc on a nitrous system. Late last season I was having issues with mine and it was causing the solenoids to pulse at high rpm.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Compiling a list of what to check, thanks for all the advice guys!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Did RPM put the hotwire kit on your fuel pump? If not I'd start with putting that on, just to make sure the pump is getting enough voltage.

Usually if it's a pump problem though, the thing will go lean at the top not get rich like it is. That being said the fuel jet you have is way big IMO, and judging from the look of what I am seeing, I would probably decrease the line length from the fuel solenoid to the plate, becuase that will help get rid of the initial lean spike that you are seeing. Fuel will have less distance to travel, etc. That kit had alot of line length on the nitrous and the fuel side, I'd probably start by getting both of those shortened up as much as possible, I don't like adjusting the timing of a kit by the line length. Old school days they would put a long *** nitrous line on between the plate/jet and the noid, so it would take a while for the nitrous to get there. You want the fuel line as short as possible, because that's under a good bit less pressure, and your nitrous line should be 3 maybe 4 inches longer TOPS, so that way the higher pressure nitrous will get there at the same time.

Change your fuel filter too, just to be safe that there's nothing going on there too.


If you had yours wired up the same way I have the kit on my car I'd just tell ya to toss the whole thing on and see what happens, just from the main feed line forward.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Judging from the power #'s once you get it strait, you're gonna be on borrowed time too by the way with the stock pistons... wanna buy a 402? I'll pay to have it ripped apart and rings and bearings put in if you want to buy a set of pump gas compression ratio pistons to put in it, or you can leave it alone and just deal with the one station that sells the 110 octane on teh turnpike, or get a drum from Guy......

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info, Jay. That's a good idea with the lines even if it has nothing to do with the problems I'm having. Can't hurt to have the fuel get there first.

I'm gonna look up that wiring kit for the fuel pump. If it wasn't part of my pump kit then I'll pick one up.

Fuel filter definitely couldn't hurt either.

As for the power, I'm thinking it's gonna be in the 530/570 range on the 100 shot. I'll probably try to dial in the 75 jets too for the street.

Not sure what I'm gonna do about the bottom end yet. I've got several ideas cooking. Just gotta see how long this setup lasts and what I have for money.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Please, a month or 2 of OT for you and you could buy my whole motor LOL.

Definitely get the lines shortened up, you actually want the nitrous and fuel to get there together, to mix/atomize and be carried into the intake together.

The grounds, I don't remember exactly how you had that done but I'd use a gold plated terminal ring and a star washer so it digs into both the ground surface and the terminal ring good, solder every crimp terminal as well. If you need a hand with it lemme know I will be around this Sunday and can help go over all that just to be 100% sure.

Did you by chance pull a plug after a hit on the dyno to see what it looked like? Also, at the power level you are, anything over 500 rwhp with a stock shortblock I'd be swapping to a #7 plug. Not sure how good the tune is but that will put it to the test, if it's rich/wrong at idle, it's gonna shop up in a new york minute with the colder plug, if it's right, it will be fine though.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

246 RWTQ gain looks nice!

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

I think you better just sell the car and buy a C6 Z06 with a warranty.