harris speedworks nitrous kit
The reason you are stepping up jet sizes is you are seeing it go lean early, say from 4-5200 or so and then go to where it should be afr wise, and you are trying to fix the early part. Which you dont need to, you should worry where you are most of the time when WOT say 5600-6500 or so, because on a wot nitrous pass you wont touch that early section, thats ofcourse what I think you guys are doing wrong.
In the realm of things for example a 62N jet and a 35F jet at 60psi is pretty rich, if you would look at the plugs you would see this. I have messed with a good number of these cars with plates in the regions you guys are talking and not one have I had to go up on the fuel jet.
In the realm of things for example a 62N jet and a 35F jet at 60psi is pretty rich, if you would look at the plugs you would see this. I have messed with a good number of these cars with plates in the regions you guys are talking and not one have I had to go up on the fuel jet.
Rather just do the tech thing on here through PM's if the phone isn't an option
The reason you are stepping up jet sizes is you are seeing it go lean early, say from 4-5200 or so and then go to where it should be afr wise, and you are trying to fix the early part. Which you dont need to, you should worry where you are most of the time when WOT say 5600-6500 or so, because on a wot nitrous pass you wont touch that early section, thats ofcourse what I think you guys are doing wrong.
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; Mar 24, 2010 at 09:56 AM.
That's what I'm saying. I do stay on the line and talk to a real person. They always listen to my question and then say, "what you want to do is go to our website and punch a trouble ticket there..."
Rather just do the tech thing on here through PM's if the phone isn't an option
If you spray it off the line you will definitely hit that lower rpm. I'd rather have it slightly rich up top and safe down low rather than lean under 5000 rpm and right on par up top.
Rather just do the tech thing on here through PM's if the phone isn't an option
If you spray it off the line you will definitely hit that lower rpm. I'd rather have it slightly rich up top and safe down low rather than lean under 5000 rpm and right on par up top.
But do as you wish. Remember you reading an average afr and on a dyno. My opinion ofcourse.
What's a good range? What starts getting too lean and what starts getting too rich? What's a normal change throughout a run?
I know that my air/fuel was hitting 13's in the mid range last time I was on the dyno and a sponsor on this site told me that I should have aborted the run when he saw the graph.
I've also seen other people post up graphs where the air/fuel jumps over 14 for a short time before dropping to normal and no one says anything about it.
How high is it safe to get with that initial spike?
I'm just trying to learn without blowing my stuff up, so any advice/knowledge I'm given is much appreciated!
I know that my air/fuel was hitting 13's in the mid range last time I was on the dyno and a sponsor on this site told me that I should have aborted the run when he saw the graph.
I've also seen other people post up graphs where the air/fuel jumps over 14 for a short time before dropping to normal and no one says anything about it.
How high is it safe to get with that initial spike?
I'm just trying to learn without blowing my stuff up, so any advice/knowledge I'm given is much appreciated!
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; Mar 24, 2010 at 05:18 PM.
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Nick at Harris helped me out a bunch.
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Verdad Gallardo What's a good range? What starts getting too lean and what starts getting too rich? What's a normal change throughout a run?
I know that my air/fuel was hitting 13's in the mid range last time I was on the dyno and a sponsor on this site told me that I should have aborted the run when he saw the graph.
I've also seen other people post up graphs where the air/fuel jumps over 14 for a short time before dropping to normal and no one says anything about it.
How high is it safe to get with that initial spike?
I'm just trying to learn without blowing my stuff up, so any advice/knowledge I'm given is much appreciated!
I know that my air/fuel was hitting 13's in the mid range last time I was on the dyno and a sponsor on this site told me that I should have aborted the run when he saw the graph.
I've also seen other people post up graphs where the air/fuel jumps over 14 for a short time before dropping to normal and no one says anything about it.
How high is it safe to get with that initial spike?
I'm just trying to learn without blowing my stuff up, so any advice/knowledge I'm given is much appreciated!
Your lean spikes may also be due to the nitrous getting there a lot quicker then the fuel at the hit, 900psi compared to 60 psi that 900 will get there before. so that could be something to think about as well.
Its hard to say what safe is really, but if hits 13's for a split second and comes down into the 12's then that is a heck of a lot better then 12's for a split second going down in the 10's. And then again we are trusting an AFR on a dyno which doesn't correctly demonstrate what the motor will be doing say on a wot blast through the gears or a track pass, there will be alot more heat with a 10-11 second pass compared to a 4-5 second dyno pull.
This is just my thinking and what I do/think. We dont tune on a dyno and we know where our baselines should be and go from there.
Ok rant over.
Any experience with the Innovate logworks program?, I have the XD-16 sitting in the trunk waiting for an install and have no idea what to expect from there program. Will this give me an accurate chart/log of my a/f or is it too basic. The XD-16 has datalogging capabilites with the software.
Any experience with the Innovate logworks program?, I have the XD-16 sitting in the trunk waiting for an install and have no idea what to expect from there program. Will this give me an accurate chart/log of my a/f or is it too basic. The XD-16 has datalogging capabilites with the software.
If a properly working system would drop from the 13's into the 12's then why would one that starts in the 12's drop into the 10's?
Is that initial lean spike that alot of people see safe to have or if not, is there a way to get rid of it? I figure, if it's due to the nitrous getting there first, then it's not RPM based and will happen at any RPM, like say a street pull that starts in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
Also, I know that some of people say that reading the plugs is better than an air/fuel meter. My question about that is, if the engine is running lean in the lower RPM, and then right on in the higher RPM and you do a full pass and then shut it down and check the plugs, will the fact that it was lean earlier show up on the plugs or no because the last thing the motor saw was the proper air/fuel before it was shut off?
Not trying to argue or give anyone a hard time, just asking serious questions that I have as I learn more about nitrous systems and how they work.
Is that initial lean spike that alot of people see safe to have or if not, is there a way to get rid of it? I figure, if it's due to the nitrous getting there first, then it's not RPM based and will happen at any RPM, like say a street pull that starts in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
Also, I know that some of people say that reading the plugs is better than an air/fuel meter. My question about that is, if the engine is running lean in the lower RPM, and then right on in the higher RPM and you do a full pass and then shut it down and check the plugs, will the fact that it was lean earlier show up on the plugs or no because the last thing the motor saw was the proper air/fuel before it was shut off?
Not trying to argue or give anyone a hard time, just asking serious questions that I have as I learn more about nitrous systems and how they work.
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; Mar 25, 2010 at 07:34 AM.
If a properly working system would drop from the 13's into the 12's then why would one that starts in the 12's drop into the 10's?
Is that initial lean spike that alot of people see safe to have or if not, is there a way to get rid of it? I figure, if it's due to the nitrous getting there first, then it's not RPM based and will happen at any RPM, like say a street pull that starts in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
Also, I know that some of people say that reading the plugs is better than an air/fuel meter. My question about that is, if the engine is running lean in the lower RPM, and then right on in the higher RPM and you do a full pass and then shut it down and check the plugs, will the fact that it was lean earlier show up on the plugs or no because the last thing the motor saw was the proper air/fuel before it was shut off?
Not trying to argue or give anyone a hard time, just asking serious questions that I have as I learn more about nitrous systems and how they work.
Is that initial lean spike that alot of people see safe to have or if not, is there a way to get rid of it? I figure, if it's due to the nitrous getting there first, then it's not RPM based and will happen at any RPM, like say a street pull that starts in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
Also, I know that some of people say that reading the plugs is better than an air/fuel meter. My question about that is, if the engine is running lean in the lower RPM, and then right on in the higher RPM and you do a full pass and then shut it down and check the plugs, will the fact that it was lean earlier show up on the plugs or no because the last thing the motor saw was the proper air/fuel before it was shut off?
Not trying to argue or give anyone a hard time, just asking serious questions that I have as I learn more about nitrous systems and how they work.
Nick
I wasn't referring to my car. camscam02 was talking to the people who said they had to run richer jets than listed and that's where the line of questions originated from. As for the initial lean spike, mine isn't a spike. I was referring to the graphs I've seen in general where they spike lean and then level out to a good range.
As for my specific car, I realize that there is an actual problem. I'm not saying what's causing the problem and I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with the kit. It was working fine for a year and then something happened, meaning that it's not a defect in the kit or anything like that.
I'll stop asking questions as I'm really not looking to cause problems or upset anyone.
As for my specific car, I realize that there is an actual problem. I'm not saying what's causing the problem and I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with the kit. It was working fine for a year and then something happened, meaning that it's not a defect in the kit or anything like that.
I'll stop asking questions as I'm really not looking to cause problems or upset anyone.
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; Mar 25, 2010 at 11:45 AM.
Just remember we are talking in general here, every case may be different and Im stating all cases as one. the fuel line as short as possible would help with the spike, purging the kit before hand to make sure there is fuel at the solenoid will help.
A little lean spike is not one id ever be worried about, it will happen for maybe a second and that will not hurt anything. Lean doesnt even hurt parts most of the time unless there is too much timing in the motor as well.
I think people are adding fuel because they think it is lean in spots and in fact they are making the right part rich. Sometimes it may be needed but most of the time from my experiences I would say no.
remember no question is a dumb question but if you keep questioning the answer then most will just say to the hell with it
A little lean spike is not one id ever be worried about, it will happen for maybe a second and that will not hurt anything. Lean doesnt even hurt parts most of the time unless there is too much timing in the motor as well.
I think people are adding fuel because they think it is lean in spots and in fact they are making the right part rich. Sometimes it may be needed but most of the time from my experiences I would say no.
remember no question is a dumb question but if you keep questioning the answer then most will just say to the hell with it
