hedge

iTrader: (17)

ok im running a zex wet kit for the ls1 with a 90mm n20 plate single stage.
~got the bottle heater with the gadget that kicks the heater on to maintain pressure consistantly.
~opted for the purge upgrade
~even got the bottle opener,
~only lookin to spray 75hp.
~i am goin to buy the fuel pressure shutdown in case it drops on me, maybe even a a/f shutdown for any rich or lean spikes.
~car has full boltons, cnc heads, converter 3600, 3:73 gears, cam all the good stuff anyway, put out 459hp at tire and only lookin to get it in the 6:90 range or so at track. car right now runs 7:41 in the 1/8 mile.
~this is a FULL WEIGHT car that gets driven alot during the nice weather and on the weekends at the track. it will see alot of stop and go traffic also
~should i run the protruded or non protruded tip plug, for this hp up to 100hp shot.
~should i run the tr6 or tr7plug, or you suggest something better. how often you think they will need changed.
~hot much timing should i pull. or give me an idea of a whereabouts it should be, think the car is around 24-25 at wot if im not mistaken.
~cant seem to find a controller that will pull the needed timing upon activation along with include all the neccesary window switches, or tps activation, and fuel safety shutdowns and such, every thing i find i have to buy two dif controllers for all this. one to pull timing and another to do window switch stuff.
~if i run the n20 brandplate i guess i need to run the jets from n20 in it, that being said what would those jet sizes be.
~one more thing this car always seems to run rich so should i back off on the fuel jet size a smidge to correct this or just go into hp tuners to fix it to keep it running the same at all times. sorry this is so long just want to keep everything safe and smart, even though it may cost me.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

I think you will need more than a 75 shot to get you where you want to be but I could be wrong.

I would use the non projected tip BR7EF. If the car is N/A tuned on them the drivability will be just fine.

Timing really depends on what power level you end up with. But for a 75 shot I would start at 4 degrees and you may be able to add one back in. Looking at the timing mark on the strap of the plug will tell you.

There is only one controller that has a windowswitch and timing controller in one and we have been waiting on them to come in for a while.

On my wifes 2010 I use our digital progressive controller and it has a built in windowswitch and tps activation, with the lingenfelter to remove timing. It all works great and I have all the adjustability over the system I could ask for.

The lingenfelter is the only timing device I will use. It plugs embetween the coil pack connectors and has one wire that wires to the system relay. It can remove up to 15 degrees of timing and it is the only unit on the market that has a refrence wire to varify its working. It also has a built in two step but I do not use that feature.

I would suggest going by our jetting to start tuning with. Zex, and NX jets will interchange into our system.

Dave

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

FPSS, is ok...it will cause fits if not dialed in right and if your system isn't up to snuff. That being said, obviously address any fueling system inefficiencies. A/F shutdown will actually catch some scenarios that a FPSS will not.

Since you've seen an increase in compression, tack on another heat range. Non projected tip would be ideal in your application.

If you're looking for a controller that is a window switch and timing pull, look at the timing tuner. Its a basic window switch, but if that's all you're looking for, it might be right up your alley. But like I said earlier, if it was me, I'd be running the MicroEDGE on it.

If you're running rich on a wet shot, address it via jet.

Nick

hedge

iTrader: (17)

with that being said about tack on another heat range are you saying go hotter or step colder, like tr6 to a tr7. and if i was going to spend my money on one or the other, i should go with the a/f safety first, then maybe the other.you think go with a simple timing puller and good activator like micro edge, not to just sell me parts but is there really any reason for what im running aka small shot to spend the money on the upgrade for the microedge other than knowin how much is left in the bottle, or does it have A BUILT IN a/f ration display...thanks

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Go colder on the plug. The BR7EF is what you need.

Nothing wrong with a airfuel cut off switch if used properly. If you plan to tie it into the factor 02 sensors dont waste your time and money. In order for a airfuel cut off switch to work accurately it needs to be tied into a wideband.
Dynotune has a nice airfuel cut off switch.

As far as removing timing I am not a fan of using the IAT sensor to do so. But if you are confortable doing it that way you can do it for the cost of a resistor by just doing a search on here..

Dave

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

Yes when I say tack on I mean go one more colder. I replied back to your pm.

One thing that I would like to point out is that if you use the interface to pull timing you can set it up to target 15 different timing tables so that you can have a multitude of various timing curves on hand. This way when you switch jetting around or need to pull some more from bad gas, all you need to do is flip a switch. And the ultimate advantage is that you can physically see the timing being pulled. Something that most other timing controllers or resistor mods can't do.

Nick