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Am I asking too much from my tuner?

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Old 04-12-2010, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by danger ds
that is excatly what i want to do, but my fear is what about the A/F ratio. Will pullling 4* save the motor if the A/F goes lean. I dont have a wideband in the car to check it.

Will my N/A A/F ratio do fine on a juiced car?
IMO motor breaks are more common on fat tunes. If your standalone's FP is good, Then stand on it..
Old 04-12-2010, 04:53 AM
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IMO..i would for sure buy a good wideband if you wanna spray, especially if your not taking timing out ETC. Cheap insurance.
Old 04-12-2010, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris05ssTruck
IMO..i would for sure buy a good wideband if you wanna spray, especially if your not taking timing out ETC. Cheap insurance.
the wideband is on the list of parts that keep plieing up. Its funny to think I started out being happy with just the kit and now its turned in to a standalolne and NANO

Originally Posted by 3fingas
IMO motor breaks are more common on fat tunes. If your standalone's FP is good, Then stand on it..
Ya I dont like the idea of being too rich just for safety reasons. There is a middle ground that you have to find and that is where I intend to be. Not all out raced tuned but not too concertive ether.
Old 04-12-2010, 10:33 AM
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I talking to a different tuner while I wait for my tuner to call back. Very anxious to hear what they have to say. Keep ya posted
Old 04-12-2010, 10:52 AM
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anybody that tells you to spray even a 100shot without pulling timing is being ignorant! You can always put the timing back in, read plugs and verify... Why chance it? Remember lean with less timing is a hell of alot better than rich with too much timing.
Old 04-12-2010, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1
anybody that tells you to spray even a 100shot without pulling timing is being ignorant! You can always put the timing back in, read plugs and verify... Why chance it? Remember lean with less timing is a hell of alot better than rich with too much timing.
You are absolutely right. If I can find a tuner to read the plugs I will buy a timing puller, start with 50 shot, pull 2*, race fuel in standalone, pull plugs, and work my way to 100 shot.

No word from eather tuner so I will try again tomarrow. In till then I be reading up on reading plugs.
Old 04-13-2010, 04:42 PM
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Just talked to my tuner and he said he would be glad to pull the plugs and have me read them. Bad news he is booked for 2 weeks straight. Which is ok by me, more time to become an expert on plug reading.

Last edited by danger ds; 04-13-2010 at 04:59 PM.
Old 04-13-2010, 04:46 PM
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I think everyone hit the nail on the head in here.

I'd pull newhere from 4-6* of timing and use the BR7Ef Plug.


It's not the most indepth arcticle on plug reading but it a good read
http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html
Old 04-14-2010, 02:15 PM
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... a small 100 shot doesnt need to have timing pulled.... its not near a large enough explosion as it would be with a 500" motor with 14:1 CR....

you can pretty well tune a 400hp car with a "100 shot" in the dark with mittens on...
as long as it runs clean N/A... sure check the plugs but keep the timing as long as you didnt have the car "over timed" to begin with
Old 04-14-2010, 02:19 PM
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remember a lower timing can make the plugs look fat or lean.... the more time it has to burn in the cylinder the leaner it will look...
Old 04-14-2010, 07:17 PM
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I will see what the mill likes. We will start with timing pulled and work our way down. Thanks to everybody for there well informed opinions, I defentaly feel more confident now then I did at the start of this thread.
Old 04-14-2010, 07:52 PM
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Glad to hear that you feel better about the situation & also glad to hear that your tuner wants to make you happy. He sounds like a professional to me now.
Old 04-15-2010, 02:25 PM
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Do not just jump into a 100 shot without timing pulled. Every engine reacts differently taking the time and working your way up will take less time than working to build a new motor. There are alot of variables when it comes to timing like chamber design, size, quench, fuel, spark plugs and gap. Always start small and work your way up and even more so that this is your first time. Plus it will help you to learn the plugs as you can see changes with every step. With the AFRs I like my N/A tunes about 12.8-.9 and my n20 to set about 12.6-.7 for a 100-150 shot. I don't like to add the fuel to compensate through the standalone though I just change my pe multiplier at wot to keep the fuel out of the intake.
Old 04-15-2010, 02:40 PM
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When all this goes down, get ready for some plug pics cause I plan on going through a couple of sets. The car is jeted for the 50 shot now and all tuning will be done on the dyno. I just wished he had a dynojet or a mustang dyno so I could get a better comparson. Once dialed in I will travel back to the dynojet where I got my H/C readings for the comparison. Stay tuned.
Old 05-20-2010, 06:43 PM
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Well long story short the plan stated above dident go as so. Here is the run down. #5 #7 was the lean cylinders, jeted it for the 100 shot 33F 52N, C16 in the standalone, went from 55psi to 30psi and car is still pig rich at 10.0 at end of run, and took out no timing.

Last edited by danger ds; 06-13-2010 at 02:49 PM.
Old 05-20-2010, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by danger ds
Well long story short the plan stated above dident go as so. Here is the run down. #5 #7 was the lean cylinders, jeted it for the 100 shot 33F 52N, C16 in the standalone, went from 55psi to 30psi and car is still pig rich at 10.0 at end of run, and took out no timing.

Well were gonna need the a/f graph to help ya. Did you have good bottle pressure on that run? what did the a/f start out at? might have a restriction of some sort
Old 05-20-2010, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
If the tune is good and the A/F is correct on the motor and correct on the gas, you do not need to pull any timing on a 100 shot. Been there done that. Get it right on the motor, use the fuel pressure on the standalone to dial it in on the gas. I've ran a 150 shot for 4 years and never pulled any timing or lost a motor due to timing.
phil this is dead wrong... if its tuned correct on motor no way the nitrous uses the exact same timming.
Old 05-20-2010, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001z
Well were gonna need the a/f graph to help ya. Did you have good bottle pressure on that run? what did the a/f start out at? might have a restriction of some sort
A/F started at 9.0 and finished at 10.0,
I have a NANO which is reg. at 1000psi
Sorry no A/F graph
Old 05-20-2010, 07:20 PM
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52 33 is dead rich, try like a 28 at 60psi and then adjust
Old 05-29-2010, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by choopak
your tuner is a idiot..
this.^^^


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