Ready to hook this system up....need help!
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 411
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From: Webb City,MO
Ready to hook this system up....need help! I have had this Nitrous system since the day I bought the car. The problem is even though its already mounted in the car and the lines seem to be ran...I dont know how to finish the hookup. There is only one line that goes to a purple nozzel in the engine bay that is unhooked. Everything else seems to be connected and ran through a metal purple ZEX box also in the engine bay. The psi gauge on the bottle shoots to 700psi when I open the bottle and there is also a bottle warmer wrapped around the entire bottle. *Purple attachment at end of braided line*
There is a black NX threaded bung inserted into the driver side of the air lid so I am assuming its where the only unconnected braided line with the purple attachment at the end should go...Problem is there is no jet on the purple attachment and the line is too short to reach the threaded entry point on the air lid? Where is the jet supposed to go? When I follow this braided line it feeds back to the purple ZEX box and reads NOZZEL. *I removed lid to get close enough to purple attachment but the attachment is to large to go inside the threaded NX bung*
Back at the bottle, the warmer has one line that is white in color coming from under the warmer itself but simply runs through a connector and loops back around to exactly where it comes out of. How would it get power? How is it activated? Is it even needed this time of year? (Brand is Dynotune)
And finally, my most important question of all.....how the heck is this system activated. I crawled down to the gas peddal to see if there was some kind of wide open throttle button or wire or anything....but nothing is there. There are no activation switches of anykind in the car. I did however find....extending off a plug, on the driver's side of the throttle body, a plastic connector spliced into one of the wires. This connector has a thin black line that runs across the engine bay all the way to the backside of the purple ZEX box. Could this be a WOT setup?
Thanks for taking the time to read and hopefully you guys can help. I usally have pretty good advice on here and hope this gets everything taken care of. I would love to hear that I just have to make a connection or two and head to the track. Thanks guys. Working on pics now...
There is a black NX threaded bung inserted into the driver side of the air lid so I am assuming its where the only unconnected braided line with the purple attachment at the end should go...Problem is there is no jet on the purple attachment and the line is too short to reach the threaded entry point on the air lid? Where is the jet supposed to go? When I follow this braided line it feeds back to the purple ZEX box and reads NOZZEL. *I removed lid to get close enough to purple attachment but the attachment is to large to go inside the threaded NX bung*
Back at the bottle, the warmer has one line that is white in color coming from under the warmer itself but simply runs through a connector and loops back around to exactly where it comes out of. How would it get power? How is it activated? Is it even needed this time of year? (Brand is Dynotune)
And finally, my most important question of all.....how the heck is this system activated. I crawled down to the gas peddal to see if there was some kind of wide open throttle button or wire or anything....but nothing is there. There are no activation switches of anykind in the car. I did however find....extending off a plug, on the driver's side of the throttle body, a plastic connector spliced into one of the wires. This connector has a thin black line that runs across the engine bay all the way to the backside of the purple ZEX box. Could this be a WOT setup?
Thanks for taking the time to read and hopefully you guys can help. I usally have pretty good advice on here and hope this gets everything taken care of. I would love to hear that I just have to make a connection or two and head to the track. Thanks guys. Working on pics now...
Last edited by drewwrxrogers; Apr 16, 2010 at 11:02 AM.
Well the bottle heater is a power and ground type set up. Unplug the two, and ground one side. The power side- run up the driver compartment so you can switch it on with out getting out of your seat. Some system use thermistors that get sandwiched in between the heater and the bottle or a different system that uses a pressure switch that is mounted on the bottle valve. Optima pressure is around 950-1000psi so if your is 700 it is low.
The best way to eliminate all the wiring. GET A NANO BOTTLE Far better than any heater out there. Yes they will fit in the spare tire well.
The best way to eliminate all the wiring. GET A NANO BOTTLE Far better than any heater out there. Yes they will fit in the spare tire well.
The simplest step would be to take a picture of your engine bay with all of the components that you're trying to describe. That way we can tell you what goes where.
The zex box will have a TPS switch built in, which is why you're seeing a splice in a wire by the throttle body...lets just hope they tapped into the correct one. You'll need to verify this and set your TPS value by programming the box. Simple to do but lets tackle getting everything hooked up first.
As far as the wiring for the heater, you're going to have to trace it back. There should be a relay somewhere along the line and if you tell us which wires are going to what pin on the relay, we can help get it figured out.
nick
The zex box will have a TPS switch built in, which is why you're seeing a splice in a wire by the throttle body...lets just hope they tapped into the correct one. You'll need to verify this and set your TPS value by programming the box. Simple to do but lets tackle getting everything hooked up first.
As far as the wiring for the heater, you're going to have to trace it back. There should be a relay somewhere along the line and if you tell us which wires are going to what pin on the relay, we can help get it figured out.
nick
I have had this Nitrous system since the day I bought the car. The problem is even though its already mounted in the car and the lines seem to be ran...I dont know how to finish the hookup. There is only one line that goes to a purple nozzel in the engine bay that is unhooked. Everything else seems to be connected and ran through a metal purple ZEX box also in the engine bay. The psi gauge on the bottle shoots to 700psi when I open the bottle and there is also a bottle warmer wrapped around the entire bottle.
There is a black NX threaded bung inserted into the driver side of the air lid so I am assuming its where the only unconnected braided line with the purple attachment at the end should go...Problem is there is no jet on the purple attachment and the line is too short to reach the threaded entry point on the air lid? Where is the jet supposed to go? When I follow this braided line it feeds back to the purple ZEX box and reads NOZZEL. *I removed lid to get close enough to purple attachment but the attachment is to large to go inside the threaded NX bung*
Back at the bottle, the warmer has one line that is white in color coming from under the warmer itself but simply runs through a connector and loops back around to exactly where it comes out of. How would it get power? How is it activated? Is it even needed this time of year? (Brand is Dynotune)
And finally, my most important question of all.....how the heck is this system activated. I crawled down to the gas peddal to see if there was some kind of wide open throttle button or wire or anything....but nothing is there. There are no activation switches of anykind in the car. I did however find....extending off a plug, on the driver's side of the throttle body, a plastic connector spliced into one of the wires. This connector has a thin black line that runs across the engine bay all the way to the backside of the purple ZEX box. Could this be a WOT setup?
Thanks for taking the time to read and hopefully you guys can help. I usally have pretty good advice on here and hope this gets everything taken care of. I would love to hear that I just have to make a connection or two and head to the track. Thanks guys. Working on pics now...
There is a black NX threaded bung inserted into the driver side of the air lid so I am assuming its where the only unconnected braided line with the purple attachment at the end should go...Problem is there is no jet on the purple attachment and the line is too short to reach the threaded entry point on the air lid? Where is the jet supposed to go? When I follow this braided line it feeds back to the purple ZEX box and reads NOZZEL. *I removed lid to get close enough to purple attachment but the attachment is to large to go inside the threaded NX bung*
Back at the bottle, the warmer has one line that is white in color coming from under the warmer itself but simply runs through a connector and loops back around to exactly where it comes out of. How would it get power? How is it activated? Is it even needed this time of year? (Brand is Dynotune)
And finally, my most important question of all.....how the heck is this system activated. I crawled down to the gas peddal to see if there was some kind of wide open throttle button or wire or anything....but nothing is there. There are no activation switches of anykind in the car. I did however find....extending off a plug, on the driver's side of the throttle body, a plastic connector spliced into one of the wires. This connector has a thin black line that runs across the engine bay all the way to the backside of the purple ZEX box. Could this be a WOT setup?
Thanks for taking the time to read and hopefully you guys can help. I usally have pretty good advice on here and hope this gets everything taken care of. I would love to hear that I just have to make a connection or two and head to the track. Thanks guys. Working on pics now...
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Webb City,MO
OK great! So I just need a simple activation switch for the bottle warmer to be complete? Unhook the two connected wires, ones a ground and the other runs to the switch?...
What about the activation for the actual bottle? I just got the pics up of the connector spliced into the wires leading to the TB. Thats the only clue I have.
Also the purple nozzle at the end of the braided line seems to be stripped, but I have no idea what I need to make it work or even where it goes? It doesnt connect to the nx bung on the lid...If it doesnt go there whats it even there for?
What about the activation for the actual bottle? I just got the pics up of the connector spliced into the wires leading to the TB. Thats the only clue I have.
Also the purple nozzle at the end of the braided line seems to be stripped, but I have no idea what I need to make it work or even where it goes? It doesnt connect to the nx bung on the lid...If it doesnt go there whats it even there for?
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Webb City,MO
The simplest step would be to take a picture of your engine bay with all of the components that you're trying to describe. That way we can tell you what goes where.
The zex box will have a TPS switch built in, which is why you're seeing a splice in a wire by the throttle body...lets just hope they tapped into the correct one. You'll need to verify this and set your TPS value by programming the box. Simple to do but lets tackle getting everything hooked up first.
As far as the wiring for the heater, you're going to have to trace it back. There should be a relay somewhere along the line and if you tell us which wires are going to what pin on the relay, we can help get it figured out.
nick
The zex box will have a TPS switch built in, which is why you're seeing a splice in a wire by the throttle body...lets just hope they tapped into the correct one. You'll need to verify this and set your TPS value by programming the box. Simple to do but lets tackle getting everything hooked up first.
As far as the wiring for the heater, you're going to have to trace it back. There should be a relay somewhere along the line and if you tell us which wires are going to what pin on the relay, we can help get it figured out.
nick
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Webb City,MO
Ok so I am good as far as having what I need it sounds like. TPS. Now on the back of the Zex box there is a round switch that can be pushed in with a white light bulb under it. Directly next to the button, there is an entry hole for 3 wires, 1 is the line going to the splice by the TB and one is the ground, not sure on the third. Hope this helps. I can take a pic if needed.
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Alright, well it looks like the previous owner might have hacked up a few things. The NX nozzle in your air lid looks to be replacing the purple zex nozzle that is all buggered up. Remove the purple nozzle from the end of the hose...you should find a jet hiding in there...this is where jets go (between hose and nozzle). Throw away the purple nozzle. I would also get a nozzle retaining nut for the NX nozzle that is in the lid now. This will help secure it to the lid better than what it is now. The last thing you want is that nozzle popping out while its spraying. If the hose doesn't reach, you can get a new one that is longer or you can add a splice into the main feed line going into the box and move your box closer to the nozzle.
In order to get the heater to work properly and safely, I would suggest running a inline fuse, a properly rated relay, arming switch, and a pressure switch. This way you're not over loading any circuits or wires. This is very important!! Well unless you want to be the guy that lights his carpet on fire or over pressurizes his bottle because he didn't have a pressure switch.
Yes you will be using the switch on the zex box to program the TPS. Jump over to their site and follow their instructions for doing so.
A few other things that you'll want to look into...make sure you bottle orientation is correct. Meaning that the dip tube is siphoning liquid from the bottom of the bottle. Make sure your bottle is full. I can't see from the picture what wire your TPS switch is hooked up to, so verify that it is correct prior to programming the box. Make sure you're running the correct jet size for the shot you want. Make sure your a/f is dialed in with the nozzle mounted there. Make sure your plugs are the correct heat range (stock plugs will not work regardless of shot size) and lastly make sure your fueling and timing needs are met while spraying. There are also the essential safety items you might want to look into as well. Such as a RPM window switch, filter, blowdown etc.
Nick
In order to get the heater to work properly and safely, I would suggest running a inline fuse, a properly rated relay, arming switch, and a pressure switch. This way you're not over loading any circuits or wires. This is very important!! Well unless you want to be the guy that lights his carpet on fire or over pressurizes his bottle because he didn't have a pressure switch.
Yes you will be using the switch on the zex box to program the TPS. Jump over to their site and follow their instructions for doing so.
A few other things that you'll want to look into...make sure you bottle orientation is correct. Meaning that the dip tube is siphoning liquid from the bottom of the bottle. Make sure your bottle is full. I can't see from the picture what wire your TPS switch is hooked up to, so verify that it is correct prior to programming the box. Make sure you're running the correct jet size for the shot you want. Make sure your a/f is dialed in with the nozzle mounted there. Make sure your plugs are the correct heat range (stock plugs will not work regardless of shot size) and lastly make sure your fueling and timing needs are met while spraying. There are also the essential safety items you might want to look into as well. Such as a RPM window switch, filter, blowdown etc.
Nick
I have had this Nitrous system since the day I bought the car. The problem is even though its already mounted in the car and the lines seem to be ran...I dont know how to finish the hookup. There is only one line that goes to a purple nozzel in the engine bay that is unhooked. Everything else seems to be connected and ran through a metal purple ZEX box also in the engine bay. The psi gauge on the bottle shoots to 700psi when I open the bottle and there is also a bottle warmer wrapped around the entire bottle. *Purple attachment at end of braided line*
There is a black NX threaded bung inserted into the driver side of the air lid so I am assuming its where the only unconnected braided line with the purple attachment at the end should go...Problem is there is no jet on the purple attachment and the line is too short to reach the threaded entry point on the air lid? Where is the jet supposed to go? When I follow this braided line it feeds back to the purple ZEX box and reads NOZZEL. *I removed lid to get close enough to purple attachment but the attachment is to large to go inside the threaded NX bung*
Back at the bottle, the warmer has one line that is white in color coming from under the warmer itself but simply runs through a connector and loops back around to exactly where it comes out of. How would it get power? How is it activated? Is it even needed this time of year? (Brand is Dynotune)
And finally, my most important question of all.....how the heck is this system activated. I crawled down to the gas peddal to see if there was some kind of wide open throttle button or wire or anything....but nothing is there. There are no activation switches of anykind in the car. I did however find....extending off a plug, on the driver's side of the throttle body, a plastic connector spliced into one of the wires. This connector has a thin black line that runs across the engine bay all the way to the backside of the purple ZEX box. Could this be a WOT setup?
Thanks for taking the time to read and hopefully you guys can help. I usally have pretty good advice on here and hope this gets everything taken care of. I would love to hear that I just have to make a connection or two and head to the track. Thanks guys. Working on pics now...
There is a black NX threaded bung inserted into the driver side of the air lid so I am assuming its where the only unconnected braided line with the purple attachment at the end should go...Problem is there is no jet on the purple attachment and the line is too short to reach the threaded entry point on the air lid? Where is the jet supposed to go? When I follow this braided line it feeds back to the purple ZEX box and reads NOZZEL. *I removed lid to get close enough to purple attachment but the attachment is to large to go inside the threaded NX bung*
Back at the bottle, the warmer has one line that is white in color coming from under the warmer itself but simply runs through a connector and loops back around to exactly where it comes out of. How would it get power? How is it activated? Is it even needed this time of year? (Brand is Dynotune)
And finally, my most important question of all.....how the heck is this system activated. I crawled down to the gas peddal to see if there was some kind of wide open throttle button or wire or anything....but nothing is there. There are no activation switches of anykind in the car. I did however find....extending off a plug, on the driver's side of the throttle body, a plastic connector spliced into one of the wires. This connector has a thin black line that runs across the engine bay all the way to the backside of the purple ZEX box. Could this be a WOT setup?
Thanks for taking the time to read and hopefully you guys can help. I usally have pretty good advice on here and hope this gets everything taken care of. I would love to hear that I just have to make a connection or two and head to the track. Thanks guys. Working on pics now...
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Like Nick said...there should be a bung that the NX Nozzle threads into, IMHO threading into the plastic is not a good idea...
While you can not really see it that well in the pic below, the nozzle threads into a Bung.
Also, the Marked "NX" is the direction the the nozzle will spray, so when its set up, have the "NX" facing the MAF.
While you can not really see it that well in the pic below, the nozzle threads into a Bung.
Also, the Marked "NX" is the direction the the nozzle will spray, so when its set up, have the "NX" facing the MAF.
Last edited by Beer99C5; Apr 16, 2010 at 01:16 PM.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Webb City,MO
Alright, well it looks like the previous owner might have hacked up a few things. The NX nozzle in your air lid looks to be replacing the purple zex nozzle that is all buggered up. Remove the purple nozzle from the end of the hose...you should find a jet hiding in there...this is where jets go (between hose and nozzle). Throw away the purple nozzle. I would also get a nozzle retaining nut for the NX nozzle that is in the lid now. This will help secure it to the lid better than what it is now. The last thing you want is that nozzle popping out while its spraying. If the hose doesn't reach, you can get a new one that is longer or you can add a splice into the main feed line going into the box and move your box closer to the nozzle.
In order to get the heater to work properly and safely, I would suggest running a inline fuse, a properly rated relay, arming switch, and a pressure switch. This way you're not over loading any circuits or wires. This is very important!! Well unless you want to be the guy that lights his carpet on fire or over pressurizes his bottle because he didn't have a pressure switch.
Yes you will be using the switch on the zex box to program the TPS. Jump over to their site and follow their instructions for doing so.
A few other things that you'll want to look into...make sure you bottle orientation is correct. Meaning that the dip tube is siphoning liquid from the bottom of the bottle. Make sure your bottle is full. I can't see from the picture what wire your TPS switch is hooked up to, so verify that it is correct prior to programming the box. Make sure you're running the correct jet size for the shot you want. Make sure your a/f is dialed in with the nozzle mounted there. Make sure your plugs are the correct heat range (stock plugs will not work regardless of shot size) and lastly make sure your fueling and timing needs are met while spraying. There are also the essential safety items you might want to look into as well. Such as a RPM window switch, filter, blowdown etc.
Nick
In order to get the heater to work properly and safely, I would suggest running a inline fuse, a properly rated relay, arming switch, and a pressure switch. This way you're not over loading any circuits or wires. This is very important!! Well unless you want to be the guy that lights his carpet on fire or over pressurizes his bottle because he didn't have a pressure switch.
Yes you will be using the switch on the zex box to program the TPS. Jump over to their site and follow their instructions for doing so.
A few other things that you'll want to look into...make sure you bottle orientation is correct. Meaning that the dip tube is siphoning liquid from the bottom of the bottle. Make sure your bottle is full. I can't see from the picture what wire your TPS switch is hooked up to, so verify that it is correct prior to programming the box. Make sure you're running the correct jet size for the shot you want. Make sure your a/f is dialed in with the nozzle mounted there. Make sure your plugs are the correct heat range (stock plugs will not work regardless of shot size) and lastly make sure your fueling and timing needs are met while spraying. There are also the essential safety items you might want to look into as well. Such as a RPM window switch, filter, blowdown etc.
Nick
