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Nitrous problems today during dyno tune

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Old 04-18-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RsSean
I would shorten your Fuel line after the fuel noid. It appears from the picture that it is longer than the nitrous one. That can cause a lean spike.
to be honest with u i dont think that will make a difference... u have to remember nitrous should be at 950 to 1000 psi when it first hits.. ur fuel pressure is know where near that pressure there fore even if u shorten the fuel line its still gunna have a lean spike... the lean spike is normal!!
Old 04-18-2010, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rice4eatingnotdrivin
to be honest with u i dont think that will make a difference... u have to remember nitrous should be at 950 to 1000 psi when it first hits.. ur fuel pressure is know where near that pressure there fore even if u shorten the fuel line its still gunna have a lean spike... the lean spike is normal!!
the lean spike may be normal, but its not GOOD. I want to have NO lean spike.

if I cant get rid of that lean spike, the nitrous kit will be long gone.
Old 04-18-2010, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
the lean spike may be normal, but its not GOOD. I want to have NO lean spike.

if I cant get rid of that lean spike, the nitrous kit will be long gone.

First get a new fuel noid... hitting **** with hammers aint cool. LOL

2nd the lean spike happens while the converter is flashing and will not hurt anything. Shorten the fuel line up or get a longer N20 line to help if your that worried but trust me it wont hurt it.
Old 04-18-2010, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rice4eatingnotdrivin
to be honest with u i dont think that will make a difference... u have to remember nitrous should be at 950 to 1000 psi when it first hits.. ur fuel pressure is know where near that pressure there fore even if u shorten the fuel line its still gunna have a lean spike... the lean spike is normal!!


+1

To even get it adjusted through lines, you would need to extend the n20 line extremely long.

As for the microedge, that is your best bet. I think you would need to use another relay and wire it up like it was another stage nitrous, except directly to the fuel solenoid. It will activate your fuel solenoid however many miliseconds you adjust it to, prior to your nitrous. This will get rid of your lean spike. That is why the microedge is amazing, it has a function for this sole purpose.
Old 04-18-2010, 06:43 PM
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a walbro with a hot wire kit should be more than enough fuel for what you are doing. i think this would eliminate your spike completely, and be good enough to go well past a 150 shot no problem....if you ever wanted.
Old 04-18-2010, 07:18 PM
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I would not be tuning your car on dyno with the nitrious thats not a good idea.You really have to pull plugs to see whats going and not rely on air fuel meter.Dyno's and nitrious eat motors just test on the street and pull a plug after the run.Like others said shorten your fuel line should help.
Old 04-18-2010, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
First get a new fuel noid... hitting **** with hammers aint cool. LOL

2nd the lean spike happens while the converter is flashing and will not hurt anything. Shorten the fuel line up or get a longer N20 line to help if your that worried but trust me it wont hurt it.
I have a converter? news to me!

im sorry, but I dont agree with you that a lean spike wont hurt anything...im sure one too many "lean spikes" will do more then enough to take its toll on something....its not good either way and I want it Gone.

Last edited by kidcamaro98; 04-18-2010 at 07:49 PM.
Old 04-18-2010, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by INTENESS
I would not be tuning your car on dyno with the nitrious thats not a good idea.You really have to pull plugs to see whats going and not rely on air fuel meter.Dyno's and nitrious eat motors just test on the street and pull a plug after the run.Like others said shorten your fuel line should help.
we had extra plugs and that was the plan. We were doing a nitrous pull, pull a plug and dial it in...but we had the solonoid issue and that took a few hours and after that I called it quits so we didnt have a single clear nitrous pull on the dyno to pull any plugs by.
Old 04-18-2010, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BakaN20
+1

To even get it adjusted through lines, you would need to extend the n20 line extremely long.

As for the microedge, that is your best bet. I think you would need to use another relay and wire it up like it was another stage nitrous, except directly to the fuel solenoid. It will activate your fuel solenoid however many miliseconds you adjust it to, prior to your nitrous. This will get rid of your lean spike. That is why the microedge is amazing, it has a function for this sole purpose.
this is what im going to do. This sounds like the best solution for my problem along with shorter fuel lines.
Old 04-18-2010, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
I have a converter? news to me!

im sorry, but I dont agree with you that a lean spike wont hurt anything...im sure one too many "lean spikes" will do more then enough to take its toll on something....its not good either way and I want it Gone.
My bad I thought you had an auto.

Your SO worried about a lean spike but your hitting your ******* noids with a hammer and then putting them back on the car to make a pull? What happens when it sticks open and backfires blowing your intake off and burning your car to the ground? Lean spike doesnt sound so bad now huh?
Take your A/F sensor and throw it in the trash ..... just read the plugs and then tell me if it has a lean spike. You just cant help some people... but since your so smart figure it out on your own or take it off your car noone really cares.

BTW.. Dynos dont hurt nitrous motors stupid people hurt them.
Tune all you want on the dyno and think your "safe".
Old 04-18-2010, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
I have a converter? news to me!

im sorry, but I dont agree with you that a lean spike wont hurt anything...im sure one too many "lean spikes" will do more then enough to take its toll on something....its not good either way and I want it Gone.
I bet it wont! it is a tad lean for .5 second maybe at most with very little heat in the motor. It wont do a thing. Shorten the fuel line and dont mess with the electronics and leave it alone.

Just my opinion ofcourse
Old 04-18-2010, 08:23 PM
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The lean spike your having isnt going to hurt anything,and like camscam said dont use the electronics keep it simple.
Old 04-18-2010, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
My bad I thought you had an auto.

Your SO worried about a lean spike but your hitting your ******* noids with a hammer and then putting them back on the car to make a pull? What happens when it sticks open and backfires blowing your intake off and burning your car to the ground? Lean spike doesnt sound so bad now huh?
Take your A/F sensor and throw it in the trash ..... just read the plugs and then tell me if it has a lean spike. You just cant help some people... but since your so smart figure it out on your own or take it off your car noone really cares.

BTW.. Dynos dont hurt nitrous motors stupid people hurt them.
Tune all you want on the dyno and think your "safe".
Um the nitrous outlet told me directly to tap the bottom of a solonoid if its stuck. This would cure the problem and guess what??? i did this to the fuel solonoid that was stuck shut and holy ****, it worked! im pretty sure a fuel solonoid sticking wont blow the intake off the damn car last time I checked. Nitrous solonoid was working correctly...
Old 04-18-2010, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by camscam02
I bet it wont! it is a tad lean for .5 second maybe at most with very little heat in the motor. It wont do a thing. Shorten the fuel line and dont mess with the electronics and leave it alone.

Just my opinion ofcourse
ok man thanks for your input. This is what I will do. Im just a little paranoid seeing as its a new motor.
Old 04-18-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
Um the nitrous outlet told me directly to tap the bottom of a solonoid if its stuck. This would cure the problem and guess what??? i did this to the fuel solonoid that was stuck shut and holy ****, it worked! im pretty sure a fuel solonoid sticking wont blow the intake off the damn car last time I checked. Nitrous solonoid was working correctly...
Man, you can't be serious.
Old 04-18-2010, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by shortdog
Man, you can't be serious.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...help-asap.html
Old 04-18-2010, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
Um the nitrous outlet told me directly to tap the bottom of a solonoid if its stuck. This would cure the problem and guess what??? i did this to the fuel solonoid that was stuck shut and holy ****, it worked! im pretty sure a fuel solonoid sticking wont blow the intake off the damn car last time I checked. Nitrous solonoid was working correctly...
You are clueless.

Good luck with your dyno queen.
Old 04-19-2010, 01:18 AM
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that is for a solenoid that won't seal (stuck open). they were suggesting to force the piston to re-seat itself, you could hit it with a hammer.

how long does the lean condition last?

now don't you wish you had gone the turbo route again? you wouldn't be messing with finicky solenoids.
Old 04-19-2010, 02:37 AM
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+1 new fuel pump cheap and easy insurance.

by upping the fuel jet itself your gonna fix the lean at the initial hit but go rich in the RPMs your gonna be using it which isnt a bad bad thing but your losing power, but i cant be sure about that unless we see a dyno graph. If its lean from 4-5k then richens up thats not good, if its lean for 500 rpm its not so bad.
Old 04-19-2010, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BobDoLe
that is for a solenoid that won't seal (stuck open). they were suggesting to force the piston to re-seat itself, you could hit it with a hammer.

how long does the lean condition last?

now don't you wish you had gone the turbo route again? you wouldn't be messing with finicky solenoids.
actually yes lol

I was thinking about selling the n20 kit and going the procharger route, but the only thing that is stopping me in my ms3 cam...car makes great power n/a but im not sure how it would work being blown with the ms3 and Im not going to change the cam....

I dont have the dyno sheet but im trying to find out how long that lean condition lasted....my tuner said that on the 100 shot it ended up with a 12.2 afr after the lean spike and held to the window shut off (6400)


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