Hooking up switch panel...question with wiring.
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Hooking up switch panel...question with wiring.
I looked on the sticky and found a pic on the first page of a switch panel where they Y'ed the switches together instead of wiring each one independently. I can see where they are Y'ed together for both the ACC power and the ground, but I cant find where they put the keyed 12v source. My real question is if I run jumpers(Y together)the switches, will one switch work without the other being on since they are wired together instead of independently, or will I have to arm the nitrous just to turn on the bottle heater?
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No, the 12v source just provides a constant flow of power (when the ignition is on). Splicing two switches from the same source will still allow each switch to work independently of the other. But you may want to use a Constant power source for you heater, instead of an iginition power source, so that you can run you heater with the car off. That is how i have mine, but you have to watch it, 1. Dont let it get too hot 2. it will drain your battery as much as leaving the headlights on.
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I just followed the instructions for the heater. That would be cool, I just would probably forget about it. I wired my switches a little different. I jumped a wire from the heater switch to the arming switch, then to a ground. Then the same thing again but for a keyed 12v source. But each one has its own ACC power. The switch panel in the above pic has a hot wire, a ground, and a purge wire. But I'm not seeing anything for keyed 12v power or a wire for ACC power from the bottle heater. How does this work? Sorry if this is to confusing, or if I'm not explaining this correct.
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In the pic, the left switch has the main power source, then the right switch is "jumped" off of it, then the purge button is "jumped" again off the right switch. and Same with the blue wire (which would be the ground), between the left and right switches. the middle prong on each switch would go the whatever that switch is powering. The power source wire, can come from a constant 12v source OR an ignition/ACC source. Not sure I understand you.... why do you need Two power sources for each switch???
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In the pic, the left switch has the main power source, then the right switch is "jumped" off of it, then the purge button is "jumped" again off the right switch. and Same with the blue wire (which would be the ground), between the left and right switches. the middle prong on each switch would go the whatever that switch is powering. The power source wire, can come from a constant 12v source OR an ignition/ACC source. Not sure I understand you.... why do you need Two power sources for each switch???
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I looked on the sticky and found a pic on the first page of a switch panel where they Y'ed the switches together instead of wiring each one independently. I can see where they are Y'ed together for both the ACC power and the ground, but I cant find where they put the keyed 12v source. My real question is if I run jumpers(Y together)the switches, will one switch work without the other being on since they are wired together instead of independently, or will I have to arm the nitrous just to turn on the bottle heater?
Nick
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Here's a better pic...on a better panel...I still have that one in the first thread
The middle lug on each individual switch is what goes directly to the accessory you want to run.
The red is of course your Hot "Switched" Source, and Black is your ground. Most of the switches are low amp control power providing your using relays for the heater and the noids.
The middle lug on each individual switch is what goes directly to the accessory you want to run.
The red is of course your Hot "Switched" Source, and Black is your ground. Most of the switches are low amp control power providing your using relays for the heater and the noids.
Last edited by Beer99C5; 05-17-2010 at 08:48 PM.
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Here's a better pic...on a better panel...I still have that one in the first thread
The middle lug on each individual switch is what goes directly to the accessory you want to run.
The red is of course your Hot "Switched" Source, and Black is your ground. Most of the switches are low amp control power providing your using relays for the heater and the noids.
The middle lug on each individual switch is what goes directly to the accessory you want to run.
The red is of course your Hot "Switched" Source, and Black is your ground. Most of the switches are low amp control power providing your using relays for the heater and the noids.
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You will be able to use any switch independently of the others. The purge switch being two prong just have the hot wire going to it, and the the other going to the purge Noid, it will get its ground from the other noid wire (unless you use a relay for the purge then it goes to the relay). You will be able to purge independently as well. Think of it just like your house outlets, even though a bunch dont have anything plugged into it, you can use the one in the other room independently of the others .