MicroEdge and LNC-002
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MicroEdge and LNC-002 I've come up with this wiring solution for using the MicroEdge along with the LNC-002. I'm getting ready to install a bunch of stuff, including the MicroEdge and LNC-002, I'm just waiting for Beer to get back to make me a switch panel. I was hoping to get this wiring double checked before I got to installing.
The LNC-002 should activate the secondary rev limiter when the switch is on and the clutch is pressed.
The LNC-002 should activate the ignition retard only when the MicroEdge activates the nitrous.
The nitrous should only be activated when the clutch is not pressed and the MicroEdge activates it.
I believe this should allow for full throttle shifts without spraying through the shifts.
Let me know what you guys think, this is the first time I've done this kind of thing.
The LNC-002 should activate the secondary rev limiter when the switch is on and the clutch is pressed.
The LNC-002 should activate the ignition retard only when the MicroEdge activates the nitrous.
The nitrous should only be activated when the clutch is not pressed and the MicroEdge activates it.
I believe this should allow for full throttle shifts without spraying through the shifts.
Let me know what you guys think, this is the first time I've done this kind of thing.
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I see the tan microedge wire going to the FPSS than to #86 on relay . I thought it goes to #85 on relay. But than I'm not sure as you do have it set up for different functions.
I'm pretty sure that it doesn't matter the polarity on the 86 and 85 pins. As long as one has positive and the other has negative polarity going to it the relay will react. The MicroEdge uses a negative signal to activate the nitrous system. I have the MicroEdge's negative signal going through the fuel pressure switch then on to pin 86 of the second relay. The positive charge for pin 85 comes from the first relay when that relay isn't charged. The CPP switch is closed when the clutch pedal is pressed so when the clutch pedal isn't pressed power is flowing to pin 87a. With that said, pin 87a of the first relay supplies power to pin 85 of the second relay only when the clutch pedal isn't pressed.
I'm pretty sure that it doesn't matter the polarity on the 86 and 85 pins. As long as one has positive and the other has negative polarity going to it the relay will react. The MicroEdge uses a negative signal to activate the nitrous system. I have the MicroEdge's negative signal going through the fuel pressure switch then on to pin 86 of the second relay. The positive charge for pin 85 comes from the first relay when that relay isn't charged. The CPP switch is closed when the clutch pedal is pressed so when the clutch pedal isn't pressed power is flowing to pin 87a. With that said, pin 87a of the first relay supplies power to pin 85 of the second relay only when the clutch pedal isn't pressed.
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Yeah, I'm only hooking up one stage too. I've only got a stock internal LS1 for the summer so I don't need a second stage. Then next summer I'll have my twin turbo setup on and I'll only be using nitrous for that little extra boost of speed! 
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I personally haven't tried it out. I've been very busy with work and just today the engine in the airplane quit shortly after takeoff.
I believe that choopak is using my schematic. Check out this thread.
I believe that choopak is using my schematic. Check out this thread.
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I've updated the wiring schematic.
The previous schematic will work fine but since I'm about to install my setup I wanted to update a few things. The new schematic will provide easier CPP wiring with only one wire that needs to be hooked up and is located under the hood. A 2-Step switch light that's constantly on, allowing you to know when the 2-Step is on standby and ready to be activated by the clutch. Last, but not least, Nitrous system will not be effected at all by the clutch unless the 2-Step is activated so the nitrous system will act like all other nitrous systems that aren't wired to the CPP.
Here's the new schematic.
The previous schematic will work fine but since I'm about to install my setup I wanted to update a few things. The new schematic will provide easier CPP wiring with only one wire that needs to be hooked up and is located under the hood. A 2-Step switch light that's constantly on, allowing you to know when the 2-Step is on standby and ready to be activated by the clutch. Last, but not least, Nitrous system will not be effected at all by the clutch unless the 2-Step is activated so the nitrous system will act like all other nitrous systems that aren't wired to the CPP.
Here's the new schematic.
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bump from the dead! need info on wiring up these two using the timing retard and window switch/wot switch. 2 step is not going to be used. if there is a schematic i have missed just point me in the right direction. thanks
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From: Willows, California
Thread Starter
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From: Willows, California
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Ok, here's your diagram.
Everything is basically the same except the placement of the 2-Step switch and a brake input. If, by chance, you're using a switch with a light it will only light up when the 2-Step is activated, not armed. Now, with the brake input wire you have two options; #1. you could hook it up to your brake light switch that should be located on your brake pedal under the dash. If you do this make sure that you use the wire that is hot when you push the pedal down and not the one that's constantly hot. I'm not familiar with the 3rd Gen's wiring harness so I can't tell you the colors. #2. You could hook up the brake wire to the TCC/Cruise Brake wire at or near your PCM. I'm looking at a diagram for a 2000 F-Body and it's a purple wire, pin 33 and it looks to be hot when the pedal is pressed. I would go through your diagrams and hunt down the TCC/Cruise Brake circuit and test the wire and see if it's hot when you push the brake pedal before actually hooking it up.
Hit me up if you have any problems or questions.
Everything is basically the same except the placement of the 2-Step switch and a brake input. If, by chance, you're using a switch with a light it will only light up when the 2-Step is activated, not armed. Now, with the brake input wire you have two options; #1. you could hook it up to your brake light switch that should be located on your brake pedal under the dash. If you do this make sure that you use the wire that is hot when you push the pedal down and not the one that's constantly hot. I'm not familiar with the 3rd Gen's wiring harness so I can't tell you the colors. #2. You could hook up the brake wire to the TCC/Cruise Brake wire at or near your PCM. I'm looking at a diagram for a 2000 F-Body and it's a purple wire, pin 33 and it looks to be hot when the pedal is pressed. I would go through your diagrams and hunt down the TCC/Cruise Brake circuit and test the wire and see if it's hot when you push the brake pedal before actually hooking it up.
Hit me up if you have any problems or questions.
