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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 07:32 PM
  #21  
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I think opening that up with it just sitting on the ground was rather foolish. If it got blow over someone was getting hit hard with a nitrous bottle.
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
At what point is this valve going to become needed... I mean if I'm putting a 250 to 300 hit to a motor is there any advantage to havnig a valve like that over say the typical super highflow Nos style valve?

I'm curious, I know what I can get a regular 10 lb bottle for with a super high flow valve, and it's about 1/2 the price of this setup. I mean it's not a huge deal if I was buying one, but I was planning on purchasing 6 or 7 bottles next year before I start racing again, so that I have all the same thing in the car every round rather then the mix/match I have now.
I think what decides if you need it or not is how many kits you are running. You can only flow as much as the solenoids will allow. If you can manage it, its smarter and cheaper to have two bottles and a nitrous pump at the track with a mother bottle. That's what I will be using.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:35 AM
  #23  
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I'm not even sure if I'm gonna put 2 kits on the car. I might put a plate and a fogger on it just so I have a little more tunability and can split the hit up, try to be a little easier on the motor.. and try to not flip the car over

8.50 is the goal. New motor I have sitting here should be a good bit stronger then the old (iron 408, ET ls7 head, solid roller vs the old 240cc et cathedral headed 402 that was hydraulic) probably by about 150 to 200 motor hp, car will be 400 lbs ligher, and I plan on starting with a plate at about 175, use that to get the car working, then freshen the motor, add the fogger at the same time, I figure the 175 will be enough to get the car figured out again, and should at least give me an idea how much more I need to put to it.

Hoping to keep it under 300 total, things live for a long time at that level.

I don't think I need 2 bottles, or this setup for that matter.... I may put 2 in, but only so I can make 2 hits without changing them, keep the between round maintenance down a little bit.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:31 AM
  #24  
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I think our lightning valve would do just fine.

Being able to see what psi the bottles are with them out of the car or in the car without charging the line with gauge port is a huge plus.

When it comes to performance on our lightning valve or df5 valve. We have had many customers pick up power with just swapping to our bottles.

UTI in flordia use to run NOS Highflow valve's. They dyno a million times a year a nitrous combo they have for their students. On the SAME kit with the SAME 300 jets our lightning 45 valve made 20 more horsepower. 20 horsepower from a bottle valve.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 05:20 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I'm not even sure if I'm gonna put 2 kits on the car. I might put a plate and a fogger on it just so I have a little more tunability and can split the hit up, try to be a little easier on the motor.. and try to not flip the car over

8.50 is the goal. New motor I have sitting here should be a good bit stronger then the old (iron 408, ET ls7 head, solid roller vs the old 240cc et cathedral headed 402 that was hydraulic) probably by about 150 to 200 motor hp, car will be 400 lbs ligher, and I plan on starting with a plate at about 175, use that to get the car working, then freshen the motor, add the fogger at the same time, I figure the 175 will be enough to get the car figured out again, and should at least give me an idea how much more I need to put to it.

Hoping to keep it under 300 total, things live for a long time at that level.

I don't think I need 2 bottles, or this setup for that matter.... I may put 2 in, but only so I can make 2 hits without changing them, keep the between round maintenance down a little bit.
That's kind of my plan too. I disagree with two bottles, for one its extra weight and two its just another thing to baby sit. You will have to watch the pressure with both bottles and heat both etc. Plus the pressures will equalize so then that's another issue. If you don't want to change it every pass go with a 15lbr. That's what Steve Johnson suggested we do in the class he taught. Less weight and one less problem with almost as much nitrous.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #26  
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I had the original DF5 valve on an SX2 kit I just sold not too long ago. I have to say the revision to the valve is very impressive. I really like the added push port. I asked NANO a little while ago about if their kit would fit a DF5 valve and they said there was a valve spacer with the port and you had to modify the siphon tube.

I also really like the added safety feature of the self locking valve. With the recent unfortunate happenings of a bottle killing someone after dropping it any extra safety feature to keep the nitrous in the bottle is nice.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
I counted 6 seconds to pretty much dead empty (I think the liquid was gone in 4 though).
So 15 lb x 3600 / 6 = ~9,000 lb/hr
I think it was more like 15 lb x 3600 / 4 = 13,500 lb/hr
Thats not really and accurate way to figure it by counting the seconds in your head. I was kinda wondering if the guy from NX had the answer.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #28  
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JL Ws6 one decent bottle valve like the valves you already own will run 2 healthy systems. And since you are gonna run 2 bottles tee'd together and swap them out every other pass will be fine also.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 12:17 PM
  #29  
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No, I had absolutely NO intention of Teeing anything together, if I put 2 kits on the car (initially going to start with 1 and add a 2nd if I need to) I will run a seperate feed line for each kit.

I'm also going to do something that's a little different, and try to tune with 900 psi of bottle pressure, and I'm only putting 9 lbs in the 10 lb bottles so that way there's some expansion room in them so there's no head pressure type issues.

I'm going to try to use every trick I know of from the fast guys I know, that they use to keep a car consistant. Not sure if it will add up to anything, but when I'm trying to run on the 8.50 number every round, it should pay off.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 02:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by N20GMC
Thats not really and accurate way to figure it by counting the seconds in your head. I was kinda wondering if the guy from NX had the answer.
Fair enough. I was just going by video footage. Maybe Graham has a better answer. I'm still betting it can deliver 12+ lbs faster than most anyone could demand/use.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #31  
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None the less it would be money well spent on other things especially if you already have bottles. Since you will be running less than 300hp per system per bottle.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by N20GMC
Thats not really and accurate way to figure it by counting the seconds in your head. I was kinda wondering if the guy from NX had the answer.
Top secret.

Originally Posted by N20GMC
JL Ws6 one decent bottle valve like the valves you already own will run 2 healthy systems. And since you are gonna run 2 bottles tee'd together and swap them out every other pass will be fine also.
Will that work sure. But why leave power on the table? This is practically free power as far as setting up a combo goes.

Originally Posted by JL ws-6
No, I had absolutely NO intention of Teeing anything together, if I put 2 kits on the car (initially going to start with 1 and add a 2nd if I need to) I will run a seperate feed line for each kit.

I'm also going to do something that's a little different, and try to tune with 900 psi of bottle pressure, and I'm only putting 9 lbs in the 10 lb bottles so that way there's some expansion room in them so there's no head pressure type issues.

I'm going to try to use every trick I know of from the fast guys I know, that they use to keep a car consistant. Not sure if it will add up to anything, but when I'm trying to run on the 8.50 number every round, it should pay off.
100% On teeing the setups.

We were actually thinking of making a video on that very subject. Ill send you a PM on how we do like the psi to be set.

When you get around to it why dont you give us a call and we can go over all of it with you if you would like. Another pair of eyes never hurt.

Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
Fair enough. I was just going by video footage. Maybe Graham has a better answer. I'm still betting it can deliver 12+ lbs faster than most anyone could demand/use.
It supported a 1100 hit for 4 seconds on a promod.

Originally Posted by N20GMC
None the less it would be money well spent on other things especially if you already have bottles. Since you will be running less than 300hp per system per bottle.
I guess we disagree a little here. I think this is a great place to put your money. This is better quality product that adds power with no downside.Our products make more power on the same jets. Who doesnt want that?

For classes with a jet restriction, this is an ever bigger advantage.

This isnt so much a disscussion on flow. We designed our valves, nozzles, and soleniods to not only flow exceptional but be void of any sharp turns which would cause the nitrous to go gaseous. We also work to elminate any expansion areas that would cause the nitrous to go gaseous. This keeps the nitrous in a liquid form making it release all its cooling effect in the intake charge where it should be. Again, more power on the same jets.

Their valve ^



THE valve ^ - NX Lightning 45 valve
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 08:40 PM
  #33  
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real nice!
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 05:32 PM
  #34  
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Do you have any comparison flow numbers on the stranded valve and the lightning?
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 05:19 PM
  #35  
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Anyway you can make on that work with a remote bottle opener, or is this more of a strictly racing setup?
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 10:54 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 97Z28SS
Anyway you can make on that work with a remote bottle opener, or is this more of a strictly racing setup?
No sir. This was setup for guys who want to run huge hits without 2 bottles.
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