How about 150 shot and done?
07-12-2010, 07:51 AM
#3
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I don't know how to tell when you actually get to the point where you are "done". For me it's been a never ending challenge to go faster and faster... Started with goals to run high 12s on street tires, then better 12s on stickies, then high 11s, then mid 11s, now it's high 10s. It just never stops!
07-12-2010, 09:42 AM
#7
Ever seen "Dude where's my car?"
And then? And then? And then? And then? And then?
In all seriousness I would say a stall is a must. That alone will make a huge gains.
My reccomendation is try the stall and spray. See where your at. Then you can post in the internal section -
Cam and done?
And then? And then? And then? And then? And then?
In all seriousness I would say a stall is a must. That alone will make a huge gains.
My reccomendation is try the stall and spray. See where your at. Then you can post in the internal section -
Cam and done?
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07-12-2010, 09:52 AM
#8
I realise the street tire are gonna limit me and I want stall,tires,and cam. But I dont have money to replace the 10 bolt when it breaks from the tires or stall. So I figured for now do a shot around 3k rpm for a decent kick in the *** without having to worry about breaking stuff off the line from good hooking tires no?
07-12-2010, 10:28 AM
#9
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A4's don't really grenade rears. I've had several setup with spray, converter, slicks/drag radials, and never had issues. M6 cars will destroy 10 bolts in quick order. On the plus side, you can usually find a decent replacement 10 bolt for under $300!! You don't have to run an M/T radial, but at least a Nitto so you stay going straight. Big hits of nitrous don't work well with street tires! I've made plenty of unintended 90 degree turns figuring that one out.
07-12-2010, 10:51 AM
#10
A4's don't really grenade rears. I've had several setup with spray, converter, slicks/drag radials, and never had issues. M6 cars will destroy 10 bolts in quick order. On the plus side, you can usually find a decent replacement 10 bolt for under $300!! You don't have to run an M/T radial, but at least a Nitto so you stay going straight. Big hits of nitrous don't work well with street tires! I've made plenty of unintended 90 degree turns figuring that one out.
then from there....you know the rutine
07-12-2010, 10:59 AM
#11
Nitrous is a good amount of power. Depending on the how much you race the car you might be set. If your looking to get all setup on the spray give me a call.
I own a formula btw. So if you just have any typical ls questions just give me a call sir. Loving working ls street cars.
I own a formula btw. So if you just have any typical ls questions just give me a call sir. Loving working ls street cars.
07-12-2010, 12:07 PM
#12
A4's don't really grenade rears. I've had several setup with spray, converter, slicks/drag radials, and never had issues. M6 cars will destroy 10 bolts in quick order. On the plus side, you can usually find a decent replacement 10 bolt for under $300!! You don't have to run an M/T radial, but at least a Nitto so you stay going straight. Big hits of nitrous don't work well with street tires! I've made plenty of unintended 90 degree turns figuring that one out.
I wouldent let the 10 bolt stop you from doing what you want to do being you are in an auto. I ran my 10 bolt cam only for 3 years and finally had to replace the axles and diff with moser parts. Now I have heads and 100 shot and still no prolblems. I might be one of the lucky ones but I say stall it spray it and then win it.
07-12-2010, 01:09 PM
#13
LOl... I have to aggree with the above.. I have heard so many times " I am doing this and then I am done" I have said it myself..haha
Like stated above being an auto the hit will not be as hard on the rear but that does not mean it will not break. One precaution you may take it put the system on a progressive and gradualy bring it in. Sticky tires is a must though..
Your stock bottom end can safely take up to a 150 shot. However with the stock fuel pump and no fuel pressure gauge I would say a 100 shot is the safe point. The stock fuel pump is normaly good for about 450 rear wheel horse power.
The nitrous should easily knock a full second off your time. Obcourse traction plays a roll.
Dave
Like stated above being an auto the hit will not be as hard on the rear but that does not mean it will not break. One precaution you may take it put the system on a progressive and gradualy bring it in. Sticky tires is a must though..
Your stock bottom end can safely take up to a 150 shot. However with the stock fuel pump and no fuel pressure gauge I would say a 100 shot is the safe point. The stock fuel pump is normaly good for about 450 rear wheel horse power.
The nitrous should easily knock a full second off your time. Obcourse traction plays a roll.
Dave
07-12-2010, 03:26 PM
#14
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The one thing I would disagree with those above is - if you can't afford to fix it when it breaks (and it will break), then you may want to think twice about mods like nitrous, stalls, and sticky tires... 10 bolts don't last under the torque of nitrous... and neither do 4L60E tranny's for that matter.
Do it the smart way and build the car strong from the start before adding a bunch of power! Or you will be one of the many who spent their money on go-fast goodies then had to let their broke-*** car sit when it killed the tranny or rear and they couldn't afford to fix it...
Do it the smart way and build the car strong from the start before adding a bunch of power! Or you will be one of the many who spent their money on go-fast goodies then had to let their broke-*** car sit when it killed the tranny or rear and they couldn't afford to fix it...
07-12-2010, 09:08 PM
#15
The one thing I would disagree with those above is - if you can't afford to fix it when it breaks (and it will break), then you may want to think twice about mods like nitrous, stalls, and sticky tires... 10 bolts don't last under the torque of nitrous... and neither do 4L60E tranny's for that matter.
Do it the smart way and build the car strong from the start before adding a bunch of power! Or you will be one of the many who spent their money on go-fast goodies then had to let their broke-*** car sit when it killed the tranny or rear and they couldn't afford to fix it...
Do it the smart way and build the car strong from the start before adding a bunch of power! Or you will be one of the many who spent their money on go-fast goodies then had to let their broke-*** car sit when it killed the tranny or rear and they couldn't afford to fix it...
Couldn't have said it better my self. After the cam and before I put the heads on I put in a level 4 FLT and it feels great to know all 500rwhp wont kill that trans.
07-12-2010, 10:27 PM
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The one thing I would disagree with those above is - if you can't afford to fix it when it breaks (and it will break), then you may want to think twice about mods like nitrous, stalls, and sticky tires... 10 bolts don't last under the torque of nitrous... and neither do 4L60E tranny's for that matter.
Do it the smart way and build the car strong from the start before adding a bunch of power! Or you will be one of the many who spent their money on go-fast goodies then had to let their broke-*** car sit when it killed the tranny or rear and they couldn't afford to fix it...
Do it the smart way and build the car strong from the start before adding a bunch of power! Or you will be one of the many who spent their money on go-fast goodies then had to let their broke-*** car sit when it killed the tranny or rear and they couldn't afford to fix it...
