ok I have been dealing with this n2o kit all summer. I ahve checked all the wiring and grounds. I am getting a rpm signal to my window switch and my window switch indicates that I have a tps signal as well. I just moved my tps from the tb to the pcm in hopes that was it. well I took it out and when I tried to spray it I noticed it didn't come on so I let off but the rpms stayed high. I deactivated the n2o and the rpms went down. I am really stuck. I love the spray but this is just getting anoying... any ideas? I have the dynotune ws.

 

Odds are You have something wired wrong or programed wrong. What settings do you have on the window switch?

 

well I haven't changes the wiring at all. Its a dynotune dual stage window switch. when its idleing it read 1.0.0 when I go wot it read 0.1.1?

 

Instruction set...
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...W%20SWITCH.pdf

Understanding LED readout.
Your window switch has an LED readout that not only is for programming but also tells you what your window switch is doing. From
confirming your rpm input set up is correct, to helping you diagnose a problem if one arises.
0 = Off, 1 = Activated, L = Locked
1st LED is your TPS, 2nd LED is stage 1, 3rd LED is stage 2
So if you read
0. 0. 0. then all items are OFF.
1. 0. 0. you have reached your TPS activation set point. No activation of system.
0. 1. 0. you are inside your RPM window. No activation of system.
1. L. 0. you have reached your TPS activation set point, but you are in gear locked mode. No activation of system.
1. 1. 0. you have reached your TPS activation and are inside your RPM window. ACTIVATION OF SYSTEM.


From this looks like your TPS is activated...at idle, then when you go WOT it is not. Me thinks you need to correctly program the TPS. When you go WOT you enter the window for stage one and two so they are active, but your TPS is not so they should not fire.

Step 7 of the instructions
STEP 7. TPAS Mode
A B C = throttle position activation switch mode
0 0 0 = “grounded” WOT switch
0 0 1 = “hot” WOT switch
0 0 2 = TPS signal
0 0 3 = turns this feature off if you are not connecting the blue wire. WARNING, this option should only be
used if you have a WOT device controlling a relay. Using this feature will activate your relay anytime the
system is armed and inside the activation and deactivation window. Primarily used for systems that are
wired and wanting to have features of a window switch.

Give Dean or Dan a call @ Dynotune, as well Nitrous Outlet has the same window switch (its made by Trick Performance). So their input will be correct as well.

 

beer, that is exactly what I did this morning. I am out od spray but will try when I get more. I am crossing my fingers. not sure that explains the rpms staying high?

 

You have to check the rpms by pressing the button #1 while its running do the rpms match the idle? should read like 008 for 800 RPM

Its going to be 000 if coil packs or 004 if off the PCM wire.

STEP 1. TACH set-up
B C is the number of cylinders. This setting is used by the RPMWS to calculate the correct RPM.
0 0 0 = individual coil per cylinder systems where the tach wire is connected to the coil
0 0 1 = coil packs that fire in pairs (waste spark systems) and the tach wire is connected to the coil
0 0 2 ~ 0 1 2 = cylinder combinations from 2 to 12 where the tach wire is connected to the tach from the engine
electronic controller or distributor. EX. 002 would be for a 2 cyl application. LS1 vehicles connecting to the tach
wire at the PCM will use 004 . Note: If you have trouble finding a tach signal cycle through all the tach setups until
you find one that works. Rev up the vehicle after you get an idle RPM to verify that the RPM’s matches your tach.

 

yes i have.