Piston limits
Piston limits Hey guys/girls, just wanted to know if anyone's spraying on these pistons and what are my limits when running these? I already talked to Diamond and they dont suggest anything over 150shot, but I just think maybe there trying to cover there a**. I'm just starting my build and I know there's better piston out there for nitrous, but I came across these brand new for cheap and I could'nt let them go. Anything I can do to make them better for spray?
I don't see on that label what material they are made from. If they are not made from the correct material, then they really aren't a good nitrous piston. I'd assume, that is the case if Diamond is telling you no more then 150.
Find out what material they are made from, if it's not 2618, then they really aren't a good chioce regardless of deaign for a power adder application. You could have them coated, but it's only going to make a nominal difference at best... the material is the big thing, followed by the top ringland thickness, valve relief size/location (how close are they to the top ringland), thickness of the top of the piston is also important... pretty much all aspects of the piston effect it's application and what it will take, abuse wise.
Find out what material they are made from, if it's not 2618, then they really aren't a good chioce regardless of deaign for a power adder application. You could have them coated, but it's only going to make a nominal difference at best... the material is the big thing, followed by the top ringland thickness, valve relief size/location (how close are they to the top ringland), thickness of the top of the piston is also important... pretty much all aspects of the piston effect it's application and what it will take, abuse wise.
Generally the more Silcone used in the construction of the pistion makes it more brittle and hence weaker. It helps keep the piston from expanding and generally keeps everything quiet but when it comes to strength, detonation can break chunks off of it.
When it comes to nitrous, I have come to realize that over building something is not a bad idea. BUT that any idiot not running the set up correctly can blow even the best forged piston to hell is something that should be accounted for.
When it comes to nitrous, I have come to realize that over building something is not a bad idea. BUT that any idiot not running the set up correctly can blow even the best forged piston to hell is something that should be accounted for.
They are 2618 alloy. They're the same slugs I've got in my "budget" motor. They're definately no custom nitrous piston, but they should hold up to more than 150 if the tune up is right. I've got th 200 jets in my kit right now (have only sprayed it on the street), sprayed 175ish (ET in sig) all last season, and plan to up the jets to 250 to get this pig in the mid 9's.
That's probably as far as I'd push them, and I'm fairly confident in my skills to tune the kit. The piston just isn't designed well for much over that (top ring land is OK at best).
That's probably as far as I'd push them, and I'm fairly confident in my skills to tune the kit. The piston just isn't designed well for much over that (top ring land is OK at best).
Like Ryarbrough says. Its all going to be in the tunning and plugs. I know you can hit it with a 150 no problems with the correct tune and gas. I have friends with ls1 stock that do that lol.
If you are building a nitrous motor then I would get the better pistons and have them coated but it all comes back to what you have for as a budget.
If you are building a nitrous motor then I would get the better pistons and have them coated but it all comes back to what you have for as a budget.
I also laugh when these companies rate these pistons for "light nitrous use." What is it light compared to? Hobbyists shooting 300 on street cars or promod cars where 500 is their "small" kit....
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I guess I should let you guys know what I'm trying to achieve out of the build. I'd like to make 750-800ish through a multiple stage 300 shot. Realistic? I don't know, that why I need you guys. Like I said before I scored a sweet deal on these pistons and I'd love you use them and spend the extra money on other **** like some awesome heads.
Did you have them coated? And how long did that setup last.
Did you have them coated? And how long did that setup last.
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Verdad Gallardo If you want to use them (and if I were to build my motor again) you should at least have them worked over to remove any sharp edges that could cause hot spots (read "detonation") and have them coated.
Your tune up better be spot on if you are gonna hit it tha hard. They lasted me 2 years and would have lasted longer if I would have known then what I know now. I ended up lifting a ring land because of a rich condition that I had early on.... I did not know it till months layer when I tore it apart to freshen it up.
I was relying on a liquid filled guage about a year and a half aho and it was all over the place from pass to pass. After I figured out the problem I checked the FP and it was about 6lbs higher than it should have been LOL.
I was relying on a liquid filled guage about a year and a half aho and it was all over the place from pass to pass. After I figured out the problem I checked the FP and it was about 6lbs higher than it should have been LOL.
Just so you know I didn't do any of those things to my pistons before installing them, not saying that it would hurt anything, I just didn't do it... (Other than the healthy tune)
They are 2618 like mentioned above. The piston itself will hand well over 150hp of spray....you will want to get a good steel top ring set however (instead of a standard plasma top for instance).
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The steel ring would help, and make sure they're gapped accordingly. If they're 2618, they should be fine to more then 150 no problem. Just have to watch the tuneup, as that's what will kill the top ring land if it's not thick.
But as rayburne mentioned the coating and deburring should eliminate hot spots decressing my chance of detenation right?
If they are done correctly then yes, it should help. None of those will matter if the tune up is shitty though.
I'd be very careful on the de-burring part. I'd just do it by hand, no rotary tools unless you have the hands of a surgeon....