use a window switch? Does anyone use it all or just spray out the gate and dont use one at all. I have a fully built trans with 12 bolt, do I even need a window switch setting or not? Is it safer, better, mandatory to have one?
thanks

 

not mandatory to have no. More or less it's best used for an m6 car. You can either put it on a wot switch, or put it on a button. Or you can do what I did and put it on both, one for saftey, and 2 if you play on the street, and start spinning, its easier to let off a button rather than backing your foot off the pedal. Easier to control that way. Good Luck

 

Mine is a tpas swich, So I dont need to use a window switch at all? Just spray through the gears then? If thats the case then I will just use the box for another project then? I have the WOT switch already, so just use that with NO w.s then correct? IS that what I can do for sure!

 

I used to have a A4 Before I went to my T400. I would use a window switch or get one I have the NitrousOulet one with the TPS and Window switch.
My old set up I had it set 3200 out of the hole then had the tps set at 4.0 4.5 was wide open. then I shift at 7200 so I would have it the window switch shut off at 6900 rpms to be safe with the A4.

 

Mine is set up a WOT switch and thus far no problems. I do have the fuel cut set somewhere in the stratosphere and just have to be johnny on the spot with the throttle if I spin the tires too hard on the street. I'm also spraying through the shifts.

 

As long as the tranny is built and will hold go for it.

 

And this one is. I'm running a FLT Level 4 4L60. Granted I'm only spraying 200ish.

 

So me having a fully forged engine, built trans and a 12bolt. I DO NOT need a window switch? Is that what im being told

 

not as much to worry about then if your forged. Hell sounds like you need to get to it and squeeze the trigger.

 

Put a window switch on the car to keep it from spraying under 3000 RPM. Spraying at low RPM is hell on parts, the torque spike is larger the lower you engage the nitrous.

 

Put a window switch on it so it doesn't spray below 3,000 like said above (tends to be hell on intakes) and set the top end to cut off before the rev limiter (nitrous and rev limiters don't mix)...

 

Very inexpensive insurance. I finally decided not to use one because Dave was having problems getting them instock when I purchased my kit. I know a few people running fast times without them so I said so can I. After talking with Dave on a lengthy tech call he encouraged me to get one and I'm glad I did. It's very easy to rev it into the limiter on the gas and you do not want to spray under those conditions. You may have all the kinks smoothed out and hit the shifts perfect and not have any problems BUT there's always that split second when things just don't work out as planned

edit - this was meant toward aug181983, not krissoto. my bad

 

Personally I think your crazy not to run a window switch regardless of what trans you have. If the trans slips or for any other reason it doesn't shift and you slam the limiter while spraying, there goes the motor, forged or not. It's cheap insurance, just use one.

 

my buddys flt levle 4 brand new on motor (11.3) 1st pass and like 200 miles blew a pump seal
he paid to buy the parts and we fixed it.
put it back in, couple hunded miles on the street and a couple quick blasts with a 75 shot to tune it, trailer it to the track, 2 passes with 100 shot (10.5)
slipped going into 3rd according to the log. couple days later street driving, its blown up. wont shift. change fluid and filter, junk.
so hope you got a good one. lol

 

4L60E's and nitrous just don't mix... I don't care who builds it or how much you spend... bet it doesn't last a season on much spray!

 

I have a 700r4(4L60) in mine that ran from 2004 to 2009 pulled it out to freshen it and only replaced the 3/4 clutch pack.

So it can be done

 

My buddy has been running low 9s for 3 years on the same trans. It was pulled apart every season and looks the way it was when it was newly rebuilt.