No it doesn't but it doesn't matter which cylinder it is does it? Knock is knock and usually either means too much timing or not enough fuel. If you have any knock at all then you know there is an issue with either timing or fuel as I mentioned. If you have no knock then in my eyes things are running pretty smoothly. Now this is assuming the knock sensors work as they should. Somebody said earlier something about the knock sensors not being very good in our cars which I have never heard, in fact I always heard the opposite that they were pretty good at detecting true knock and the computer pulls timing as it should.

 

The KR is not an effective way to prevent you from hurting something. If you've got the wrong plug, you could theoretically see a "good" plug and have too much timing. There might be enough to cause enough knock to cause KR. That parameter was meant for use on NA motors, not nitrous cars. You'll burn stuff up quick with larger shots if you rely on thhat as a tuning tool.

I would have started by pulling around 14 on the 200 to be conservative and rolled the timing in based on what the strap looks like.

 

Fuel on both is 93 octane. Shifting at 6200. running 58 psi FP at idle but at WOT have seen it climb to 61 before. 26" tire which is plenty of tire for my 3.70 gear. Exhaust is Pacesetter LT's with offroad Y pipe with a corsa catback and a cutout that I always have open. Trans is Performabuilt TH400. Not going to do a compression check or leakdown because this is this motors last hurrah as it has 136K miles on it and I am in the process of building a 408 for the car. Just want to see a 10 sec slip on a stock heads and cam car.

 

Well as I said I can pull the plugs but it won't do much good now. I had to drive the car back down the return road from my last quarter mile pass so any indication on the plugs will be gone by now I am sure. On a large shot (300+) I could maybe see pulling the plugs after every pass and all that but considering I have had pretty good success with a 150 shot over the past 5 years and have never had an issue I just don't see it as being completely necessary.

 

I understand that you have experience with nitrous, but why are you arguing with the veterans of this forum about reading the plugs? You posted that you want advice, but you aren't willing to listen to it unless it is what you want to hear. Make another pass on the 200 shot and datalog it, but shut down the car immediately after the pull and post up pics of ALL 8 PLUGS and these guys will bless you with knowledge. Trust me. And trust these guys, they know what they are doing.

 

Look... In all honesty, you've got to try pretty hard to hurt **** badly with a 150 shot... That doesn't mean you shouldn't try to do things right! Get a good plug read and we will help figure out what the issue is. I don't like the timing that you are running and the fuel jetting is suspect as well. It's probably making power and pushing through the converter, but that doesnt mean that is the only problem. I've met you a few times when you came around RPM and I want to make sure we get the best tune up in the car. Not trying to be an *******, but there are some big problems with your approach that me, ATV, etc. are trying to correct before you put a better bullet in it and try to hit it with a bigger pill.

 

Well the plug read is not going to be any good now because I drove the car after the pass to get back to the pits. So everybody is saying shut the car off immediately after the pass you just shut it off on the return road and start pulling the plugs right there? I have never seen anybody along the return road pulling their plugs out at the 5 or 6 different tracks I have been too in my life so am I missing something or is it ok to drive back to the pits?