Nitrous build, 388Lt1
Nitrous build, 388Lt1 I have a 388 lt1 forged bottom end and using a flat top forged piston built for nitrous. Im also using AFR 210 heads that were also max ported. Lt4 intake and LT headers, bullet, dump. Backed by a th400 trans and a 3.55 gear on 28s.
I will be using a 250 shot minimum and would like to know what the hardcore guys think about this setup
Looking to do this with a HR cam. 244/252 .640/.640 110 LSA HR cam.
4000 stall at minimum. Mainly to drive on street still but be really usable at the track
This will be on a stock pcm and im looking to take it all the way to 7000 rpm.
Does it sound doable and what do you think its capable of?
I will be using a 250 shot minimum and would like to know what the hardcore guys think about this setup
Looking to do this with a HR cam. 244/252 .640/.640 110 LSA HR cam.
4000 stall at minimum. Mainly to drive on street still but be really usable at the track
This will be on a stock pcm and im looking to take it all the way to 7000 rpm.
Does it sound doable and what do you think its capable of?
Last edited by SPRAYED Z; Nov 16, 2010 at 06:29 PM.
[QUOTE=Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet;14130526]Do you have any more info on the bottom end components?
Splayed caps? 4 bolt gm lt4 block
Crank? Forged, lunati
Rods? JE forged I beams
Pistons? Cp bullet
Ring Gap? Dont know yet but am setting it up for a 300 shot +
What do you have fuel system wise? stock fuel tank/ racetronixs hotwire and pump, Using a N.O stand alone. Plan to run on pump gas 93 in tank and c16 in stand alone
Hope this answers your ?
Splayed caps? 4 bolt gm lt4 block
Crank? Forged, lunati
Rods? JE forged I beams
Pistons? Cp bullet
Ring Gap? Dont know yet but am setting it up for a 300 shot +
What do you have fuel system wise? stock fuel tank/ racetronixs hotwire and pump, Using a N.O stand alone. Plan to run on pump gas 93 in tank and c16 in stand alone
Hope this answers your ?
If you have not already built the bottom end go to splayed caps.
I would find out what the rods and pistons are rated to from the manufacture.
The engine builder should know how the rings need to be gaped for the power level.
Fuel system you look to be good. Deffintly go direct port.
Dave
I would find out what the rods and pistons are rated to from the manufacture.
The engine builder should know how the rings need to be gaped for the power level.
Fuel system you look to be good. Deffintly go direct port.
Dave
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: A DEN
If you have not already built the bottom end go to splayed caps.
I would find out what the rods and pistons are rated to from the manufacture.
The engine builder should know how the rings need to be gaped for the power level.
Fuel system you look to be good. Deffintly go direct port.
Dave
I would find out what the rods and pistons are rated to from the manufacture.
The engine builder should know how the rings need to be gaped for the power level.
Fuel system you look to be good. Deffintly go direct port.
Dave
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Verdad Gallardo If you have not already built the bottom end go to splayed caps.
I would find out what the rods and pistons are rated to from the manufacture.
The engine builder should know how the rings need to be gaped for the power level.
Fuel system you look to be good. Deffintly go direct port.
Dave
I would find out what the rods and pistons are rated to from the manufacture.
The engine builder should know how the rings need to be gaped for the power level.
Fuel system you look to be good. Deffintly go direct port.
Dave
The pistons can handle over 300 shot and are made of 2618 material
The rods are forged I beams and was told over 300 again.
As for the ring gap, yes he will know what to gap them to but I dont at this moment.
Stand alone is what im going to use
[QUOTE=Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet;14136658]Boe, I seen Grant was editing pictures of your intake yesterday.
Thanks, pics look great! Was there any material added to this lt4 intake or not? Because it looks like it. Also can you send me a pic of what the runner looks like with the injector and nozzle in the intake?
It seriously looks like the nozzle will be in the intake about 3/4" minimum and being directly below the injector. WIll the fueling have any issues at all when idling to WOT or will it not be effected?
thanks
Thanks, pics look great! Was there any material added to this lt4 intake or not? Because it looks like it. Also can you send me a pic of what the runner looks like with the injector and nozzle in the intake?
It seriously looks like the nozzle will be in the intake about 3/4" minimum and being directly below the injector. WIll the fueling have any issues at all when idling to WOT or will it not be effected?
thanks
I do not have any other pictures. The nozzle is under the injector. WE have done alot of them this way. No issues. Welding a bung to the runner and using our straight blow through nozzle would be another option. This will keep the nozzle from entering the intake runner.
Dave
Dave
Your 4 bolt LT4 block will work fine as long as you use good fasteners (ARP).
I think your cam needs to be around a 112 lsa instead of 110. And like Dave said go direct port. Like I told you the other day the nozzle sticking into the runner will cause no concern. You will be fine. Just read the plugs. Also spark plug choice is very important on a shot that big. Get with me or Dave to point you in the right direction.
I think your cam needs to be around a 112 lsa instead of 110. And like Dave said go direct port. Like I told you the other day the nozzle sticking into the runner will cause no concern. You will be fine. Just read the plugs. Also spark plug choice is very important on a shot that big. Get with me or Dave to point you in the right direction.
Your 4 bolt LT4 block will work fine as long as you use good fasteners (ARP).
I think your cam needs to be around a 112 lsa instead of 110. And like Dave said go direct port. Like I told you the other day the nozzle sticking into the runner will cause no concern. You will be fine. Just read the plugs. Also spark plug choice is very important on a shot that big. Get with me or Dave to point you in the right direction.
I think your cam needs to be around a 112 lsa instead of 110. And like Dave said go direct port. Like I told you the other day the nozzle sticking into the runner will cause no concern. You will be fine. Just read the plugs. Also spark plug choice is very important on a shot that big. Get with me or Dave to point you in the right direction.
As for plugs I was going to put 10s in there for a 250 shot> I always like to keep em colder and creep up on the bigger shot
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 365
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From: A DEN
Awesome, yes it has arp studs and arp bolts for the rods as well. The cam is what lloyd specd me to have and I was thinking the same about the lsa being on a 111 or 112 but thats what he wanted me to run. But I also guess its for being on the street/cruising.
As for plugs I was going to put 10s in there for a 250 shot> I always like to keep em colder and creep up on the bigger shot
As for plugs I was going to put 10s in there for a 250 shot> I always like to keep em colder and creep up on the bigger shot
Gonna need a badass tuner to run around on 10's. My LSA is a 108.
