Br7ef or br6ef
Br7ef or br6ef Well quick question here. Mods are in my sig I'm planning on spraying 100 shot probably no more than that. I DD my car about 40 miles daily. I've read about using the the non projected vs the projected thats why I'm currently using the br7ef but I have seen some discussion on how that plug might be too cold. Its basically a bolt on car w/ a 228 cam and 100 shot of nitrous. Its a wet nozzle shot. What would be better the 7 or the 6? Thanks in advance.
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Verdad Gallardo Well when I got the car tuned the tuner told me since it was only 100 shot and it was a wet shot that I didn't really need to fine tune the car for the nitrous especially because my nitrous was gonna be a thing that I only use at the track every other month or so. I don't know how true this is. I asked him about the timing and he said he had already tuned it in there for a little bit less timing for the nitrous. I usually run around n/a and didnt want the car to fall flat on its face when I'm not using nitrous. I was just wondering if the plugs would be too cold for a DD but seems like everybody agrees the BR7EF's are the way to go.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 367
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From: Kentucky
I think you need a new tuner...
Stick with the 7's.
As for the tune say your car likes 30* WOT of timing then you would reduce timing by 4* for 100 shot from say 2800 or 2900 rpms to 8000.look and see where your cylinder airmass is during WOT and then drop back below the lowest point to be safe. So if your lowest g/cyl/sec is .70 the lets go with .60-.62 through 1.0. take 4* out of those cells and your set for nitrous and N/A should only drop a little in torque.
As for the tune say your car likes 30* WOT of timing then you would reduce timing by 4* for 100 shot from say 2800 or 2900 rpms to 8000.look and see where your cylinder airmass is during WOT and then drop back below the lowest point to be safe. So if your lowest g/cyl/sec is .70 the lets go with .60-.62 through 1.0. take 4* out of those cells and your set for nitrous and N/A should only drop a little in torque.
Mods are in my sig as well. I want to up the shot to 75hp from 50hp
Tuned for NOS 35 Fuel 18 with 11.8-11.9 A/F
I am running tr6 and was advised to run br6ef. Should I consider the br7ef?
My tuner wants to pull another degree of timing and tune for the A/F.
I have a wideband in my progressive controller.
Is this still necessary if I go to a non projected tip or a step colder non projected and
switch the jet from the 35 to the 41 and say 22 for gas while I watch the AF under full throttle, then say go to 20 gas jet, if I need to lean it out a little while watching the A/F? I also have the safety cutoff for the nos based on the A/F range I select or the pressure I select.
I am considering the different plug and then driving to tuner if necessary which is
3 hours from my home.
The reason I am asking this is because of the small increase in jet size.
Also the car is my DD.
Tuned for NOS 35 Fuel 18 with 11.8-11.9 A/F
I am running tr6 and was advised to run br6ef. Should I consider the br7ef?
My tuner wants to pull another degree of timing and tune for the A/F.
I have a wideband in my progressive controller.
Is this still necessary if I go to a non projected tip or a step colder non projected and
switch the jet from the 35 to the 41 and say 22 for gas while I watch the AF under full throttle, then say go to 20 gas jet, if I need to lean it out a little while watching the A/F? I also have the safety cutoff for the nos based on the A/F range I select or the pressure I select.
I am considering the different plug and then driving to tuner if necessary which is
3 hours from my home.
The reason I am asking this is because of the small increase in jet size.
Also the car is my DD.
Last edited by cbloveday; Jan 1, 2011 at 06:13 AM.
I will order some 7 with the non-projected insulators.
Any reccommendations on the gap? 33 ok?
You'll love the V on nos.