SRTKLLR

iTrader: (1)

I installed a nitrous kit along with the progressive controller and want to make sure I have it all wired up right. I noticed that when I go WOT the display goes from 0-1-1 to 1-1-1 but the first 1 is not in steady stage but looks like it is going from 0 to 1 real quick.

When I was setting it up I blipped the throttle while at idle and it went to 4.7 volts but I noticed that while actually driving it only went to 4.0 at WOT so I reset it to 4.0.

The way I have it wired is the Blue wire from the progressive went to the Purple wire from the TPS.

Also, how can I check to see if the solenoids are working with ETC. I can't meet the min RPM window and TPS when the car is off to listen to them activate.

SRTKLLR

iTrader: (1)

I am headed to the track in the morning so somebody please chime in with some advice/help.

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

can you turn off rpm totally? then you can turn the key on and go to wot and it should pulse. set it to like 50% for 1 second

SRTKLLR

iTrader: (1)

I tried setting the window switch to 0 rpm's and turning the key forward to run. All I could hear was the TB opening when I went WOT. The purge works with no problem as I can hear it click when I hit the switch. The digital display goes to 1-1-1 but the first 1 is not as steady as the other two.

My settings are:

Step 1 - .0
Step 2 - .0
Step 3 - .1
Step 4 - .1
Step 5 - 00.0
Step 6 - .0
Step 7 - 00.0
Step 8 - 05.5
Step 9 - .2
Step 10 - 4.0

If the progressive starting ramp percentage(Step 1) is set to 0(Zero) does that mean it will start at zero and ramp up or is that 0 for 100%?

BTW, I do not have the fuel or nitrous lines hooked up totally yet for safety.

Chris@NitroDaves

Sorry i didn't call you sooner....I was slammed today at the shop.

It looks like there might be a TPS issue of some sort going on. I'd switch wires on the TPS from the purple wire to the green wire. Sometimes on the newer model DBW vehicles they work great on one wire but not on the other.

Let me know if what we discussed worked or not and we can go from there.

SRTKLLR

iTrader: (1)

Just got back from the track. I got confirmation that the stuff I ordered from you arrived. So I will be making a new wiring harness with the weatherpak connectors instead of the butt connectors. If that doesn't take car of it I will switch the tps wire like you said.

I wanted so bad to spray at the track today.

SRTKLLR

iTrader: (1)

I took everything off and checked it then I switched from the Purple TPS wire to the Green TPS wire and everything seems OK. I haven't tried it with the nitrous open or the fuel hooked up but the 1-1-1 lights were steady and I could hear the solenoids click. It is hard to know if both(fuel/nitrous) were clicking or just one though.

Tomorrow I will hook up the fuel line and check it out.

singlesupra

I usually test each seperatly. For instance I will test it with JUST nitrous pressure. Then I will shut the bottle and supply fuel and test it.

SRTKLLR

iTrader: (1)

Yeh, I was only going to hook up the fuel side to test it. I did not feel comfortable hooking the nitrous side by itself as I did not want it going less from adding nitrous without any additional fuel.

singlesupra

Sorry I didn't clarify. I meant I always test it with the hood up, engine off, key forward. I didn't mean I spray the engine. I usually spray the fuel in a small bucket and the nitrous into the air. I do it seperatly to verify each works