Nitrous: a slew of questions
09-21-2011, 04:02 PM
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Nitrous: a slew of questions I don't post much, but this is my favorite LS forum, and since the Camaro5 forum is a bit...well...not a lot of technical substance to put it lightly. So, I'm reposting my questions here to give some of the more hardcore LS vendors/users a chance to answer some technical questions without thinking I'm talking about how to wire an orange HID headlight ring or apply some stupid sticker (sorry, but that's pretty much how I feel about the average C5 forum user).
Sooooo, questions below, and given my plan to purchase #4 below, maybe a potential supporting vendor can impress with some succinct, knowledgable, low marketing-hype answers My mind is a sponge, and willing to learn.
This weekend I'm replacing my LNC-003 2-step with a LNC-2000 2-step/timing controller. I'm also wiring in a window/TPS switch. For the record, I have a TPS switch wired onto my clutch pedal sensor for 2-step activation. Additionally, I have a MSD 8918 tach signal pickup feeding a shift light.
I believe the controls/wiring of a nitrous setup to be the most important and time-consuming part. That being said, here are some lingering questions:
1. Diodes: For electronics protection from solenoids, can I wire just one diode from power to ground leads (ie - diode "pointing" to ground) on the pair (fuel and nitrous) or do I need a separate diode for each?
2. Diode: Should another diode be placed across the purge solenoid?
3. Clutch switch: Since a clutch switch is available, should I use it or is the TPS WOT switch sufficient?
4. Plate types: Seems there are two types of plate systems: "peripheral port" (HSW, Zex) and then, for lack of a common term, I'll say "sector port" (Nitrous Outlet, Cold Fusion, Dynotune). All things being equal, ie - jets of a desired size located on the plate, are there any reasons to not consider one or the other?
5. Nitrous line routing: Seems to me, getting the routing out of the interior is a good idea, but maybe there are some pragmatic reasons to not worry about that and just run it inside. Is there a generally considered correct way?
6. RPM window setting: First I plan on a first gear lockout, and then, since my LS3's power curve is pretty typical for an OEM EFI manifolded engine: pretty flat around 6000+ rpm, and with 3.91 gears, I shift at first around 4500 rpm, then 2nd on up shift around 6400-6600 rpm, which drops to about 5000-5100 rpm after a shift. Question: given all that, what would most recommend the 2 RPM window settings be?
7. Timing. I've spent quite a bit of track and dyno time getting these optimized. Just 1 to 1.5 degrees more in any cell of the high octane timing map at the high load row and the engine will knock. How much timing should I retard for a 75 and then 100 shot settings? I get the feeling I should err on the side of another 1 or 2 on top of the recommended 2 per 50.
8. Fuel. Given the 473/437 dyno numbers, is 93 octane fine or should I add a bottle of Torco to be safe?
9. Fuel feed line from body to rail. While I went ahead and bought one from Nitrous Outlet, to err on the side of safety, what is the deal with that OEM line? are there possible flow rate problems with it that cause people to replace it with a -6 sized hose?
10. 75 or 100 shot on top of 473 rwhp. That's the goal. Any potential issues given the system I'm building: window/TPS w/LNC timing retard controlling some plate system with a -6 fuel feed to the OEM rail?
Thanks in advance for any help. For reference, here's my arrived at timing map (green line). Following that is a plot of the HP Tuners Delivered Torque calculation, which I used to verify I was going in the right direction as far as add/removing timing. Yes, I hate to admit it, but I'm an engineer by day LOL
Sooooo, questions below, and given my plan to purchase #4 below, maybe a potential supporting vendor can impress with some succinct, knowledgable, low marketing-hype answers My mind is a sponge, and willing to learn.
This weekend I'm replacing my LNC-003 2-step with a LNC-2000 2-step/timing controller. I'm also wiring in a window/TPS switch. For the record, I have a TPS switch wired onto my clutch pedal sensor for 2-step activation. Additionally, I have a MSD 8918 tach signal pickup feeding a shift light.
I believe the controls/wiring of a nitrous setup to be the most important and time-consuming part. That being said, here are some lingering questions:
1. Diodes: For electronics protection from solenoids, can I wire just one diode from power to ground leads (ie - diode "pointing" to ground) on the pair (fuel and nitrous) or do I need a separate diode for each?
2. Diode: Should another diode be placed across the purge solenoid?
3. Clutch switch: Since a clutch switch is available, should I use it or is the TPS WOT switch sufficient?
4. Plate types: Seems there are two types of plate systems: "peripheral port" (HSW, Zex) and then, for lack of a common term, I'll say "sector port" (Nitrous Outlet, Cold Fusion, Dynotune). All things being equal, ie - jets of a desired size located on the plate, are there any reasons to not consider one or the other?
5. Nitrous line routing: Seems to me, getting the routing out of the interior is a good idea, but maybe there are some pragmatic reasons to not worry about that and just run it inside. Is there a generally considered correct way?
6. RPM window setting: First I plan on a first gear lockout, and then, since my LS3's power curve is pretty typical for an OEM EFI manifolded engine: pretty flat around 6000+ rpm, and with 3.91 gears, I shift at first around 4500 rpm, then 2nd on up shift around 6400-6600 rpm, which drops to about 5000-5100 rpm after a shift. Question: given all that, what would most recommend the 2 RPM window settings be?
7. Timing. I've spent quite a bit of track and dyno time getting these optimized. Just 1 to 1.5 degrees more in any cell of the high octane timing map at the high load row and the engine will knock. How much timing should I retard for a 75 and then 100 shot settings? I get the feeling I should err on the side of another 1 or 2 on top of the recommended 2 per 50.
8. Fuel. Given the 473/437 dyno numbers, is 93 octane fine or should I add a bottle of Torco to be safe?
9. Fuel feed line from body to rail. While I went ahead and bought one from Nitrous Outlet, to err on the side of safety, what is the deal with that OEM line? are there possible flow rate problems with it that cause people to replace it with a -6 sized hose?
10. 75 or 100 shot on top of 473 rwhp. That's the goal. Any potential issues given the system I'm building: window/TPS w/LNC timing retard controlling some plate system with a -6 fuel feed to the OEM rail?
Thanks in advance for any help. For reference, here's my arrived at timing map (green line). Following that is a plot of the HP Tuners Delivered Torque calculation, which I used to verify I was going in the right direction as far as add/removing timing. Yes, I hate to admit it, but I'm an engineer by day LOL
09-22-2011, 11:40 AM
#2
I don't post much, but this is my favorite LS forum, and since the Camaro5 forum is a bit...well...not a lot of technical substance to put it lightly. So, I'm reposting my questions here to give some of the more hardcore LS vendors/users a chance to answer some technical questions without thinking I'm talking about how to wire an orange HID headlight ring or apply some stupid sticker (sorry, but that's pretty much how I feel about the average C5 forum user).
Sooooo, questions below, and given my plan to purchase #4 below, maybe a potential supporting vendor can impress with some succinct, knowledgable, low marketing-hype answers My mind is a sponge, and willing to learn.
This weekend I'm replacing my LNC-003 2-step with a LNC-2000 2-step/timing controller. I'm also wiring in a window/TPS switch. For the record, I have a TPS switch wired onto my clutch pedal sensor for 2-step activation. Additionally, I have a MSD 8918 tach signal pickup feeding a shift light.
I believe the controls/wiring of a nitrous setup to be the most important and time-consuming part. That being said, here are some lingering questions:
1. Diodes: For electronics protection from solenoids, can I wire just one diode from power to ground leads (ie - diode "pointing" to ground) on the pair (fuel and nitrous) or do I need a separate diode for each?
2. Diode: Should another diode be placed across the purge solenoid?
3. Clutch switch: Since a clutch switch is available, should I use it or is the TPS WOT switch sufficient?
4. Plate types: Seems there are two types of plate systems: "peripheral port" (HSW, Zex) and then, for lack of a common term, I'll say "sector port" (Nitrous Outlet, Cold Fusion, Dynotune). All things being equal, ie - jets of a desired size located on the plate, are there any reasons to not consider one or the other?
5. Nitrous line routing: Seems to me, getting the routing out of the interior is a good idea, but maybe there are some pragmatic reasons to not worry about that and just run it inside. Is there a generally considered correct way?
6. RPM window setting: First I plan on a first gear lockout, and then, since my LS3's power curve is pretty typical for an OEM EFI manifolded engine: pretty flat around 6000+ rpm, and with 3.91 gears, I shift at first around 4500 rpm, then 2nd on up shift around 6400-6600 rpm, which drops to about 5000-5100 rpm after a shift. Question: given all that, what would most recommend the 2 RPM window settings be?
7. Timing. I've spent quite a bit of track and dyno time getting these optimized. Just 1 to 1.5 degrees more in any cell of the high octane timing map at the high load row and the engine will knock. How much timing should I retard for a 75 and then 100 shot settings? I get the feeling I should err on the side of another 1 or 2 on top of the recommended 2 per 50.
8. Fuel. Given the 473/437 dyno numbers, is 93 octane fine or should I add a bottle of Torco to be safe?
9. Fuel feed line from body to rail. While I went ahead and bought one from Nitrous Outlet, to err on the side of safety, what is the deal with that OEM line? are there possible flow rate problems with it that cause people to replace it with a -6 sized hose?
10. 75 or 100 shot on top of 473 rwhp. That's the goal. Any potential issues given the system I'm building: window/TPS w/LNC timing retard controlling some plate system with a -6 fuel feed to the OEM rail?
Thanks in advance for any help. For reference, here's my arrived at timing map (green line). Following that is a plot of the HP Tuners Delivered Torque calculation, which I used to verify I was going in the right direction as far as add/removing timing. Yes, I hate to admit it, but I'm an engineer by day LOL
Sooooo, questions below, and given my plan to purchase #4 below, maybe a potential supporting vendor can impress with some succinct, knowledgable, low marketing-hype answers My mind is a sponge, and willing to learn.
This weekend I'm replacing my LNC-003 2-step with a LNC-2000 2-step/timing controller. I'm also wiring in a window/TPS switch. For the record, I have a TPS switch wired onto my clutch pedal sensor for 2-step activation. Additionally, I have a MSD 8918 tach signal pickup feeding a shift light.
I believe the controls/wiring of a nitrous setup to be the most important and time-consuming part. That being said, here are some lingering questions:
1. Diodes: For electronics protection from solenoids, can I wire just one diode from power to ground leads (ie - diode "pointing" to ground) on the pair (fuel and nitrous) or do I need a separate diode for each?
2. Diode: Should another diode be placed across the purge solenoid?
3. Clutch switch: Since a clutch switch is available, should I use it or is the TPS WOT switch sufficient?
4. Plate types: Seems there are two types of plate systems: "peripheral port" (HSW, Zex) and then, for lack of a common term, I'll say "sector port" (Nitrous Outlet, Cold Fusion, Dynotune). All things being equal, ie - jets of a desired size located on the plate, are there any reasons to not consider one or the other?
5. Nitrous line routing: Seems to me, getting the routing out of the interior is a good idea, but maybe there are some pragmatic reasons to not worry about that and just run it inside. Is there a generally considered correct way?
6. RPM window setting: First I plan on a first gear lockout, and then, since my LS3's power curve is pretty typical for an OEM EFI manifolded engine: pretty flat around 6000+ rpm, and with 3.91 gears, I shift at first around 4500 rpm, then 2nd on up shift around 6400-6600 rpm, which drops to about 5000-5100 rpm after a shift. Question: given all that, what would most recommend the 2 RPM window settings be?
7. Timing. I've spent quite a bit of track and dyno time getting these optimized. Just 1 to 1.5 degrees more in any cell of the high octane timing map at the high load row and the engine will knock. How much timing should I retard for a 75 and then 100 shot settings? I get the feeling I should err on the side of another 1 or 2 on top of the recommended 2 per 50.
8. Fuel. Given the 473/437 dyno numbers, is 93 octane fine or should I add a bottle of Torco to be safe?
9. Fuel feed line from body to rail. While I went ahead and bought one from Nitrous Outlet, to err on the side of safety, what is the deal with that OEM line? are there possible flow rate problems with it that cause people to replace it with a -6 sized hose?
10. 75 or 100 shot on top of 473 rwhp. That's the goal. Any potential issues given the system I'm building: window/TPS w/LNC timing retard controlling some plate system with a -6 fuel feed to the OEM rail?
Thanks in advance for any help. For reference, here's my arrived at timing map (green line). Following that is a plot of the HP Tuners Delivered Torque calculation, which I used to verify I was going in the right direction as far as add/removing timing. Yes, I hate to admit it, but I'm an engineer by day LOL
I started to type all this out but we are slammed and I keep getting interupted. I will be happy to answer your questions for you. Please call me at the shop. 1-866-648-7637 It will take alot less time than typing.
Thanks
Dave
