Fuel/Air ratio when using Dry kit on stock engine?
12-13-2001, 08:11 PM
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Fuel/Air ratio when using Dry kit on stock engine? Well Wifey bought me a used 5177 with a heater and window switch ($400). Goin' Viper Hunting. <img src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" border="0" alt="[guns]" />
I'm currently running .85-89 02's on a stock engine with 29-31° timing, on factory original plugs (23k mi).
I don't care how much HP it makes, but I don't want to destroy my engine.
1) Should I fatten up the mixture before spraying? Is it really necessary?
2) If I'm only going to do 3-4 Nitrous passes a month (I don't have a cage), do I REALLY need to change plugs?
3) Is there a simple way of pulling 5° timing without reprogramming? Is it necessary?
I'm currently running .85-89 02's on a stock engine with 29-31° timing, on factory original plugs (23k mi).
I don't care how much HP it makes, but I don't want to destroy my engine.
1) Should I fatten up the mixture before spraying? Is it really necessary?
2) If I'm only going to do 3-4 Nitrous passes a month (I don't have a cage), do I REALLY need to change plugs?
3) Is there a simple way of pulling 5° timing without reprogramming? Is it necessary?
12-13-2001, 08:54 PM
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Re: Fuel/Air ratio when using Dry kit on stock engine? you can pull timing with a resister in the IAC. or just unplug the knock sensors...instant 4 degrees gone. i think the dry kit itself will pull timing as well. change plugs...you really dont want any detonation on that new-ish motor. but oyu could run the stockers. what ever you did to lean out the car (i.e. porting the MAF) will need to be reversed to run safely. no real need, but youll probably want .900-.930 o2s to be safe.
ryan
ryan
12-13-2001, 09:49 PM
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Re: Fuel/Air ratio when using Dry kit on stock engine? Thanks!
I hate to remove my "MicroChips" tuning, but I'll probably have to to be safe.
I'd like to leave my plugs alone as well, but if it would cause detonation, I guess I'll put TR6's in at 0.035". I hope it doesn't hurt my NA performance, because I race AutoX NA, and can't afford to lose any power stock.
I hate to remove my "MicroChips" tuning, but I'll probably have to to be safe.
I'd like to leave my plugs alone as well, but if it would cause detonation, I guess I'll put TR6's in at 0.035". I hope it doesn't hurt my NA performance, because I race AutoX NA, and can't afford to lose any power stock.
12-14-2001, 03:28 AM
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Re: Fuel/Air ratio when using Dry kit on stock engine? Hey Pat.
Your car should adjust the AF ratio richer and pull timing out, but I don't know what the microtuner has done or does to this. If you stay with a smaller shot like 75 I don't think you'll need to change the plugs. If you do get tr6's you prolly only need to gap them like .042 even .044 on a small shot perhaps, then you'll prolly notice no difference in NA performance. It'll prolly even run better with a new plug for awhile.
Plug gap is to prevent spark blowout with higher cylinder pressures generated from something like n2o, correct? Go to narrow for you app and you don't burn the AF mix effeciently go to big and you blow out the spark. The colder plug range is what aids in detonation resistance. Anyways the colonel tech files give you a chart on plug gap recommendations. I think I'm running .040, cause I was a wuss, but its prolly right on target now.
Anyways My car pulls timing and richens AF on the juice so maybe yours will too. I'd be safe and do the virgin spray runs on a dyno, with a wideband o2, and some 100octane for good measure, that way you really know whats going on and its the safest you can go. Get ATAP logs with those runs too so you can cross-reference.
We better start calling your car 'Master Splinter' or 'Rat Fink' because is not just gonna be the plain 'ratmobile' anymore <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> .
Your car should adjust the AF ratio richer and pull timing out, but I don't know what the microtuner has done or does to this. If you stay with a smaller shot like 75 I don't think you'll need to change the plugs. If you do get tr6's you prolly only need to gap them like .042 even .044 on a small shot perhaps, then you'll prolly notice no difference in NA performance. It'll prolly even run better with a new plug for awhile.
Plug gap is to prevent spark blowout with higher cylinder pressures generated from something like n2o, correct? Go to narrow for you app and you don't burn the AF mix effeciently go to big and you blow out the spark. The colder plug range is what aids in detonation resistance. Anyways the colonel tech files give you a chart on plug gap recommendations. I think I'm running .040, cause I was a wuss, but its prolly right on target now.
Anyways My car pulls timing and richens AF on the juice so maybe yours will too. I'd be safe and do the virgin spray runs on a dyno, with a wideband o2, and some 100octane for good measure, that way you really know whats going on and its the safest you can go. Get ATAP logs with those runs too so you can cross-reference.
We better start calling your car 'Master Splinter' or 'Rat Fink' because is not just gonna be the plain 'ratmobile' anymore <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> .
