Just adjusted FPSS and I think I need some help...
#1
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I am not sure if I did it correctly. This is what I did:
Connect positive lead of multimeter(mm) to the ground wire of the FPSS.
Connected the negative lead of the mm to a ground bolt.
With car running turned FPSS CW all the way...the mm read ~12V.
Then I turned the FPSS CCW till the mm went to 0V, then turned the FPSS back(CW) about a 1/4turn.
Does this sound correct?
[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: Ghost SS ]</p>
Connect positive lead of multimeter(mm) to the ground wire of the FPSS.
Connected the negative lead of the mm to a ground bolt.
With car running turned FPSS CW all the way...the mm read ~12V.
Then I turned the FPSS CCW till the mm went to 0V, then turned the FPSS back(CW) about a 1/4turn.
Does this sound correct?
[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: Ghost SS ]</p>
#2
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Car was at idle? This wont work from my experience. As soon as you hit the N20 the fuel pressue will drop about 1-2psi turning off your system (Mine is a dry system). The way I found to do mine was go buy a 12-14v LED about 6-10 feet of wire..
1) Lay the LED under the windshield wiper,
2) Take a piece of wire from the ground of the FPSS to the led.
3) The other end of the LED run to ground with the left over wire.
4) Make a WOT pass. Adjust the screw until the light does NOT come on.
5) Turn Counter Clockwise 1/4 turn until light comes back on.
6) Give another 1/4 to 1/2 turn after the light comes on.
Doint this at night works better because you can see the LED better. I turned it clockwise until the light would not turn on to make sure it worked and thought it would be best for calibration.
1) Lay the LED under the windshield wiper,
2) Take a piece of wire from the ground of the FPSS to the led.
3) The other end of the LED run to ground with the left over wire.
4) Make a WOT pass. Adjust the screw until the light does NOT come on.
5) Turn Counter Clockwise 1/4 turn until light comes back on.
6) Give another 1/4 to 1/2 turn after the light comes on.
Doint this at night works better because you can see the LED better. I turned it clockwise until the light would not turn on to make sure it worked and thought it would be best for calibration.
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So when the allen screw is turned all the way CW should I be reading 12V?
I turn the screw CCW till I am reading 0V then going back CW 1/2turn to get my 12V back. Is that right? It sounds like I am doing it backwards. How is this?
I turn the screw CCW till I am reading 0V then going back CW 1/2turn to get my 12V back. Is that right? It sounds like I am doing it backwards. How is this?
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In a perfect world that would work.
By doing it your way you are setting it to be on at "idle pressure" When you get on it at WOT your pressure will drop slightly (1ps1 maybe) and the N20 will activate, but as soon as the N20 comes on your car will lose more pressue in the fuel rails (Mine dropped about 2-3 PSI on initial hit, 1psi constant) as it is getting more oxygen and the computer will add more fuel for the added oxygen..
NOS told me that 1/4 turn = about .5-1 psi.. If your fuel system works like mine, you would have to back the screw out 3/4 - 1 turn from "idle pressure"..
Hope that makes sense..
By doing it your way you are setting it to be on at "idle pressure" When you get on it at WOT your pressure will drop slightly (1ps1 maybe) and the N20 will activate, but as soon as the N20 comes on your car will lose more pressue in the fuel rails (Mine dropped about 2-3 PSI on initial hit, 1psi constant) as it is getting more oxygen and the computer will add more fuel for the added oxygen..
NOS told me that 1/4 turn = about .5-1 psi.. If your fuel system works like mine, you would have to back the screw out 3/4 - 1 turn from "idle pressure"..
Hope that makes sense..